Steve

of course, you know better than simon.. silly me and as for your comments about cavitation, perhaps you know better than encyclopedias, dictionaries etc - unless you are talking about 'a different situation' - just like simon http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation there are dozens more definitions available on the net too http://www.google.com.au/search?hl=en&...ation&meta= ALL talk about fluids - perhaps there is a reason for that? perhaps we all need to go back to uni - except for you of course

I agree completely, knowing nothing of the dealer, or having never dealt with him - I would have confidence doing so having read the other thread I don't know why a mod would shut the other thread, unless Slide asked it? (cant understand why he would though?)

http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_1457/article.html

AndrewD, perhaps you should do some research, instead of listening to BOV salesmen and the rest of the speculation posted on interenet forums. Pray tell why the compressor surge is harmful? it isnt, the turbo is not a positive displacement pump and the fact is that turbos actually speed up when they surge, as there is no more load on the compressor wheel. I have tried with and without, have just upgraded my turbo after nearly two years and 10,000kms, with a large amount of track work - NO bov and the turbo is fine perhaps the engineers who have chosen to run NO bov in the past know more than you (hard as it may be for you to accept) Perhaps there is also a reason Mazda state in their workshop manual for turbo engines that the bov is there for emissions purposes - absolutely no metion of protecting turbochargers from imaginary gremlins lastly, if you dont want to listen to others on here, perhaps you will listen to the words of Simon Gishus, who actually has done research, not just read articles on the internet like you From Auto speed article the article does go on, but the above sums up nicely the fact that you AndrewD, should practice what you preach, and not just come on here and sprout your psuedo technical (and flawed) babble, and refer to people as 'idiots' /rant

probably why there is 'all this talk of rebuild' that has been happening - the question was asked perhaps some of the people on here should write to nissan and get them to update their workshop manual, as you seem to know better the compression is within spec, just, to completely ignore this, and not keep in mind that the engine MAY be ready for rebuilding in the near future, could be asking for trouble. Anybody wonder why alot of tuners compression test engines before they try an lean on them on a dyno? would those that beleive the engine is 'absolutely fine' care to enlighten us all on at what compression an engine is getting tired? and would you pay just as much for an engine that is at the bottom of the published compression range as you would for one that is showing compression at the top end of the range? (not talking about built or decompressed engines here) GTRAAH, as I said to you in pm, make sure you are using a good FRESH oil (15W50 would be my recommendation for RB engines) and redo the test, I think you will find the results will vary, as too many people use the wrong oils, and dont service their engines often enough.

is he located inWA? as I would prefer to sell locally cheers

***** sold pending payment ***** Selling Veilside Dish rims, 3 peice rim, 18 x 9 x 10 + 22 offset all round (gtr offset) - very rare rims, made new on order only afaik they are in excellent condition as they have just been polised and centres sandblasted and resprayed selling cos they are just too nice to drift on, and I need drift wheels $2500 ono or will swap for some drift teks (or URAS NS-01) 17 x 9.5 +15 plus cash adjust pickup, located in willetton WA

New engine should read around 170psi, old engine 130psi, below 130 - serious problems your engine is a bit tired, but not dead yet.

Nissan manual states compression on standard RB26DETT should be between approx 130 and 170 psi (9.0-12.0kg/cm2),with a maximum variation of ~ 14psi (1kg) You could get slightly higher compression by using a heavier oil, but long term fix is to rebuild engine

Anyone else see a problem here? running a bigger turbo on stock management/ecu/injectors/fuel pump can be a real recipe for disaster. Get management sorted, get it on a dyno and check your AF ratios are correct BEFORE you boost your car - unless you have enough spare cash around for a rebuild/engine swap

any news yet?

