Steve

PS, I think D1 Garage has some Tiens coming in for R32 sometime this week.

Have you had the car on a dyno yet to check the AF ratios. If you are leaning out only at higher boost, perhaps look at a rising rate fuel pressure reg. Otherwise an adjustable would do the trick. Eitherways it wouldnt hurt to upgrade your fuel pump. If your car has been tuned for higher octane, another option may be to just pull some timing. but I highly recommend you get the car on a dyno first, as this will tell you alot more about what is going on just some thoughts

lukevl, what lift and duration do you recommend for a street/track gtst aiming for mid and top end increase without too much loss of bottom end driveability. Inlet and exhaust. Do you recommend adj cam gears inlet and exhaust or exhuast only? I am looking at keeping red line probably under 7500rpm. Cheers

As Lukevl pointed out, cams will be different depending on what you want - mid range, top end, a bit of both.... If you can imagine, by going for top end, you will loose some bottom end, etc etc. Also, it may have a negative effect on emissions. Cams can be tuned to allow the cylinders to fill and empty easier, therefore increase power, but duration and overlap will vary depending on where you want to make the power. So if you get the wrong cams, your car will run like a dog. Out of interest what other mods do you have? Doing cams CAN be a good idea, but definately shouldnt be the first mod on the list:)

Well I didnt want the head recoed, but anyway using your figures $400 + $300 + $600 = $1300 LESS the cost of head gasket which are around $150odd, so should be 1150 not 1500. Why is it that they quote me $350 more than you? And that was a rough quote, he said it could be more.

Is being fitted (finally) this week - should be back on friday:)

I dont know exactly, they told me that they didnt like quoting without seeing the car???? He just picked up a price sheet from another job and said it will be $1500 to remove the head, disassemble the head, mild port, reseat the valves (which he said had to be done because they couldnt guarantee they would seat after they had been in the port with a dremel tool) and to reassemble and fit. I was under the impression that it would cost about $3-400 to remove and replace a head, and if the port is $300, then that is $8-900 to strip the head, do valves and refurbish. Not IMHO very good value. EDIT: and that price included me providing a head gasket.

Rang them, $1500 to remove and replace the head with mild port - no thanks.

Because you dont want to compromise. Sydneykid, I dont know where you do your shopping but you are paying (or would be if you used HKS) way, way too much.

thanks Bl4cK32

Joel, any chance of some contact details for this guy? I want to port my head when it comes off for gasket and cams:D cheers Steve

Go the twin plate. I bought a 9 button ceramic-ferride Xtreme clutch when I toasted my stocky. It was ok for a while, but started protesting after about 6 months - this is with only just over 200rwkw. I then got a twin plate, the clutch I would have got in the first place had I the funds at the time. Much better, and I know it will hold even when/if I do the 3L conversion I have planned (if the RB25 dies).

Dont know about R33/R34 compatability sorry. As for 2 piece versus 1 piece - my preference would be for 1 piece as theoretically any fow turbulence created by the joining of pipes could increase back pressure - I doubt it would have a noticeable impact unless it was a really poor join, just if I had the option of either I would take the one piece (and did when I had mine made/fitted)

Nice result JimX - plenty of smiles when the foot goes down I guess:) If you are worried about fuel pressure, as Tony suggested, a fuel pressure regulator could be the go unless you intend going over 250rwkw. Injectors will cost about 900-1000, fuel pressure reg can be had for under 200 - eg, nismo adjustable from www.greenline.jp . (I think they were about 157aud plus postage last time I checked and the dollar was buying about 78yen) I personally like the nismo one as it looks like a stocker just has an adjustment screw on the top, so no frigging around fitting it

The turbo on there is a HKS 3037 - he upgraded from the GCG one he had as he wanted more than the 240?oddrwkw. RIPS - any info on what sort of freight cost would be involved - also do you know if customs will be hitting duty+gst to bring from NZ to aust? What sort of prep do you do to the internals, I noticed you said stock internal, but have they been balanced, blueprinted, crank nitrited, rods linished, shop peened crack tested? Do you sell short motors, just with relocated belt tensioner and larger cam belt as a bolt up arangement for someone who may have an RB25 head already? What prep has been done to the block? Has the head been ported at all? What cams do you use? Does your plenum include a fuel rail? And, which oil pump do you use for the RB30 block? do you fit piston oil squirters? What bearings do you use? If you are getting 8.3CR does that mean that you just using RB30E pistons with a RB25DET head - no decking of the block or head? Thanks Steve B-Man sorry for the whore, but it looked like you may be interested in the answers as well?

