Steve

Joel, I think you got the power vs gears the wrong way around. A dyno measures power, which is torque in relation to rpm. Torque will be higher in third gear than fourth as there is a gearing advantage.

TIMMAYYY, slam it you know you want to:D Its not an import so you will be safe;)

Well, after close examination of the INJ map on my power fc, I decided that I couldnt understand what was happening, so I wrote down all the load and rpm positions, plotted them, and it still just doesnt seem right? this is with 550cc injectors and Z32 afm - can anybody shed any light on what was done? Does it seem right? It is still not idleing right, and it seems to me that there is way too much fuel in there? Anybody out there share any thoughts? Cheers Steve PS sorry the image is a bit large.

You could try: feeding the throttle a bit slower, get a wheel alignment and try and get the rears as neutral as possible, fit cradle bushes, set sus to hard so you dont sqat (this will change the wheel alignment), warmup the tyres well, buy larger softer rated tyres (Nittos are good), fit an autronic or motec with traction control. Lots of options. And best of all, practice till you find what works well on your car:)

I am not sure about modern cars, but back in the 80s we used to just block the lines off, but leave them connected so it looked like the pollution gear was still in there.

Thats a farken big turbo for a 2.5L, perhaps its time to go 3L - would be perfect:D

and wind your rev limit up to around 8k:)

I think if they said they pulled you over because they saw it was too low, then realised it was you and decided to fine you it would be different

Did you get a badge number? If they are picking you up because they said you put it back on and that it didnt pass....WTF do they know, did they do the inspection themselves? Find out what station they work at, and if you truely believe they have been harrassing you unduely, make a complaint - perhaps next time they will think twice. If you dont get any satisfaction, go and speak to your local polly, they get things hapening;)

pm'ed

nissky, he has a safc so rich down low wont be a problem.

Why so expensive to legalise the car? Lucky you work in a speed shop, then again if it were me I think I would only be taking about $50 home a week cos everything else would be getting spent on mods. I have so much trouble going into a speed shop and not spending money:D

Well I just removed my old dump/front which was mild steel and I wrapped it. Had it fitted about 6-8 months ago, and it is still in perfect condition.

You still after a car? Found a VH that may be worth looking at for $600firm (he originally wanted1k).

BRUTE, so is claude's trim shop joe blow quality or class?

GTR can and do drift. The attessa doesnt work that well that you cant oversteer.

It is part of pollution control. It is located at the front of the engine bay, just next to the radiator on the left hand side of the engine bay.

Check www.d1garage.com they got a couple in there.

If you want 500hp it isnt going to be cheap. To start, if you can pick up a good example with some fruit on it you will probably save a fortune. A totally stock GTSt doesnt go too hard at only 185kw, or about 125rwkw. For 500hp (this is not inlcuding things like wheels and suspension) you will need; Decent turbo, ECU, FMIC, Full exhaust, twin plate clutch, Boost controller, Pod (best to build a partition and CAI as well), Z32 afm, or possibly infinity AFM (unless your management is MAP) you will probably need a new manifold for the turbo, but with adaptors and a bit of grinding, a GT40 could be in place with the stock manifold. but the stock one doesnt flow the best. Injectors - two options, side feed which are expensive, or top feed which are cheaper but will require a new fuel rail. Plenum - the stock one probably wont be flowing too well at this sort of hp Fuel pump - something like a bosch 044 Exhaust cam gear Cams Now time for a choice, you can use a metal head gasket, like the HKS stopper 1.6mm or do a rebuild using forged pistons. With a decompressed engine, you will should be able to make around that power without too many dramas - this is what I am doing:) Thats a few dollars, probably more close to the intial purchase price of the car.( I know, as apart from fitting everything, I have already spent that much on my gtst) Great if you want a long term project, or you intend keeping the car for a long time. If you sell it you will loose a few dollars. So, if it costs twice as much for a GTR, consider that you get 4WD so you can get the power down better, you also get a pretty tough looking body kit stock with pumped guards and wider wheels stock. You get a decent front mount cooler, a car built to rev to 8000rpm vs 7000rpm on gtst. An engine that you can wind 1.3bar (8.5:1 CR vs 9:1 for GTSt) into without a problem. Tougher internals good plenum. Infact you could do the exhaust, pod with partition and some boost and you will be getting deep into the 12s. The suspension is better, you get strut braces, better brakes, hid headlights AND its a GTR! Probably a few more things that I havent added, but you get the idea. Some people on here may argue that you dont need the this or that to get a RB25 to make 500hp, but I think its pretty close to accurate. So what is the price difference between a GTSt and GTR over there?

bugger

Oh and a boost cut defender will definately be alot cheaper than a remapped ecu and z32 afm. The downside is that you may have to tune to 1.2bar or whatever, then if you wind the boost down it will run a bit rich as the ecu/safc wont know the difference between the air flows - if you know what I mean.

bbenny, A boost cut defender, whilst not an ideal way of doing business, will do the job fine. If you are on a limited budget, this is perfect. Upside is that you can pick them up second hand, and if you decide to go remapped ecu, or something like e-manage down the track, you could easily sell it again and recoup some if not most of the money you paid;) If you need to find one second hand, drop me a pm and I can point you in the right direction, as I know of a shop here in Adelaide that has a couple in good condition.

Sard injectors are a bit of messing around to fit. The o-rings supplied are too thin and I had to put my stock ones on. INASNT had to use two o-rings to get a seal. Further you must remove the rubber gromet in the top of the cap, and change the plugs over on the injector harness. The plugs, clips etc are supplied. You will also need collars. Greenline are selling them for Y12618 each with collars. Nismo 555cc injectors I have heard are straight fit and sell for Y13254, so about $8AUD difference. I am not absolutely certain that nismo will fit straight in, perhaps someone else can say who has fitted them? In hindsite, I would definately be getting the nismos if I could do it over, for the sake of saving less than $50. 550 cc injectors should be good for up to 600bhp+, or close to 400rwkw (this is assuming 60kw driveline loss approx). The only down side to larger injectors is that they can get difficult to tune for part throttle and idle, so be prepared to make some sacrifices if you head in this direction.

I want to put a blower on mine too, how much can you pick up a whipple for over there, and what sort of flow?

skipppy, the way I look at it is I spend my money on what gives me the most enjoyment. Doesnt matter if you are putting down 150 or 450rwkw. Everybody is different. No matter how much you spend on a car, there will always be someone who can/will spend more - the main thing is to enjoy what you got which isnt hard with a skyline:D If you want to get out of it cheap, buy whatsisnames car as anything under 45K will be saving you money if you have to do it yourself;) I still cant believe you are selling it.