Steve

you could try putting a 30mm thick piece of polystyrene foam on top of the plenum - that will give you a good idea of where the problems may be?

TODA AU - perhaps you should pull your head in. Many people import directly from Japan for the exact reasons rev stated. Customs dont hit gst or duty for private imports (not talking about quantity). that aside - who the hell do you think you are? thought police? this forum is hear to share information, not slag off at people. You have just destroyed your credibility in my, and I am quite sure many other poeple's eyes. You have a go at sydneykid for no other reason it appears than to try and progress your own image. then you decide to start doing the same to others that are voicing an opinion - thats what this forum is for, if you dont like it perhaps you can take your attitude somewhere else that it may be appreciated. As for meeting up with rev - I'd pay to see that, usually the smallest dog that barks the loudest. I have no doubt you will have nothing but more abuse for me - but hey, I have to respect you before its likely to worry my so fire away if it will make you feel better.

Thants bloody cheap, got quoted $1650.

Still not quite right 27489 yen = 352.88 aud, (current exhange rate is 77.9 yen : 1 aud) no duty no gst 'cos its a private import (customs seem to be kind) bought a fair bit of stuff, never been hit any additonal charges, this includes injectors and a new HKS turbo. I havent acually priced having the chamber resized, only porting, valves seated, triple faced, extrusion honing, etc - added to the cost of fit and remove valves, cams, clean head - well it all adds up. The $700 I was quoted for a port was for a bare head, no remove and replace furnishing which would be required - but not in the case of a head gasket. Doesnt changing the shape and size of a combustion chamber have the possibility of creating hot spots - I was under the impression that most manufacturers spend alot of time and effort getting the combustion chamber design pretty close to perfect. How much can actually be removed before heading into dangerous territory? Could you please explain the downsides of a headgasket approach to decompression - because so far the gasket appears to be tried and effective and cheap by comparison. What is it exactly that I am missing? PM on the way for those quotes - thanks

So many mods - so little money:p

:uh-huh:

http://monkeywrenchracing.com/apexi_safc.html - some info on SAFC

SAFC = Super Air Flow Controller, basically an interceptor that tricks the ECU to allow tuning of the air/fuel ratios. Most people seem to report 20-30+rwkw improvment with the fitting of one of these. With one of these and a cooler, you could expect a dramatic improvement in the performance of the car, $50 for a bleed valve (dont go over 12psi for reliability sake, or 10psi with stock cooler). Probably be in the 180-200rwkw range.

:whip: Just thought I'd put this up before anyone beats me to it

Nice, you running R compounds arent you? New toy, must play eh? Have a good run, wish I could come, but the wife has other ideas

So you finally took her for a thrash throught the hills! How'd it go? Twisties as good as the straight line? get any drift practice in ?

23 psi is fine for a boost friendly stock rb20, but rb25 stock is 9:1 - not so good.

Thanks dude, thats what i wanted to know. Sometimes people say 'this is being sold at cost' - when you know for a fact that they are the same price anywhere else. If one of you youngans think they sound ok, they'll be fine for a half deaf old fart like myself. How long are they going for that price?

All your oils and filters should be changed as part of compliance. Plugs isnt a bad idea, but maybe try 0.8mm gap;)

with the exhaust you are probably running about 9-10psi already, so a bleed vavle by itself isnt going to do huge amounts. first thing I would be doing is getting some decent suspension - probably cost you around 1-1.2k for decent second hand. Some caster bushes cost you about $200. Next would depend on how far you intend going with the mods. A SAFC (SAFC II new from greenline is about $425+ postage) isnt a bad thing, but if you intend going for > 200rwkw, a full management system is better. you could get a SAFC fitted and close to tuned with the change from the 2k after the suspension. After this is done, then be thinking about cooler and bleed valve. Also good cheap mods are strut brace and pineapples. Swaybars are good too, and about $500 for adjustable selby's front and rear. Building a cold air partion is a very cheap exercise, and helps keep the throttle response crisper once the engine has warmed up. A second hand cooler is ok if you find a good one, but you wont be able to find both cooler and suspenion for the $$$ i think. this is one option. you could go cooler and SAFC - but it really is worth getting suspension sorted - make the whole driving experience alot nicer Some thoughts anyways.

you can find the gaskets here: http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bcpartli...ntake=FI#engine Slight error on the price its $350 not $300 (my bad:)). But please lets compare costs here, cos I have done a bit of research. Remove head $300 New Gasket $350 Postage < $40 ie under $700 I have been quoted for some head work. Clean, Mild port, triple seat vavles, assemble and dissasemble was all up $1295, then add the cost of fit and remove $300 plus a new headgasket. This was the cheapest I have found so far. Over $1600. I would love to know where I could get a head done for $350, as I am sure alot of people here would - even just a mild port for that price would be awesome, the best price I have been quoted for a mild port is $700 - thats supply bare head. Extrusion hone in SA costs $100 a cylinder - its just not economical. I do intend getting a mild port done when the head is off. Bottom line in my reasoning is head gasket is quick easy and has proven results - what more do you need?

Hmm, interesting to find out what it does.

If you want some bilsteins, D1 Garage have a set (with springs) second hand - would really recommend castor rods or bushes, a strut brace helps and pineapples if you get axle tramp. Whiteline adjustable sway bars are about 5 hundred a set new fitted (maybe less?) - thats what they cost on my R33 anyways - these are also very good value for money. Lastly get a good wheel alignment, this way you will know if you need camber bushes:)

Interesting, got any pics? Good to hear you got your mid range back - make driving a bit nicer:)

Meow

son of rajab, when you say 400rwhp, what type of dyno are you talking? Just noticed that there is a huge difference between the way a Dyno Dynamics (used alot in aust) dyno and a Dynojet (popular in US) Dyno. Always better to compare apples and apples Dyno figures are a strange thing. In Japan it is common practice to decompress an RB25 - have been told around 8.6:1 is good (HKS 1.6mm gasket) to stretch the RB25 to a reliable 300rwkw. VVT keeps the offboost reasonable, and the engine is alot more boost friendly. I think one of the big advantages of the RB26 over RB25 is a lower compression ratio, as it is difficult from most accounts to get high boost reliably with 9:1 comp ratio (RB25DET) - thats when you need to start looking at forged pistons etc. I know what Sydneykid will say about decompressing the engine with gasket:p, but its ALOT cheaper to fit a $300 gasket than fully build a bottom end or buy rb26 internals. If the engine does blow, just buy an RB30 bottom end and go for it (have to cut holes in your bonnet though:))

EMS postage from Japan for 6 injectors only cost me 31 dollars, and I know when its arriving as they have a tracking number, so its not a big expense. Its ok to buy stuff from os - god knows I do, but that is if you want new, and you can fit it your self - If it was something that I couldnt fit myself, I personally would buy it local and get them to fit as well, may cost a few extra $$, but at least you have peace of mind and a guaranteed result. Also for second hand and hard to find parts, you can see what you are getting and if it doesnt work you have a comeback. Good and bad on both sides I guess Lastly IMO if it is only a couple of dollars more to buy local, why not support adelaide business? They put something back into the community.

SR20 injectors are the same as R33 RB25DET - in the latest HPI mag, they state the biggest injectors for NEO is 480cc HKS.

Crazy for stock internals - would certainly make a few people sit up and take notice I reckon - says alot for using head gaskets to decompress. Glad I will be doing this when the new turbo is on. I didnt put my car up - as since the cold wheather has set in she tends to ping a bit on load at around 4.5k, so I was scared:)

Will consider trade + cash - I am currently after a 10" sub and amp