Steve

anybody ese out there got 0.02 they wouldnt mind throwing in?

It probably would decrease economy and increase wear, but I dont think it would be overly dramatic, because there is less load on the engine. Enrico, you would have to get a new diff center. I was thinking of going to a auto center, only 4.3 vs 4.1 in the manual, I believe the R32 manual uses a 4.3 diff too? but it might be worth going a bit higher still and get a decent aftermarket one - think I'll be doing a bit more research:)

There is a guy in the for sales selling a VG30 high flow for about $370, might be worth a look. As for a blower, where would you fit it?

Dean it would definately make a difference to turbos too - actually been thinking of doing this for a while, just didnt think the results would be quite as dramatic.

OK, let me be the first to bite: R33, mods; 600 x 300 x 76 FMIC (hybrid) Pod (K&N) 3" full exhaust (N1 type, cat in) Power FC EBC at 0.85bar first tune 189rwkw - afm voltage peaked at 4500rpm second tune 203rwkw with Z32 and non slipping clutch as a guide Hope you didnt take my lost cause comments the wrong way, sorry at what was only meant as a friendly dig I didnt mean to offend. I agree with most of what you say, its just that I see another use for dyno figures, like Joel and others no doubt, beyond what you do - my bad

lost cause:p hehehe

Warpspeed, does this mean that if you take a RB25, shorten the diff by 20% and you would have a similar package to a RB30 with the original diff? Or does this only apply to NA engines? To regain the the top end would it be as straight forward as increasing the revs by 20%? Cheers Steve

and double farkn!! good luck poss.

Hi Rev, I agree in the many influences that can make a dyno readout vary greatly. Some people dont, and hopefully by reading in forums like this it might even help dispell some ignorance. But I spose we are going to have to disagree, because I still believe that quoting dyno figures across the other side of the country is the only way to guage relative performance. I am not talking exact numbers being gospel, but it is enough to let me know that someone with the same mods as me, plus a high flow turbo, who is making less on the same type of dyno than me (my car was tuned nose in to a workshop in the middle of summer during the middle of the day), is probably not getting all they can out of their setup. Generally as a rule, most people get around the high 100s to low 200s with cooler, ECU, boost and full exhuast. I believe that I am right in saying that if you are getting on the low side of the above figures, and you have a highflow and supporting fuel system, then you sould be expecting more - everything else being equal. Just about every performance shop in australia use dyno figures to support what the cars are capable of, or what sort of gains can be expected - it is about the only value that can be understood and quantified (roughly) between the coasts. I do think bragging about dyno figures is a bit of wank, especially when you are talking only a couple of kw, but not so when you start talking large figures. Here is an example to think about, if you had the choice of two skylines, both with the same wheels, same capacity engine, same gearbox and final drive, same driver, both started making boost at say 3000rpm, and had 1 bar at 4000rpm, but one put out peak 189rwkw at 6400rpm, and the other put out 289rwkw at 7200rpm, where would your money for line honours? If you picked the 289rwkw, then you will see the relevance of quoting figures, if not, you're a lost cause

Thanks Roy, its all good. I have read a bit, as you say its mainly broad stuff, not a lot of detail. Heaps on the science of getting the air in.

Need electrical repair, call 1800 BHIPPY - the B is for Bargain:p hehehe

Dude, (oops sorry, kanga:D) he actually gave you a permit to have a bust light bulb, cos if another copper had pulled you over, you could have waved the bit of paper in his face and would have been on your way. If you got pulled over again, with nothing to show, you could have copped a regency insp if he/she was being a fark head. I think your best go out and buy a lotto ticket:) Pulled over twice, not defected, and both times let off with a warning.

FARK, what this time?

Yeah, a bit frustrating, but I wasnt expecting a landslide, because there seems to be so little info out there on the interelationships between these things. Thanks for the bump:)

Dean, if you have localised the problem, you have won half the battle - the difficult half. If you show the auto elec guy where the problem is, and how you can kill the engine, he should be able to narrow it down pretty quicly - with any luck:)

Do you know why then that a power fc will work on a manual, but not an auto?

