Steve

Also, greenline are selling power fc for about 1-1.1k (aust) at the moment. If you do a search for info on wolf, power fc, autronic, microtec etc, there is heaps of info on past threads as this topic has been covered in some depth before.

Power FC will handle alot more than 300rwkw - in japan they use them on big hp applications. Downside is that you cannot remove the AFM, but AFM is good for street. Wolf 3D will allow MAP or AFM, Autronic runs MAP, Microtec runs MAP, list goes on. Have only heard good things about the new Wolf 3D V4.5#, but it will depend on what your tuner is comfy with. Autronic are very good too. One thing you will have with a wolf or autronic is that you can run injectors of either high or low impedance. Do the ford injectors fit the stock runners? If they are high impedance they would be a good upgrade for RB20DET too.

Well he told me probably around 1K for 2 seats with rails landed- second hand but in very good (like new) condition. Spose it depends on what he ends up getting them for, but with the yen weaker against the dollar, I'm hoping it will be less rather than more. What do Faz toys do/sell?

Nightcrawler, nah its cool, I'm used to it from hippy - just cant help himself, but he gets as good as he gives Why be scared hippy - do you find old men scary? did you have a bad experience in your youth that your not telling anyone about? go to a catholic school eh? Ahhh, just cant help it. sorry if I offended any catholics. by the way, if anybody wants anything from Japan, James is over there at the moment, so if you ring the shop they can get in touch with him for any special orders - hopefully I got me some Bride brix seats coming:D

I'll jhave a word to him - discount for SAU members! Realistically though, I walked in on recommendation from a guy from work and he did me some good deals without knowing me from a bar of soap. But I will definately put the hard word on him about SAU.

James was with JMS, but is now out on his own. There is a website, but its not very up to date, its an interim one but will be updated when James gets back from Japan, www.d1garage.com Its my first attempt at a website, so any suggestions are good:)

OK this is a shameless plug for a business (mods please dont get too angry) - we gotta get behind the local businesses, 'cos if its good for them, its good for us:) D1 Garage has opened its doors a few weeks ago. Owned by James Vahoumis, he has been around for a while but has decided to give things a shot on his own He's a pretty helpful guy (as is Richard, who is working for him) and has heaps of experience in Japan and australia. I have got a couple of things (twin plate, zorst, pillar pod, guage, cams and cam gears) - he is really competative and has a pretty good range of second hand gear. So if you need something, give them a call (8294 1355) or visit at 120 Mooringe ave N. Plympton. - definately worth a look if your out that way. end plug

FARK Joel, those sites really push home what average performance that aust built cars have been passing. I honestly thought they werent anywhere near that bad. It pretty bloody average. Thanks for those links

you said that you seriously doubt the power gain is 10%..... that was in reference to the lisencing of an upgrade engine??? (sorry if I interperated this wrong) - they are the licensing dept. My 98 ford had from memory 184kw stock - 4L, that is what the factory rated them to the predecessor had something like 168kw. Even the blown v6 that commodore release was well above 160kw, just wondering where you looked up the specs, becuase it seems weird that holden would rate their 5l below fords 4l and their own 3.6 with supercharger.

Joel, do they require dyno printouts for engine power, or just work off what the factory rated the engine at when new? where did you get he power figures from, the 5L figure seems a bit low, as the ford 4L puts out about 180odd kw.

What is the power rating of RB30 to RB20/5/6? Would a twin cam head on the RB30 be taken into consideration as it isnt a factory fitting, so perhaps in theory you could use the power rating of the RB30E as a compro for registation purposes?

hehehehe thats definately the easy way.

Clint, will the adjustable caster rods fit R33?

I think the idea of having tighter springs is to prevent wastegate creep. Sounds like the tension was too high for the boost you had set. BTW how did you loosen the springs? I was under the impression that they are a sealed unit.

About 2 months ago I saw the official determination by the state parliament, which rattifies ADRs for vehicles in SA and regultions for roadworthiness compliance - and with regard to ride height it states that there must be 100mm clearance between the ground and the vehicle, blah, blah ..... No where does it mention that the height must be as stock.

Yep definately a tool, fortunately (sort of) there are even people who are only too willing to manufacture gear that can alert normal people to a tool's presence - like a fake intercooler. Pretty sad in a way, sort of praying on the weak (infirm of mind) and it probably just encourages tool like behaviour - there should be a law, so that if anyone asks for a fake intercooler, or wants to have a BOV fitted on a N/A car etc, they can be sent off for compulsory re-education:) But really - its just too bloody funny

:bahaha: thanks nightcrawler - I love that shit, bloody funny. Robs reaction is a bit funny too...lol

Turbomad, can you please explain to me why performance companies sell wastegate acutators with stronger spings then?

Congrats 25t - time for a beer or 20:)

SeriesIIGTST, stock boost is 7psi, but it is staged from 5psi to 7psi so you dont get the 7psi straight up. I dont know if running an aftermarket exhaust will prevent selecting such a low boost, but give it a try. I wouldnt be in a hurry to put in a weaker wastegate acutator. The reason is that the spring is not stiff enough to hold the wastegate shut against the pressure from the exhaust gasses aka wastegate creep. The net result that you may not be able to wind boost up as far as you like. For example a 14psi actuator will not allow the wastegate to open under 14psi, imagine if you had a 5psi actuator in there, and boost set to 14psi, the EBC has to do all the work between 5psi and 14psi, with a 14 psi actuator, the EBC only starts working when 14psi is reached, or if you were to put a 10 psi acutator with stock boost control, you would get 10 psi straight up the same as if you had an EBC set to 10psi. Turbomad, I think you may have got that one back to front? Big one last night?

Your driving with a leaking reg? Do you want to torch your car. Remeber its the fumes off the petrol that ignite, not the fluid itself. If you are planning on up grades that will required the stretching of the injectors beyond normal flow capacity - then you will need an adjustable, which can be had from O/S for under $200 for nismo. If you are planning to upgrade, but will be doing the injectors - normal reg should be fine. If you have wound the boost above 12psi, and still have the stock ecu you may be experiencing fuel cut.

Think you will find increased off boost response as well - a good port is good across the range - its all about flow

All well and good if you have the extra dollars lying around - Its not just the cost of the port, but also the remove and replace of valves, springs, cams, plenum etc it all adds up - and if its not necessary I personally would sooner have the dollars in my pocket - bloody car cost enough to mod as it is:D

Hmm, well I dont know why you would be getting boost creep on stock trubos - perhaps the wastegate has been plumbed up to the boost solenoid wrong? or you have vacuum leak in pipes between solenoid and actuator? Jurking/shaking could be turbos reaching surge limit - but I dont know what that is for the stock turbos turbos. If it is surge limit, you would hear it too, as the reversion through the compressor is usually noisy. Hopefully your mech can sort things out. Just have to keep your foot away from the carpet for a while Sorry not much help again

Well I think that aftermarket ECUs can run as well as stock ones, but if you go modding too much eventually idle and low rpm will suffer - not much you can do about it as things like bigger cams, injectors, penums optimised for higher rpm etc - it all adds up, which is something alot of people dont seem to realise when they head down the mod path. I am quite sure someone will tell me about a beast of a car that totally disproves the above, but it is just what I have seen and experienced - 0.182c not including GST:)