Steve

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...light=Front+cut This is the only thread I found, you could try and e-mail FVEJ [email protected] they guys name is grahame King - he's pretty helpful. I will have a look on the SDU forum now

Have seen guys sell them for But seriously, a 3L bottom end is dirt cheap, new rings and bearings, RB25DE head plenum and fuel rail, injectors, 2nd hand turbo, afm, ecu, harness, new timing belt. May have to do gearbox too, which would be a good thing. Then there is the brakes (r33 ones would fit nicely I think) All up, if he buys a front cut, sell what he doesnt need, including the holden bits - would reduce the overall cost. Come to think of it there was a guy selling an R33 front cut on here in the business section - think he was from aulbury - wait I'll do a search:)

Solved the problem - get him to buy a front cut - just sell the left overs - panels, 3.8L engine, etc

I think it would be close Joel, a long motor costs 2.5 or less, just a head then you need manifolds, injectors, plenum...blah, blah Even with a NA 3L and DE head, no turbos, he would be miles in front.

Munro has done this with a 3L bottom end, I think it made over 900hp, runs mid 9s on street (nitto) rubber. For box, I believe trust boxes dont handle the power too well, hollinger is probably a better choice. If Munro reads this thread I am sure he will reply, but otherwise you could always pm him. If you can get hold of the back issues of HPI - that is his 3L streeter that is written about.

Hmm, and while he has the RB25 out, buy a 3L bottom end from a wrecker for $100 - simple swap - he wont regret it lol

Why not buy a new garrett GT turbo then? Get the specs you want and it costs less than 2.5k? That T04E 57T does look pretty good Go on, you know you want to...

If the bearing was from the 70s, I would definately replace it with a new one before fitting it:p But seriously, bush bearings today are catching up with ball bearings. Subaru use them on the WRX. If you are not sure - go with what you really want, not what is cheapest - remeber, the glow of a cheaper unit will wear off quickly - the added cost of a better unit will be forgotten when you are driving. I would definately go the smaller A/R ratio as it will make boost quicker, just make sure the internal gate is a good size, which it should be if its designed for use with that turbo. If you are buying it from a shop, ask if they have fitted them to anybody elses car, and if you can get in contact with them to find out how it went? sidewaymambo - any details on joe's turbo, performance wise and what turbine AR did he use? - that map is just so nice and fat!

Yes it should - purely off the map anyways:) sidewaymambo, the t04E 57 trim looks nice

INASNT - compressor maps arent too difficult to read - airflow along the bottom and bar up the side. thing to remeber is that at sea level you already have 1 bar - so subtract 1.0 from the vertical axis and you will have boost pressure. With turbine housing size, one theory (the one I am trying:)) is to use a smaller housing with large wastegate - this will build the boost earlier, and keep you away from the surge limit. I am using a 0.61 A/R ratio turbine housing on the 3037 I am fitting - I hope it will be done and tuned in about 2-3 weeks (the wait is killing me) so I will let you know how it goes. That turbo should be sweet with 0.8 to 1.0 bar on stock internals (and a good tune) - after that start thinking about a head gasket to drop the compression ratio ***ducks for cover waiting for sydneykid to throw something***

I just looked at the add - it states that their can prevents oil being returned to the inlet - if you got oil, you got a warranty claim:)

You shouldnt need to block off the line from the plenum to the rocker cover. This is for pcv whilst not on boost - as there is a vacuum drawing the air from the rocker cover. when on boost of course, the plenum is pressurised and then the catch can takes out the oil prior to return to through turbo. Having said that, cant see that it would hurt redirecting your PCV through a catch can.

A dry sense of humour seems to be hard to pass without tonal inflection (ie when written) - I've been caught out a couple of times too Enrico

A couple of ideas, 1. buy an eaton (roots type) blower from holden, the blower itself is alot cheaper from them than if you source one from CAPA (ie under 2k), or 2. buy an RB20, do a conversion - may even be cheaper than a blower, definately cheaper than 2 turbos - and better fuel economy to boot

I checked on this and was told that its because the HKS gaskets compress more that a TOMEI? Also, they have a stainless insert around the bore that is one piece, not multiple plates - perhaps I have been mislead. How long ago have you seen these headgaskets that you are talking about - is it possible that the technology has caught up with the problems that were encountered a few years ago? Or are these companies lying to us?

As far as cooling for rear cylinders, could it be overheating on 5 and 6 because they are running a bit leaner?

If you bow air into a tube from one end and block the other end, then most of the air will be where the tube is blocked, so feeds better into the rear cylinders that the front ones - this would explain the tapering off of the plenum at the rear too. If the plenum was sealed pressure would be equal on all surfaces, but once you open an inlet vavle, the flow dynamics of the entire plenum change - this is why it takes so much time to design any plenum properly, and the flow of each runner must be measured individually - to ensure they are matched as closely as possible. haveing said that, it would follow that the stock RB20/25 plenum would be biased towards 3 and 4, perhaps they just got the design spot on? From Corky Bells books on forced induction, the plenum design for the RB20/25 is better than a front mounted throttle body. Interesting subject.

Sorry to see what the wankers did, and thanks for the warning - with all the revenue they pull from import owners for speeding, you think the police would feel obliged to put more time into the investigation of crimes against the cars - after all its in their interest to keep us out there on the roads But seriously, its a crying shame that vigilantes arent tollerated, would make life more satisfying to be able to punch living f#$k out of pricks like that.

Those clutch plates look too small for the pressure plates. The friction material shouldnt hang over like that? (on the inside) at least on the only nismo twin plate I have seen it didnt - it had new clutch plates in it and both they and the old plates mated up with the pressure plates, and had nismo on them. To fit OS twin plates you have to cut part of the (stock) bolts off (shorten them) so that they fit - is this the problem you are having?

nissaner, theoretical part 2: Your catch can is stuffed and doesnt work:) j/k If you take off the oil fill cap when at idle, you will soon know if you are getting much blow by - on cars with poor (compression) rings, you will notice air escaping at a fair rate - thats if the pcv valve isnt blocked:p

Sorry dude, dont know on either count.

Purely thoeretical: Catch cans take out the oil from blow by, so if your rings are a bit tired, blow by will increase, pushing more oil into the catch can. Perhaps you just have a really fresh engine?

got there eventually, the place is called Cryotuff its at 18-20 Daisy Street, Revesby NSW 2212, Ph (02) 9773 0647, Fax (02) 9772 4100, email [email protected]

'Tyndago' off the SDU forums drag races a bit and plays with GTRs in the US. He states there that he spoke to some japanese GTR guru (cant remeber name) and that he said go highest flowing injector to 6 then down to lowest at 1. So this is in line with the 6 and 5 running a bit leaner - might be worth flow testing your injectors before fitting them.

Only one place I have heard ot that does this in Aust - thats in either melbourne of sydney, cant remeber, but i will look it up when I get home:)