Rev210, I am seriously concerned about your obsession with dynos Alot of people agree that dyno doesnt mean a heap, when compared to actual performance. And the peak dyno figure means even less. But, a dyno is one way to roughly compare power figures, and can assist with trying to determine if a car is performing near its optimum. You talk of times, but they are not the be all and end all when you are trying to compare output of vehicles, as there is a much greater fudge factor that needs to be applied- ie driver experience, suspension, tyres etc - all adds up to alot more than the variation between dynos. How many people can't except that you have been able to achieve the times you posted, because they have similar mods and can get no where near those times, or worse still, much more heavily modified and still cant match you times. How then would it be possible to rate the efficiency of the modifications, as you are not comparing apples and apples. Would you have seriously ever bought a skyline if someone told you, you could do a full exhaust, FMIC, management, wider wheels, and if you are lucky you will drop the time from 14.4(rated by factory) to 14 flat (what some people with these mods acheive)? It would be like trying to compare a car driven by me, compared with the same car driven by peter brock around a circuit - chalk and cheese - and the figures would mean absolutely stuff all with regards to the perormance of the car. Then there is the problem that alot of people dont want to take their car down the strip - and why should they if they dont want to? Should these people then just mod the car, not knowing what to expect (ie actual kw gain), or if the money they have spent is wisely spent, or if there may be a problem somewhere else, and where it may be? Not every one has the luxury of past experience, and an idea of what to expect, and then if that expectation is not met - investigating the cause and hopefully rectifying the problem - its alot like modding a car and then trying to squeeze everything out of that mod at the strip until you have milked it for all its worth, then do the next thing - just not on a strip, on a dyno. Even top drag cars use dynos for this, prior to putting the car down the 1/4. Bottom line, while dynos are not perfect, their is not much else that can be used to compare apples with apples, unless of course you have another suggestion, and I missed the point of what appears to be an obsession against using dyno figures ever?

definatley get cooler, with the stock one and stock turbo, even at 13psi, you are asking for trouble.

Manual and auto dont mix - ah well:(

Dean, best way to tell if the ECU is cactus, would be to plug it into someone elses car (the suspect one) and see if it does the same thing in that car. Unfortuanately my car is in the shop at the moment, but Hippy's isnt;)

So Miss Nismo, what exactly is the verdict? Do we have a sexy blue R32 gracing this city again?

Yeah sorry Dean, I acutally gave my ECU away about 6 months ago to someone who was in a similar position to you Have you had all the electrics checked out? Just ask because if something caused the ecu to choke, putting a new ecu in may result in the same problem. Seems pretty strange that something like an ecu would go tits up, as there are no moving parts and are pretty well protected where they live. You must be getting pretty frustrated by now, all this dicking around? For a second hand stock ecu, you could perhaps try one of the shops around that deal in parts or get front cuts, ask them if you can try before you buy? Tuning shops might have them sitting around too, where I got my power fc fitted, they had like 1/2 dozen in a box from people that upgraded and didnt want them anymore - but that is in the west. Sorry I cant be of more help

believe they are on Megalla's site, sorry I dont have a url:(

Definately get a decent front mount. I have EBC, cooler, power fc, and full exhaust and put down just over 200 with stock turbo (at 0.85 bar) and stock fuel system (injectors hitting about 83%) The change to the car when I put the cooler on was quite dramatic, well worth while. The stock cooler according to http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/mall/ic07.asp quotes a Zoom test stating the stock cooler has a 7 psi drop at 7000rpm. edit, the 200 I get is not in shootout mode.

Hi, I have discovered that there is plenty of info on compressor sizing, compressor maps etc, but there seems to be a severe lack of definitive info on turbines, and the effect of different sizes and trims and the implications of a particular choice. Specifically I was interested if anybody had any info on: Head and manifold flow characteristics, Cam sizing and overlap, wastegate sizing, trim of the wheel, turbine AR vs airflow and back pressure, and, selecting systems that work together. I realise, as probably alot do, that the smaller the AR ratio the sooner the boost builds, the greater the back pressure - which equals less top end and milder cams needed. But how specifically can you determine for example if you have a 2.5L engine, what turbine size performs best at what rev band (ie from what rpm to what rpm) is there a compressor map equivelant for turbines? - what cams should be used and how much effect changing from say a 0.61 AR to 0.63 to 0.78 etc? optimum overlap for broad power band, the effect of different ovelap and duration on turbine sizing? what is too big and too small? and then how would you determine the same for 2L or 3L? There must be some sort of quantifiable interelation between airflow, timing, overlap, turbine AR - or am I dreaming? Is it just a case of hit and miss? Any ideas would be really appreciated, as this has been bugging me for a while. A fair few questions there, but I am hoping to be able to tie the air going in to the air going out a bit better, and hopefully understand better what compromises must be made to produce a given effect:D Cheers Steve