PS, would consider swap for drifttek (or URAS) 17 x 9.5 +15 rims (or similar) plus cash adjust

Selling Veilside Dish rims, 3 peice rim, 18 x 9 x 10 + 22 offset all round (gtr offset) they are in excellent condition as they have just been polised and centres sandblasted and resprayed $2500 ono located in willetton

if you bent valves, you may need to replace valve stem seals and valve guides, reface the valves. skim the head (cos its alloy) etc If you are willing to send them to perth, I can highly recommend Heinz engineering - do excellent work (and get em to give a port whilst they have em) good luck

fark, hope nobody 'innocent' got hurt

ran ~320rwkw for ages, and thrashed the shit out of it almost daily... just decompressed the engine slightly (8.6:1 CR) with a hks 1.6mm headgasket and all the usual mods - keep up a good supply of fuel and get a decent tune. never skipped a beat.

Fronts +42 offset, rears +38 - the came off a supra, currently fitted to my S13, with spacers front (included if needed) and some guard pumping As the title says, I have some rims for sale. Fronts have R comp federal 595 RS rubber, rears are nexen, both have heaps of tread left (the R comps cost $350 each) contact: post here or pm price: chasing $1800 with tyres, less without Pictures: I have only cleaned one for the photos, the rest are a bit dirty sorry fronts would probably need polishing to look their best, rears were polished around 6 months ago for around $150 a peice by alliance rim repairs

Different workshops hold different liscences under RAWS, so it will depend on which car you want to bring in. you can also get compliance done over east, if there is no one local who holds the applicable approval. Be aware though, that getting a car complied and liscenced is different, you may still need to make repairs after it has been complied. Carwestech do cars under the old 15 year rule (you must already have approval to import by now, or its too late as the rule is being abolished), call Raheem on 0422 993 143, he can also comply S13 under RAWS, and others I beleive (R32, 33. 34 I think), and get them roadworthy for registration - VERY reasonable prices. I beleive he will be doing S15 real soon too.

show off

Seriously, find a box of tissues If you reckon your car needs 2-3K of work, then it should have been defected If you dont want to keep your car in a roadworthy condition, dont drive it If you have a problem with a defect, and dont understand what the problem is, go to the pits and ask them If you were defected for not good reason, the inspector at the pits will tell you so THEN have a bitch - at put it in writing to your local mp, cos seriously, whinging on a forum just makes you seem like a whinger.

what do you think of the job? pm me if you think its not appropriate to post here cheers Steve

I would argue that any workshop will 'rip you off' there are heaps of competant workshops in perth, do a search, its been covered heaps of times and yeah, turbo swap on GTR takes some time, even if its a straight bolt on (I assume you have a kit?) If not, you need to allow for things like gaskets (that may need replacing), studs snapping (hopefully not, rare, but it does happen), silicone pipes and clamps and to top up your coolant. If you want a quality job, dont try and get work done down to a price, cos in the end, workshops gotta make a few bucks or they wont last long.

Theoretically, the FPR will keep the pressure constant, in reality it does usually result in a slight increase in rail pressure and you car will be running a little rich For the few $$$ it costs to get a car on a dyno, and check your AF ratios, it isnt a bad thing, alternately, put a fuel pressure guage on there, and see what its reading - should be 2.55kg at idle, 3.05kg at atmosphere. Most decent workshops will have a fuel pressure guage, will take maybe 15 mintues to check the pressure, if that.

$900 for a new cat back and you reckon its too expensive I swear, some people shouldnt own nice cars - dont ruin your car by putting cheap crap on it If you cannot afford new, there are some excellent 2nd had systems around, quality systems that work and sound great. Alot of people will argue, but I dont give a shit, I see so many cars nowadays with cheapo exhausts/wheels/etc - and it turns what could be a nice car into a bucket of crap If you cant afford to do mods well, dont do em at all - otherwise you will just de-value your car. If you want a quiet exhaust (well relatively) the Nismo 80mm with a centre muffler, and oval resonator on the back is quiet, not sure what model sorry. Otherwise, find a nice flowing exhaust, and add resonators until you get the sound you want. But please, dont fark up a good car by putting crap on it. (and cheap stuff off e-bay is 99% garbage)

Hi all, If anyone has any cheap 18" tyres for sale, please let me know - but they must have legal tread the tyres need to fit on 9 and 10" wide rims, so anything from a 215 up to a 275 would be good, prefer 215s for the front and 235s for the rear though cheers Steve