Yeah bloody skippys hehehe.... Think its quite human to judge groups of people. Most people do it, just wont admit to it because its not politically correct. Even if not by race, you will always feel more comfortable with people that you can relate to or have something in common with. having said that, its good that you can recognise it as a undesireable trait:) eh skip?

The higher the pressure in the cylinder the more heat will be generated on compression stroke the more prone to detonation - this is my understanding its not the amount of air, but the pressure (or boost) that is the problem. Sorry I wouldnt have a clue how it would go on an RB30 except it will probably be a bit on the small side for my liking:D by putting on a 3L bottom end probably wont effect the peak power output overly as this will be the product of the turbo and support systems bolted on (intercooler, exhaust etc) just where the power is made. I would personally be looking at a GT35R or similar. Have a chat to Per4manz Turbochargers, they do a version of this that on a 2jz made boost from about 1800rpm and was sitting around 1bar by 2500 - this is from memory, they would be able to confirm for sure. They quoted me $2477 new. They claim 80% compressor efficiency at 1 bar - but wouldnt give me a copy of the map as it was inteletual property. http://www.per4manz.com/ Because it those figures are in a perfect world, no flow loss, no thermal loss etc. When a turbo is rated at xxx hp, that is in a 'perfect' test environment. Hope I havent led you too far astray with any of the answers, just passing on my understanding and hope that I have come close to the mark. Hope the new donk lasts a bit longer than the old one:p

Sorry warrick, my 2 yo has lost (hidden) the digital camera:( If you do a search, b-man has posted up quite a few pics on the forum:)

FAT32, sorry for the digression in your thread - bloody thread whores:) I did a bit of research about HKS turbos, specifically the 2530 and it appears the only bits that are stock garret are the cartridge and the turbine wheel. The compressor wheel and housing and the turbine housing are HKS only items, that probably explains why they are stamped with HKS Getting back to it - I know this isnt the best answer, but one option may be to see if you can buy a clagged HKS 2530 for a few hundred dollars and swap the cartridge from your turbo, then sell the compressor housing and wheel and the turbine cover? May not be the most realistic answer, unless you know of a clagged 2530 going cheap?

Yes I have, my brother is a GP - I am all to aware of the shortages. Like I said, lets get back to reality - you are now talking about the negative impact a yearly rego inspection will have on the public health system. If it makes you feel better, this will be my last post in response to you - so feel free to rant on in peace, I think it is going beyond a joke now.

about the same as I would feel if he was taking a dump at the time - thats why they have more than one doctor working in hospitals at a time. So that they can deal with emergencies - have you ever heard of someone dying in hospital because the doctor was having a crap. How will this be different. Please, lets get back to reality.

Real HKS 2530 on rb20 - pulled at 1.2 bar to 8200rpm redline. If they say it is equal - they are just being pedantic, equal in what way? What are the trims/wheels size etc. I am quite sure they may say it is equal (which could mean it is rated at the same peak hp - and nothing more another example would be to say that a VG30 is equal to a RB26 because they put out the same power, not telling a lie, but not the whole story either if you get what I mean). HKS would love to know that garrett are selling their design turbo to the rest of the world - would be in breach of agreement and leave them wide open to be sued? Ask the guy how exactly it is equal, and how it doesnt breech the agreement with HKS if it is equal - might throw a bit more light on the subject, even better, ask him for it in writing or e-mail - then forward it to HKS and see what they say:D

The amount of fuel vapour and lack of O2, its not going to ignite - i actuall tried to 'blow up' a lawnmower petrol tank once, but couldnt get more than a flame out the top - it didnt go into the tank itself even though the tank was nearly empty - quite frustrating. From what I could see, the whole pump, electrics and tank are all insulated from eachother - plastic everywhere. I didnt even bother putting the dust boots on the pump when I installed it as I couldnt see any real purpose apart from protecting from dust:D

Hills plenum uses the stock runners, and just plants a new chamber on the top to facilitate a forward facing TB. The intake runners are radiused, but not bellmouthed. The acutal plenum sits quite high at the front and only just clears the bonnet - this is with stock RB25. If anything I believe it would have less underbonnet clearance than the stock plenum. I got one of these believing it would sit a bit lower than it does, unfortunately, by the looks, I would think it would not clear the bonnet with another 3cm height:( Get a jun or greddy plenum, or get a decent belmouthed plenum made that allows for extra deck height - wish I did. Anyone want to buy a hills plenum?