Steve

Hi, I am after a housing to suit a HSK3037. I currently have the 0.61 and would like to try a 0.73 or 0.87 just to compare the difference. If anybody has a spare one to sell, please let me know. I am in adelaide.

Guys are making 215 at 1bar on stock turbo, unless the dyno is reading 30kw+ low (which I doubt), I think you got problems. But at the end of the day, if you are happy all is good. BTW with 230 at the rears, I was getting wheelspin all the way through second and into 3rd with 255/40/17 revspecs, 0.5deg neg camber and pineapples.

Advan 01, I would advise not increasing the boost much until you get a front mount (if you do get one that is). The stock cooler has a pretty big pressure drop, and as you measure boost from the plenum, you may read 10psi, but acutally be making 16+ - not good. As the stock interwarmer does not remove much heat from the charge air the risk of detonation is greatly increased too. With a full 3" system you probably already have around 9psi. The problem with the stock turbo is the ceramic turbine wheel, which is prone to shatter when under too much load. The load not only comes from exhaust pressure but also from the impeller trying to compress the air as well, so it cops it from both sides. I have always been told to not increase boost unless I have a FMIC, and then only to go to about 12.5lbs (0.85bar). With 0.85 bar I made 203rwkw, so I was pretty happy. I never went above this and the turbo lived a happy life until I sold it and it was still in excellent condition. I have heard alot of stories of guys killing their turbos at 1 bar (on an R33), doesnt always happen, depends on how long they boost it for at that pressure, and what sort of condition the turbo is in. But you cant guarantee it will last either. I would recommend keeping boost to about 9-10psi on stock cooler, get a decent front mount, then go up to 12.5bar or so. With the stock cooler I doubt it would make a huge difference anyways between 10 and 12 psi.

Have a look at some of the back issues of HPI - did a build up on a R43 GT-T, and they used a high flow for approx 230kw(from memory) at the rears. I believe the NEO has a larger range of VVT than the R33, also the cooler on a GT-T is different to the GTS-t (presumably alot better) It would be quite conceivable that with a better tune, better cooler would easily make an extra 20kw. BUT I think tumso is looking at the DE? Tumso, you will also have to get an ECU upgrade if you change engines.

No, whats wrong with that? Already boosted to 1.2bar without a hint of detonation (or traction:)) Once the gaget is in boost baby boost.

I am not an advocate of people not being chased. Chase the pricks, cos if you dont you are just encouraging them. Send them to gaol, give them huge fines - that will make them think. It seems strange that crimes against society seem to attract relatively minor fines/penalties, yet bullshit things (car too low, turbo timer fitted, travelling 3km over the limit) and you cop a decent fine?? Seems to me if you want to be a dick head, you will get treated with kidd gloves, normal joe, get treated like a criminal. What ever happened to getting a warning if you were caught a few kms over the speed limit? Happens to everyone. They (polititians) are just money hungry, and yet when it comes to minority groups (real criminals) they seem to get away pretty easy alot of the time.

If you are worried about spending too much on petrol, why are you ready to spend all that extra on an engine???? Sorry, just doesnt add up. An RB25DE shoud fit no probs and with the money you save from the conversion (vs RB25 NEO) you will be able to afford the petrol. So is the RB25NEO more economical than an RB20DE? and by how much. Really if you want economical, buy another RB20DE, they are as cheap as chips. Even an RB25DE can be picked up for around 1K in aust, but as the NEO engine is a bit rarer, I wouldnt have a clue what they are worth, but I am sure they are more expensive again.

They will have more on the 15th.

thanks INASNT, I dont think I will be running big boost either, esp as the internals are stock, so I am ony planning on going to perhaps 1.5-1.6bar. Never know what the future holds though once I blow up this bottom end:D

[email protected]??? WTF, something very wrong there, you can get that out of a stock turbo on .85bar.

Dont forget T-man (aka Tim, TIMMMAYYY), without him this probably wouldnt be happening! Beer must be cold and wet;)

:D

Are you driving, should I be scared???

Here is something else for you to think about, 5 and 6 GET MORE AIR than 1 on a forward facing plenum (thus lean out and cause troubles). The air gets backed up (for a better way of putting it) at the back of the plenum when using a front facing throttle body. Next time you get to have a look at the HKS drag car, you will notice it has a front facing plenum. HKS realise that 5 and 6 get more air so they flow test the injectors and put richest to 6, next to 5 and so on. Why would they use a front facing plenum if it was better to use a side facing one? They are only interested in making the most out of performance. You can also argue that multiple throttle bodies give better response, they do, but less air in the pipe work gives better throttle response too (and less heat soak from under bonnet temps - as minor as that would be) It all adds up. Sure you can say, but if I make the pipe work thicker and reduce its length - but that would hold true if you made the pipe work thicker with the stock plenum. Bottom line, if the pipework is the same width but differnent lenght, the shorter will hold less air? how could it not. If you create a forward facing plenum with the angle of join from the throttle body such that it directs air toward the front cylinders, that can help offset the richer state of the these cylinders. If you shunt it in from the side, 3 and 4 will always be leaner. I think this is what gradenko was getting at. That is how I interprated it anyway? If you have a look at the design of the cut and shut plenum gradenko posted, you will notice it follows this philosophy. This is of course if only using one thottle body instead of 6. There are miriad possibilities when performing a mod, so the fewer the variables, the more indicatitve the results will be in a test type situation. So far, I have never heard anyone say fitting a front facing plenum made my car worse to drive, I have only heard positive results. I definately agree that 6 throttle bodies do it better than one, but I cannot argue with people that have changed to a forward facing plenum and found better results - too many of them. It could be argued that its a waste of money, but I would suggest that every body has different driving style, and likes cars to drive differently. Two people can get in the same car, one love it the other hate it. Please forgive me if I am wrong here, it is sometimes very hard to gleen intention from a post, but it seems (the vain of your post) you have closed mind to the whole idea, a closed mind cannot learn anything.

