Steve

Bugger:( Hippy, get back to work

Hippy, I have decided to keep them. Never know when they come in handy:)

Yes, just reset the position. Have you quizzed your friend on the source of his info? I have never heard of this happening, and if it is 'often' I believe I would have heard of it. Besides, does the R33 use a float or sensor?

boost and higher CR generally dont mix, loosing a bit of bottom end, well if you are running 300rwkw, you wont have a great bottom end, and nor should you expect one with a 2.5L engine. But at least with RB25 you have the VCT which compensates, which the RB26 doesnt have. Its always a trade, top end, bottom end or midrange.

doing it by hand isnt very hard at all, what were you expecting?

Standard R33 GTSt boxes are pretty tough should be good for well over 300rwkw, after that perhaps a second hand holinger 6 speed R34 box (if you got a spare 5K) then you need to start thinking dog box.

2 ways, 1 got to a guage/instrument shop and get it calibrated, 2 after you fill up, remove the dash, gently pry the needle off and, with the cluster plugged in and ignition switched on, replace the needle. I had a few probs with my guages after fitting EL background, just recalibrated using mk1 eyeball, ie, the latter option:)

Govt job, its allowed:D sorry for all the whoring:(

I got 2 R33 stock wheels with good rubber, if they are any good to you?

If he/she's unemployed, probably at $5 a fortnight

3037S should be good for 300rwkw+ depending on boost etc. There is a couple of SR20s here in aust making 300 with the 3037. Even on a larger 2.5 or 2.6L engine, T78 size turbo is going to be very laggy. Get back to work Hiep....

netrati, have a look at this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...s=&threadid=408 could also be the problem at low revs. Plugs never hurt, esp as NGK coppers are about AUD$20 a set, clean your afm, change the fuel filter and reset the ecu - different car (hopefully)

This is something that I was looking at a while back. I came to the conclusion that it probably isnt really all that necessary, as turbine housing itself is alot more restrictive than the manifold. As long as there are no rough edges anywhere, and every joint meets seemlessly (ie manifold to turbine matched) that is about all you can do without increasing the AR ratio - which will of course effect where in the rev range the turbos operate at peak efficiency. It may be possible to extrusion hone the turbine housing, with out effecting the AR ratio overly, but the size of the inlet to the turbine housing itself, if its larger than the path the gasses has to follow as they travel through the turbine, should be fine. Does that make sense? Just to qualify, this is all I have found from research, so its possible that like so many other things, paper and the real world differ:D

No worries, thanks anyways

the tyres may need to be refitted? They never leaked at all when they were on my car - really sorry about that. Autosalon? Matt, what are you doing! I think its paining me more that you to see you sell:D Insurance is paid up. hoping to head around there, but a few more weeks till the rest of the parts come from japan - then hopefully around 300. When(IF) she blow, if not sooner if I get impatient, going 3L - or a blower, not too sure which to do first.

And then you can probably add a couple more for forgotten bits and pieces. This is exactly why I will never sell mine, except in the most unusual circumstances - ie, I can never imagine selling it.

I'll give you $10 bucks for the BOV

got one, it works very well. When it went on my clutch fryed, had trouble driving to the dyno. Told it is rated at 2psi drop at 600hp.

The sensor is a temperature sensor. Removing it doesnt hurt anything - I have had mine tucked into a hole in the subframe for about 9 months, with both a stock ecu and power fc - no problems.

StraightSix, although the squish zone is changed, it would be aruable that it is eliminated, only increased. It may not be as effective as the stock setup, but this is more than compensated for by the reduction in CR - this is evident by the many 300rwkw RB25s being built in Japan, with stock internals. Even Ben Ellis, who is doing a RB25 build in HPI magazine is following this philosophy. He has spent a large amount of time in Japan around performance cars, so if it were that detrimental, would he still be doing it?

lowlux, are those $350 pistons stock ones or the hyperwhatsashitbagger stuff?

believe this is done to allow bigger coilpacks, therefore bigger spark. Very handy if you are running CDI. Have only seen it done on a track GTR, it was using 6 ford 6 cylinder coil packs, ie, each coilpack was used by ford on the falcons to run six sparkplugs, was hooked up to its own plug. I have been told that just by removing the cover on the stock coilpacks will aid cooling as well (of the coilpacks)

aza, yes as far as I know/understand. raist60, definately can tune past that point, my stock afm ran out of resolution at 4500rpm, and the AF ratios above there stayed pretty much the same. Probably just tune by rpm at max load? (just guessing)

$28k isnt an unreasonable price if you look at how much it costs to mod a skyline - it all adds up. Matt, correct me if I am wrong, but from you list of mods, you probably would have spent mid to high 30k+? Its really is so bloody expensive when you acutally add all the costs together - depressing sometimes. Perhaps with the new raws scheme the value of a modded car will start to be appreciated a bit more - heres hoping. hippy, I'm hurt! I keep my car very clean:(...lol

lowlux, for $350 a set, you can put me down for some too please:D - maybe we could organise a group buy if there is enough interest - or at least Joel and I could split postage.