Steve

Unique auto sports are selling nittos now, at least they have them on their site.

It could help, depending on the back pressure being generated by the turbine and manifold and of course the rest of the exhaust system. Most Jap engines' heads of late seem to flow around 95% efficiency from what I have read, so the benefits would be minimal. More to be had from cams and timing. Once again though if you increase overlap, it may rob you of power if you have excessive back pressure causing exhaust gas to revert in to the cylinders. No substitute for a well flowing manifold and a correctly matched turbine housing, front pipe, cat and cat back. I have just purchased a 0.87 turbine housing for my turbo, I expect boost to be a few hundred rpm later, but should pull alot harder. Less back pressure also means you can run more adv timing. Once the cams go in, and adj exh cam wheel, it should bring boost on earlier by 300+rpm, so the effect of the larger housing will be negated from that point, just give me better top end:)

Here is another thought, what effect would moving the greater part of the mass of the harmonic dampener to the centre of the wheel? Would it still be able to dampen harmonics as effectively? or is this reliant on where the mass of the wheel is located relative to the centre?

Give Enrico a cigar - hit the nail on the head. If there were no benefit, why bother lightening the flywheel. Also all the trouble companies go to developing lightweight wheels would be wasted, and switching off your air con would do bugger all. Peak hp figure only wins competitions on dynos, not on roads:) thanks for the physics lessons though, quite interesting. Do you have any formulas that could be applied to accelleration?

I still think the protest park in on King William st is a goer - that'll sort em - get a bit of media attention:) Polititians hate negative press:p

to use RX7 injectors you will need to replace the plenum. GTR pump is only good for around 250rwkw, so if you use this pump you will not need to upgrade the injectors. oilcoolers, so many optoins. if you dont want to spend a fortune there is probably two ways I can think of: 1. get a grex one with sandwich plate and built in thermostat - cost around $650 delivered - only a 10 (or 13) row cooler, so ok but not optimal. 2. buy a serck or mocal cooler (34 row on special at GCG for $275 delivered - supposedly the one nismo used for its N1 cars), then buy a sanwich plate for around $50 (mocal in uk can build the thermostat into the sandwich plate - investigating that option currently and will update), inline thermostat (also called an oilstat) around $80, fittings can be bought from pirtek or enzed for around $4-6 each x 8, hose is around $10/m for internal braid rated at 2000psi max - probably need around 2.5m to be on the safe side (havent measured it yet), then you will need aluminium strap (40mmx3mm seems ok) at around $5 per metre - I could only find it in 4m lenghts, but you may be able to find offcuts at a salvage yard. Probably need to add a few dollars for decent nuts and bolts and you are done. Option 2, although a bit more stuffing around and you dont get pretty stainless braided lines (to wear holes in anything they touch:)), is definately a better option from a cooling and cost point of view.

and you should never regap platinums from what I have heard, it is such a thing coat of platinum that 9 chances out of 10 you will stuff them.

On stock ECU? and to clarify do you mean check engine light?

It hears vibrations. more sensitive to the adjacent pistons, but it will detect from all of them, depending of course on the amplitude of the detonation. You can still hear knock (although some people, it appears, cant) I have found the power fc detects it before I can hear it. You can get aftermarket knock detectors that just tap into the signal from the knock sensors as well. A really good idea if you get management without knock warning.

Just retune the bloody thing. A good cooler will make a pretty huge difference to AF ratios. The air will be denser, therefore mixtures leaner = more detonation. Usually when you get an aftermarket ecu tuned the AF ratios will be set with minimal tolerance to change. The new cooler is providing a better cooling therefore denser charge air, there fore more detonation. Either that or its a shit cooler and you are getting very warm air through - but I doubt it:D Either way - get it tuned. And it probably wouldnt hurt to do your fuel pump at the same time, just to make sure. Its pretty disapointing when you get a car on a dyno for a tune and then have to start winding back boost because the fuel system cant cope.

the phantom, do you believe there would be benefit from replacing the other pulleys on the engine? v's negative effects?