What an absolute load of hot c0ck. Some people it would seem really speak crap. If it was illegal, I doubt very much the car would be in the yard. If the car complies with ADRs, its legal - that simple. Power only really becomes an issue when you start putting on larger turbos, or increasing capacity of the engine. If that were the case you would have to get an engineers report to say the vehicle has the braking capacity and chassis rigidity to handle the power, as well as emissions testing etc and then it would be legal. There is a guy selling an S13 silvia with an RB25 and twin 2530s, with all the fruit to support its 400rwhp(+?) - and it has an ADR compliance plate for all its mods, and legally registered in NSW. Check the for sale section, his nick is Nismo King. Seriously, everything else being equal, but the nicest car with mods. If you dont like the mods, post up in the swap section, and you will be able to make some dollars. But best way, take them for a drive, whichever one drives the best, buy it.

Nice work, will be really interested to see the results of this one. Cheers

Nah, that is what the windows for. Summary so far: BYO BBQ is in the car park, we have to get in and park off a section Breakfast at 9 Drift starts at 10 Lunch time BBQ And as many beers as you feel appropriate in between and after BBQ is free, but if you want to donate a beer, or bring something along feel free. Covered so far is: Eggs, bacon, assholes, snags, onions, bread, sauce and oil BBQ (T-man, you have a table for prep?) BBQ tools T-man, do you need chopping board? Anything else you can think of? Dean, what time were you heading up, cos I was thinking probably need to get there 8:30ish to set up?

I've got one to go in when I do the cams:) Where did you get it from? Did you end up getting the second hand one that D1 have? So how much earlier does your $350 turbo come on now?

And eggs:) and dont forget the bacon T-man

I can get bread and sauce pretty cheap

Somebody help, BOOSTD has lost it:p

I should have done this before posting, but I found out how is goes: Vacuum/boost directly to the bottom connector on the gate. Tee into this line and connect to NC (normally closed) then from the com line of the soleniod to the top connection on the gate:) I hope the solenoid (boost control is power fc) know that I have changed things around?

Well I am working on the theory that what was promised wasnt delivered. I am buggered if I am goint to pay someone to remove it and then have to pay someone to fit it again. I have already had to pay for freight to return it once (I ordered and payed for this plenum 3 months before taking delivery - at the time he told me it would only take 2 weeks to make - yet it wasnt right?) and then to be told I need to modify the TB for a TPS, and to have vacuum block made up. My car has spent too much time off the road, I dont like having to pay for insurance and rego on a car I can drive because someone else didnt sort their product correctly. Yes accidents happen, but twice is once too often. Mark says that he has made 10s of these plenums, yet they still arent right??? He also told me their is a high demand for his plenums so there should not be any problem selling this one, especially as their is a wait associated with procuring one. I paid money for a product, got a faulty one (twice) so enough is enough. This has already cost me more than it should have if what was promised was delivered the FIRST time ,even more the SECOND time, I will not allow a third end of story I dont live in sydney, so its not a case of just popping in so it can be sorted. Anyway, its purely acedemic until the plenum gets returned. If it comes to it, as I said, the legals system can sort it out, doesnt bother me cos it wont cost me a cent in legal fees, and court fees are bugger all. I dont think I am ever going to try another local product, I was tempeted to try one of Micks plenums, but decided to just go the tried, tested and true products from Japan. this is starting to drift away from the vain of the thead, it was never intended to be a lets see if Hills will refund, just a this is what I experienced thread, so enough said.

Hi, Just wondering how people are plumbing up external wastegates to their EBC. Mine is currently plumbed as it was with the internal gate, except the boost line from the soleniod, NO, (that was going to the internal wastegate) is going to the lower of the two hose connectors on the wastegate, the top one is not connected to anything at all. NC is open to atmo, as is the hosetail connector on the top of the wastegate. I was wondering if anybody knows how else to plumb the solenoid and wastegate? as it just doesnt look right with the open connector off the top of the wastegate. Also, what is the effect of the different plumbing styles on boost control? Thanks in advance Steve

This cruise is going to be a monster!