Steve

Not quite, I want reliability:)

Settings, idle:)

Vendetta, pm sent.

You shouldnt have lest, why did you lest (lol) But seriously, they took it back out - would have been even more interesting in the wet:D

Buy the s15, there is no choice:D

Rezz, I cant pm you as your box is full:) If you have emptied it check the sent items folder as this sometimes catches people out. My e-mail is [email protected] Cheers

Well for a piece 1.2m wide by 0.5m high, enough for a front bar and some left over, about $40 - I am not making any profit on this, just trying to cut my losses having to buy such a large sheet:). My front bar is designed to have mesh attached, some use wire fiberglassed around the hole on the inside of the bar and you just put the mesh over the wire and bend it into place - others already have screw type attachment from behind. But you can also use body filler (bog) to attach it as it sets like concrete or you could use sikaflex - no way that will come off by itself.

Hi, I have some extruded mesh to suit front bars available, it has larger than your normal mesh hole, to allow better air flow while still keeping birds, rocks and small kids from your intercooler or cold air duct. Mesh hole size is approx 10mm x 5mm. I had to buy a whole sheet to get some for my front bar, so I now have alot left over. If anybody is looking for mesh in Adelaide, contact me:) Cheers Steve

PS, cant wait to see a piccy of these deep dish 17x9.5s

Hi Rezz, good luck with the venture - I am sure it will go well:) While I am here, I have been looking everywhere for an oil filter adaptor and/or filter remote locator (annodised preferrabley), that can be used with an oil cooler and has a built in thermostat (or oilstat) It is driveing me nuts as they just dont seem avaible anywhere! Any chance you have seen or can get? Also looking for an overfloor brace that goes between the seat belt points in a skyline, doluck make them but the are bloody expensive. Sorry I couldnt wait for the website, I am just getting excited. Cheers Steve

The original R33 rear strut brace should fit up to bolts already in place - all the R33 have them, so no drilling should be necessary. As for tensioning, I dont know if this is right or not, but as my alignment was done without the bar in place, once it was fitted I just set it tight, but didnt over tighten it. The bar is supposed to stop flex, so theoretically if you overtighten it, you may cause flex in the opposite direction. It is a brace after all, not a tensioner:) My 0.02

Go the S15, awesome car, SR20 eng pulls hard and responds well to minor mods (exhaust, boost) - then fit some decent sus, or better still buy one that has the sus done, and the bloody things handle like go carts - excellent cars.

Bridgestone Eagers, used to have the writing back in the 80s, not sure if they still exist:)

hehe, just noticed what I posted - what I meant was you need another set, other than Nittos, for drift:D

Sounds like a very interesting proposition, looking forward to the results.

MattR, did you end up getting the spin in JMSs red R33?

I checked with Tpt SA and they told me they dont care what state the reports are done as long as they are by a Chartered Professional Engineer, and that for an upgraded turbo it was necessary to have an IM240 test done, the only places that I am aware of that do it in Aust is Ford, Mitsubishi and RTA in NSW. RTA are free emissions testing, just ring them up and book your car in. The vehicle still needs to be inspected in SA though. It is interesting that the engineers in SA recognised by Tpt SA are also recognised by VicRoads and RTA NSW, so it would appear that it isnt just SA that will except mods engineered interstate. Just that they charge exorbitant prices (here). So can you explain what exactly a Chartered Professional Engineer is? And when are you going to become one so we can all get our mods done (move to SA, you will clean up:D)

Good the hear there is hope! At least if your not loosing traction all the time, tread wear 'may' be a bit less. A tread wear of 300 seems rediculously high??? Did JMS have any more Nittos sitting around? (275/40/17s;)) Just need to get another set now for dorfito.

Merli, nice results, where did your timing gear end up set out of interest? I already have a HKS GT3037 turbo, larger injectors...blah blah I have the cams (256/8.8in, 2649.0exh) sitting at home waiting patiently, but if the cam gear wasnt going to make bugger all difference, that $200 dollars saved, so better in my pocket than HKS's Never hurts to be sure.

And BOVs dont have gasses, they only vent charge air, ie air compressed by the turbocharger.

Where do the crank case gasses go when under boost? All cars create blow by, whether only a little or alot. If you have a look at the two connectors on top of the rocker cover you will see that they go to the intake, after the AFM, as under boost the gasses cannot go into the plenum for obvious reasons, which is prevented by the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve. If the gasses did not go into the intake, or were vented to atmosphere, the crankcase could pressurise and cause all sorts of problems (like blowing gaskets and seals - not pretty) It was only in the early seventies that cars started being required to comply with emissions standards, and the gasses could not longer be allowed to vent to atmosphere. If the rest of you emissions control is correctly plumbed up, there is no physical way you can stop some crank case gasses getting into the charge air. It is this charge air that vents when the BOV lifts, hence atmo is not street legal. The requirements for cars to comply with emissions standards are the same in every state.

Another interesting thing to note is that the RB25DE is supposed to run VCT until 5700rpm, so perhaps someone put the wrong NVCS chips in at the factory by accident and created these 'freak powered' R33s....hehehehe

I was waiting to find this: http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html or something similar until I posted:) NVCS comes in just over 1000 rpm and cuts out at 4500rpm on RB25DET. the best way I have heard of optimising NVCS is by doing two runs on a dyno, one with the NVCS switched on, one with the NVCS unplugged. Where the lines cross it the best point to switch off. easy:D

Thanks for all the replies, sounds like it will definately be worth giving it a go then. No great loss in trying. I will post up the results (just waiting on my plenum) when I get it all fitted and dynoes. Sidewaymambo, please do post let us know.

You have to be a Chartered Proffesional Engineer, in the automotive field - I was under the impressions that to be such required membership in the IE Aust. Are SAE-A members Chartered Professional Engineers too? I didnt think they were or they would be members of IEAust too?