And full boost is? and what size turbine housing? I think realistically, with stock manifold, the best you could expect would be 14lbs by around 4-4.5krpm, but it really does depend alot on the turbine housing size - ie fit the smallest you can whilst not getting too much back pressure, or causing compressor surge. This unfortuneately is usually accomplised by trial and error. That is quite a large turbo for a 2L

..... and what exhaust mods, adj cam gear AND what exactly do you mean by spool? Its a bit vague. Do you mean starts to make boost? Makes 10lbs, makes 14lbs etc. HKS GT30 with 0.61 turbing housing and 84 trim exhaust wheel on my RB25 made around 1 bar at around 3krpm, the interesting thing is that once it gets to around 8lbs the turbo spools very quickly, so quickly that from 8lbs to 14.5 is only a couple of hundred rpm, to 1.2bar isnt alot more, but I also have a tuned length ceramic coated manifold, but my exhaust is pretty restrictive (quiet). Lots of buts.

Isnt Matlowth running around 340rwkw with stock head? I still cant get my head around a vavle dropping because of a particular hp - how so??????

If you wanted a metric version of psi, just use kg/cm2 - I Think its 14.5 to the bar:) close enough to psi.

some dynos use hp some kw Also, ps is the metric of hp and quite often the two get confused - eg japanese 208rwkw or 280ps, quite often referred to as 280hp So why the concern? Does it really make a difference? Suppose it depends on what people are used to, but traditionally hp is something that is recognised world wide. The US is a big influence too I suppose, they still use hp.

300 on a properly set up in shoot out mode dyno. The japanese run rb25s all day every day with 300rwkw on stock internals. I have this from several sources, not from publications, but from people I know who have lived in japan and are into performance cars. In WA they have built a reliable 300rwkw rb25 on stock internals. MattR off this forum has had the same power from a stock bottome end, without bottom end dramas. JMS R33 runs well over that power on stock bottom end (up to 446rwkw in one instance) Ben Ellis of HPI has run 295 rwkw with stock bottom end. I have made 256 at 1 bar without even the slightest hint of detonation, even winding the boost up to 1.2bar still not a sign of detonation (just no traction, so I wound it down again) Any engine if treated poorly can be destroyed, if you are sensible, dont bounce off the revlimiter for extended periods, monitor the knock sensor closely - not a problem. Detonation tends to be the biggest enemy of most engines, by keeping it in check, 300rwkw is very realistic.

300rwkw approx

What cat are you running? Also, as mentioned get a partition. then do front mount, then management with some more boost. Cats seem to be overlooked a bit, make sure it is a good highflow cat. It is amazing how restrictive exhausts can be, I had an N1 style system, it was too loud so I swapped to a Nismo one and lost heaps (not on dyno, but from driving) - spool up was later and it was more sluggish response.

I took my stock plugs out at 50,000 to drop a heat range and drop the gap to 0.8. They were in ok condition, but definately showed signs of wear - not just a little, they were well overdue for a change. I put in copper plugs (NGK BCPR6ES, 0.08mm gap) and they worked fine. They were just replaced when I fitted a larger turbo, and the dyno operator used iridiums. He reasoned that the finer electrode provided a more consistant spark over copper, and he also droped another heat range. I dont think the extra cost is warranted, compare $3 per plug and $18.50 per plug. The coppers were still in quite good condition after 10,000 (better than the iridiums at 50,000) - but at around the cost of 1 iridium plug for a full set, you can change them every 10,000 and still be better off. It never hurts to change the plugs regularly.

Must be someone out there who could use this? Or I will trade for W H Y.

bump

yakuza, I would recommend a full ecu, or interceptor like the e-manage. Microtech doesnt have knock detector, so I wouldnt run it personally. That little flashing light on the dash has saved my bacon a few time I am sure. 350rwhp is fine on stock internals. The reason I would recommend management over just a SAFC is that being able to alter timing is a big advantage when trying to keep detonation at bay, rather than just fuel - and will mean a much better power delivery and therefore driveability. You can pick up a power fc for around $1000-$1100, controller for around $400 (not that it is necessary, but a very handy thing to have). And if you ever want to sell it, you will get close to what you paid back, no probs. There have been a few threads that go into the virtues of different ecus, doing a search would probably open your eyes a bit:)

Bloody FC datalogit bloody - how many friggin years do you have to wait! You can do a good tune off the hand controller, just takes a bit longer. Bloody good score one the power fc coming with the engine package BTW, probably save 1k+ on having to buy it yourself.

They were an option, check with your local Nissan dealer.