Steve

ROFL, did you see the attempt at braiding under the bonnet? Too bloody stupid:D Thanks Rob;) keep that rice coming, I love it - always brighten a dull day.

Gradenko, did you just damage the little feet that go over the pintle? cos if you did it would probably be ok to just trim them up and put them back in. I cant see how they could possible do anything but protect the pintle when being inserted into the rail or manifold ( the feet that is). When I put in my sard ones they had no plastic pintle bits at all, just o-rings.

this is purely speculation:)

Probably, but I dont like the idea of any foreign body entering the combustion chamber, could have quite an effect on how the mixtures burn, may produce hot spot or something? bits of plastic residue on the pistons/cylinders cant be good.

Make sure it has HKS cast onto the housings, cos the cores with the 2530 id tag can be bought direct from garrett, but only the cartridge with exhaust wheel. HKS have their own design comp and exh housings, and comp wheel.

Just as long as bits weren't missing, cos then you got to wonder where they went!

Cheeky started it:p

Actually, when the chick coppers have a big set of hairy dusters, your powers are just as relevant as ever, if not more

Air flow resolution will only be an issue if you say tune the car for 1.2 bar, get the mixtures right (using the dyno AF sensor), then when you get the car on the street turn the boost down. Reason is the AFM doesnt know the difference in flow of anything above its max of 5.115V. Bottom line is you will run rich as hell on lower boost. If you decide you dont car and want to run the boost the car is tuned at - it will make no difference.

Roy, squat is all good if you have a solid axle as it transfers weight to where it is needed, but if not, it will cause nothing but dramas.

Thanks Ustasa, the turbo is pretty good, comes on boost early and pulls hard. Unfortuneately I dont have rpm vs boost control. I tried upping the boost to 1.2bar, but I need to get traction sorted a bit better before I can do that again. Even in 4th at 1/4 - 1/3 throttle around 120kph and it stepped sideways. In fact at about 3500 to 4000 I just loose traction even under mild acceleration. Are rpm adjustable boost controllers hard to find? Could you recommend one? I have just got the power fc boost control. I think I may have found a problem with the car. Apart from the fact that the adjustment hasnt been made for the injectors - the guy who tuned it set it up on Infinity throttle body (I have Z32). I spoke to him this arvo and he said he did it because the car seemed to prefer it under power. I am hoping a full retune isnt necessary. I tried to drop the injector setting to 0.67, but the car just wouldnt run. I tried on 0.80 but the same story:(

yeah, I know, I just think its wierd

Does this need to be changed? what does it do exactly? I have checked the O2 F/B in etc, that is to on, is this correct or should I be looking somewhere else? 230rwkw at 1 bar and a very flat torque curve (dyno is here:http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...0554#post490554 ) the power delivery is awesome, very good off boost, and with 1.2bar it is scary on the road:)

bbenny, with the R33, boost cut (stock) is at 12psi, wierd.

Ustasa, I just checked the setting menu, under 'injector' itts all set to 100%. the O2 F/B is set to on in etc Does this mean it will need retuning with injectors set to 67%? It has just had a full tune expressly for the purpose of dialing in the new injectors, and the car goes really well under throttle. Even the knock reading is down and usually doesnt go over 24 even under full boost(1 - 1.2bar) high rpm running. the guy who tuned it said he had pulled a fair bit of timing and has set AF ratios at 11.8:1.

Ustasa, where exactly is this setting? when the injectors first went in I used the correction in the ign/ijn setting, but it doesnt save? I havent checked for closed loop function either - I didnt know there was one:) I only have a rx7 hand controller manual that I downloaded, so I dont know a whole heap about the functions. dont know where I could get a copy of an english manual for R33 do you? Under accelleration or foot completely off the throttle, all is good. It is only under cruise (maintaining a costant speed) or at idle that it seems a bit rough. the stalling thing is only when I come back from hard acceleration and say put the clutch in for a couple of seconds before changing down to stop - if you know what I mean. Its sort of intermittent. This was the case when I first got the car back from tune, but I suppose it is just starting to irritate me a bit:D

Hmm, well when I put on my Z32 I tried to run it without changing the setting in my ecu - idled like shit. Probably becuase the afm delivers different voltage for the same airflow. As the voltage is different, say at 3000rpm and 50% load, the ecu is only recieving a signal that used to be associated 2500rpm @ 30% load, there fore your car will run very lean. As far as I know, boost cut works on boost pressure, not air flow?

Thats NYPD, you live in australia

Whatsisname passed his rego inspection with a autometer single pod on the pillar - but they told him to take off his momo ADR approved steering wheel - go figure

I understand, but if you make sure that you keep record of all instances that you have contact and what was said (I know this sounds a bit over the top, but carry a tape recorder, or even better a video camera:D) and if they step out of line go directly to their supervisor. I think the days where coppers can get away with shit are dwindling - they have to be fully accountable for their actions, no more coverups especially if you have evidence. It is a tough choice, but personally I wouldnt put up with crap on principle. No reason if you arent doing anything wrong that you should be getting hasselled. Hippy, legal lowering height is 350mm from middle of wheel hub to the top of the guard, also no part of the car should be lower than 100mm with (cant rember how many) metres of the axles(applies to larger vehicles) - but it basically means you cant get lower than 100mm. And the car must sit on the rims if the tyre deflates;) Thats from memory anyways. Dont worry about the dump hippy, its sitting waiting for you:)

Nice result, congrats:) On insurance, if you can be careful enough, have you thought about just 3rd party fire and theft? It just means you need to be extra careful driving cos if its your fault your on your own - but, you will get to enjoy the car a while longer and every year that you have the insurance your rating will go up, so in a few years the comprehensive will be cheaper. Just a thought, cos this is how I got myself a rating one many years ago.

Joel, that's bizarre, I mean torque x rpm is power, so if you have more torque at any given rpm power must increase. Perhaps your dyno operator has been messing with correction figures or increasing load to spool the turbo up harder/quicer? Sorry, I am not trying to naysay what you have got on paper, just trying to understand how it happened?

Well, she is a bit rough and lumpy sounding, plus it sits up around 1000-1100 rpm. Once when coming back from revs she died all together. When I picked the car up, she stalled a couple of times, the guy who tuned it said to pull a couple of points out of the appropriate points and see if that helps. Also said he was not able to do cold start properly (I have since fixed that). Just looking at the map, seems to be way too much fuel at idle. I actually pulled it back from 1.11 to 0.70 and it still idled the same, but then got paranoid that I had pulled too much:D so put most of it back in.

Another thought, buy a GTS4, as you will be changing turbo, manifolds etc etc - the cost of converting to turbo wouldnt be much more than fully building a GTSt? About the only extra you may need is to enlarge the sump. How is the rest of the GTS4 driveline compared to GTR? Would it hold?

Hmm, no good. Just a thought, if you can get GTSts so cheap, what is the cost difference to GTR? and what is the compliance cost difference? I cannot say too many bad things about the GTSt, apart from the fact I own one. But, I must agree with franks, there are times a bit more traction would be good. Every time you go through a round of mods, you got to think of new ways to get the power down. Then again, nittos are pretty plentiful over there - they'll get you sorted;) If you know, what is the price of nitto 555 275/40/17s over there. I am currently looking at trying to aquire some and would like to know cost options? Cheers