Steve

Wouldnt have a clue, why dont you ask simon?

Think it was a bit over 1k all up. I actually sent 2 payments one for injectors, one for collars. Simon just told me how much to transfer and I did. Exchange rate is getting better (was on 75:1 when I got them), so probably less than what I paid anyway.

Paid normal price I think? I have looked at a couple of places here, rekon that greenline is pretty close to wholesale price in aust, may be even cheaper cos there is no duty?

Yeah got them from greenline with collars. Are you talking about horsepowers' injecotor prices? Cos the only 550cc I have seen on their site are low impedance top feed - no good for GTSt

Joel, for a 3 litre, these turbos (from Per4manz in WA) have been used with huge success on 2jz motors, and very good on rb25 too. I would have got one if my 3037 didnt come up at the right price Basically a GT35 with GT30 turbine housing, externally gated Edit: those adaptors look like turbulence city

Nope, sard.

Just make sure you get the thing checked out properly if you are buying second hand. they cant be rebuilt, so if she is stuffed you're up for a whole new cartridge. 2530 makes easy 230 kw on RB20 at 1.2bar - so would expect 2535 would be in the 230-250 range too????

Bigger turbo = more lag. If you keep the turbine a/r small as possible, less lag.

The greenline kit is nearly 7k, the rx6 kit is a bit cheaper (by about 1k). I actually got the turbo from www.fvej.com, also got a hks wastegate for 290aud second hand in perfect conditon. The rest is being custom made. I was supposed to be putting the car in last sat to get it all done this week, but the guy is sick so I'll have to wait. Wouldnt be able to get a proper power figure up for a while anyways, as I have a head gasket and cams coming from japan, but they are on back order, plus I have to get my injectors and fuel pump fitted and a tune, so it will probably be a while yet:( If you hunt around, you can get the bits cheaper than buying a kit - still waiting for a final figure (dont like setting price for custom work until its over - that way you dont get corners cut:) ) I have been given a rough price though - acutally be closer to 5 than 6 fitted - so you can save a quid.

www.d1garage.com www.fvej.com/perform.htm

Well, if you are too worried, just get a high flow:)

They are rated at 1bar and are rated 10% low.

INASNT, I have been told by shops (one in adelaide, one in perth) that if you buy a 2835 internal gate to fit skyline, it fits. I'll check with someone I know who is getting one from Japan to see what the go is.

I will, and while you're there, see if you can get the tax off 98 ron - after all it is the green fuel

Yes they are MB Quart - good memory. Tough to know what to buy isnt it? Soooo many choices, and can only get one tho I reckon best bet is put most of the money into the amp and speakers Always seems the best time to buy though is when they do an end of model run out. So Mel, whats up with moving you around like that - do we just have to ring up on the day to see where your at? Oh and is there discounts available for SAU members:D

Who have you spoken to?

Can only agree with what others here have said, you listen to your front stage, spend the money there. Hippy - 15" my you have a big one Mel, where is the store you work at? do they often get good deals? I am after an 8-10" sub (not as greedy as hippy) and an amp to drive it Also, is it worth going second hand, always seems to be heaps of guys selling the stuff on this forum?

Joel, I was equally sceptical, but James assured me that what he has is all that's necessary went on to explain that he has seen this sort of setup alot when he lived in Japan. He swears its a stock ECU. Recons alot of places that tell you that you need more firstly dont have the experience that the Japs do, and secondly want to sell you stuff you dont need The whole conversation started when I told him what I was chasing and how I was planning about doing it, he talked me out of spending a heap of dollars that I didnt need to. Clint, he took me for a spin only a few weeks ago to prove his point (fark he knows how to throw it around ), definately no z32 afm - drop into their shop and take a look. I still have trouble believing the few mods and the performance he has achieved - but if it cant be done, he wouldnt be in a hurry to recommend people do it - his business rep is relying on it.

nisky3t3, best get your car to a dyno I think?

HKS 2530 on RB20DET with 1.2bar made 230rwkw in mates car - this is with FMIC, full exhaust and increased fuel pressure, pod and EBC. Stock ECU (not chipped), manifold, plenum, afm. He also runs a catch can and oil cooler. This car has heaps of midrange, which it needs as its a drift car. He has driven this car hard for a couple of years and never had a problem with the internals. If you have a copy of the latest HPI mag, his car is featured in there - its the cefiro. Remember if you want a streeter, a car with good midrange will beat a car with top end power every time - but if its for drag, different story (depending exactly when it comes on boost). I would imagine that a HKS 2835 would put you up around the 250-260rwkw mark. If you use a small turbine housing and large wastegate, it will bring it on boost earlier, making it more streetable - but you may find the injectors are starting to thin a bit, and the fuel pump may well need an upgrade. this also means ECU will need doing - its really going to add up. The HKS2835PRO has a t3 turbine inlet, and will bolt straight up, which would be a bit cheaper if you wanted to retain the stock manifold - but still need to do injectors, fuel pump and ecu. Also with the PRO you can keep the same dump you have now.

:bahaha:

Enrico, I have a stock airbox with filter you can borrow - though I thought that pods were legal as long as they are secured properly - better safe than sorry I spose:)

Greenline, http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bcpartli...ntake=FI#engine Only sell new, but its pretty cheap. If they dont have it on their site, they can usually get it anyway, just e-mail them.

AFM should present as a voltage, if you go into monitor, you can select it there - use peak hold if you want to see what it hits. Knock, over 60 should flash the check engine light - that means it is time to back off, 100 is pretty bad. How long ago did it get tuned?

EVL R33, what is the manual for? (ie which car), cos my power fc settings look nothing like those ones. Could you possibly send me a copy too please:) [email protected] Cheers