Steve

I am thinking I might even see if I can get some nittos for cheap - ie when james does his next trip to Japan. either that or if there is someone out there who would like to swap some 255/40/17 RE540s for some goodyear revspecs with heaps of rubber left (not for long though:D)

Matt, how come you cant go past 1bar? I have been running 1.2 with the new turbo and no problems except for lack of traction (which was really starting to shit me so I turned down the boost for a while - sideways in fourth gear at 120kmh, never tried to see what happens in fifth - too scared:D) The car was actually showing less knock with the new turbo than with the stock one. Hmm perhaps its the 11.8:1 af ratios or the fact that the tuner said he pulled a heap of timing?

How do you convert lbs/min to kw?

Pretty sure that you dont disconnect the stock controller, just restrict the air to it, or between it and the wastegate.

Joel, I have heard alot of guys mention that when they put an aftermarket or larger fuel pump in the car starts running a bit richer. Perhaps that is why it is worse than it was before? Also, as your car may be a bit richer than normal, it is possible that the plugs dont like it? When was the last time you had a look at them? and if you need some NGK bcpr6es plugs I have some spare coppers sitting in my garage that you can have as I have just had mine upgraded to platinum 7s. They are in good cond and free to good home:) Perhaps its a combination of a few things adding together and making the whole outcome worse.

Have a look on Megalla's website (www.megalla.com or .com.au) its on there

Just use a good quality brake cleaner, must be the non residual type. Cost about $10 a can for decent stuff. Just remove the AFM and spray the wire element. Its that simple. Pretty amazing watching all the black shit just disappear. Some people recommend electrical contact cleaner, but I have never used it. Just make sure it is non residual whatever you use as alot of electrical contact cleaners do leave residue.

Thanks Matt, the rice will come, already has a sprinkling here and there. As you probably know, aspirations are sometimes (well usually) kept in check by the reality of finances:) Just seems to be so many other more important things to get sorted first.

4 seems a bit low if you have 3" back except the dump, but 9 seems about right. I have never connected up a bleed valve, only an EBC, so sorry I cant help there. Pretty sure that tightening the valve will restrict air, thereby increasing boost, which is what you want as it is boost pressure that opens the wastegate.

Stock RB25 skyline boost is 5psi to 5000rpm, then 7 psi to redline. Its 2 stage. If your boost guage is inaccurate (its not an autometer is it? they seem to go out of cal), that would account for the 4 psi instead of 5. Usually when a cat back is fitted the drop in back pressure gives another couple of pounds boost, but then you get 7psi to 5000rpm and 9 psi to redline. This is standard without a good EBC or bleeder.

Depends on how fast you go over them:D Normal speed (ie slow) no noise.

EVOIV, that's exactly why. I not only want street legal, but I dont want to give them opportunity to have doubts. My car isnt slammed for exactly the same reason - its spot on legal height. Paul, $1000 for ceramic coating is way too expensive:D

I have a trust type R, which is plumbed back and is reasonably quiet. In fact just about everything is pretty quiet (except the screamer), the exhaust definately is louder with new turbs/manifold but has a really nice note to it, much angrier sounding, but the pod noise is completely gone with the new box. Evan made my RB25 tuned length ceramic coated mild steel manifold for 1200, ceramic coat of manifold and dump was around $200.

Got a screamer by accident, I wanted plumback. It will be getting fixed thank god it is too farken loud, just cop bait:) Luckily, I have already opened it up next to coppers going the other way (also got a bit sideways) and they didnt turn around, but its only a matter of time.

for a cheap fuel pressure reg, cant go past greenline. They sell the adj Nismo one, which bolts on in the stock position for about $150-$160 new. With postage, it would still be cheaper than what people sell them here for second hand.

Well I got a price from James on shipping, he said it is a bit tough without knowing exactly where you are located, but $300AUD will definately cover anywhere in the US

RS500 thanks for the link to the comparison chart. I see what you are saying about the turbine housing. Only confused now that once the wastegate opens, wouldnt back pressure be about the same at 1 bar of boost wether o.87 or 0.61??? I think HKS recommend the 0.87 turbine housing for RB25, but I will wait and see what this turbo goes like when I start winding boost in before I trade in the housing for a larger one. If I can keep a similar torque curve, its staying. Very nice to have good power available from low down, and it is definately more responsive and pulls alot harder off boost than with the stock turbo. Paul, if the car is on the road, not getting work done, there is every chance in the world.

No engine is still fine, he has a 2835, just doing some 'minor' mods to the body work:D

Good swaybars make a massive difference to the handling - makes chassis much more neutral whilst cornering. I also found front and rear strut (edit) braces give that little bit extra, and are a nice addition. Swaybars from Selbys (whiteline) fitted cost about $500, so they are very affordable suspension mod.

RS500, where did you get the info about the TD06 being rated lower? I wouldnt mind trying a larger AR, but I am not sure I want to loose the response which is pretty awesome, much better than I had hoped. HKS actually use the 0.87 AR on the 3037 they sell for skyline in complete bolt on kit form. I am just not sure I want to spend the $$ to find out that I prefer the 0.61 housing. Why would just putting a larger housing pick up more power at the same boost? EVOIV, 0.61 is the smallest, and yes its a 56T.

EVOIV, looks like you were starting to run a bit lean there, 13:1 Were you gettting any detonation?What size turbine AR are you using? Perhaps a smaller one would make a bit of difference? Also what boost were you running? Its interesting because trent from autobarn was making in the range of 280-290rwkw on SR20 S13, he was using a 0.73AR turbine housing. Certainly is a bit different, although the boost seems to build pretty quickly once it starts:) the car is very responsive, even off boost it is so much nicer to drive. I wound in 1.2 bar, its just crazy, really got to be very gentle with the right foot if you want to keep traction:) Time for some R compound rubber I think:) or wind the boost down:( Dont know if you noticed or not (on my other thread), but Evan gave me a quote on the turbo heat shield, said he makes them for $80

Roy, the joeys that go in the back of the exhaust make a pretty big difference - quieten things right down to a purr. That was on a mates supra with an N1 exhaust anyways, so I would expect the same. D1 Garage have one (or two) second hand ones sitting on their shelf at the moment, I dont know how much they want for them, but I dont think it would be huge.

I had a 3" dump of mild steel and the engine bay got bloody hot, so hot that I got paranoid so I wrapped it, which made a huge difference to underbonnet temps. Have now fitted a stainless ceramic coated dump, and I dont think it is quite as cool as the heat wrapped mild steel, so I will be heat wrapping it aswell. Having higher velocity in the exhaust, apart from spooling up the turbo quicker, can aid in cylinder scavenging. Also increased velocity decreases pressure, and back pressure is not your friend either:) Bottom line, if it makes the car go faster/harder, its all good. People have been coating and wrapping manifolds/dumps/turbines for a long time for good reason.

What help do you need with the car? Always willing to help out a fellow skyline owner:)

Good work, nice to see a bit of R&D being done and some good results coming from it. Just wondering what formula you used to determine the engines airflow? Cheers