Steve

Bah, young whipper snapper

BOOSTD, sorry that post wasnt very clear was it. I was just suggesting that with a stock cooler on stock turbo, it is inadvisable to wind boost past about 12psi because of the pressure drop on the stock cooler - as you pointed out. With a stock turbo on FMIC, you can only get another 2.5 psi, because after that the resistance generated by the compressor causes alot of strain on the ceramic turbine, and failure is a matter of time - so the net total boost increase (flow gain) is only a couple of psi - safely. Definately a couple of psi worth having though. As boost pressure is measured from the plenum, the boost seen by the engine is still going to be the same with bigger cooler, it will just be cooler, denser charge. (unless you wind the boost up) I do understand that you were pointing at the huge pressure drop on the stock cooler above 6000prm:) the above figures do not allow for the BOOSTD 'give it 1.1bar till she blows' theory...lol does that make more sense?

Single 2835 produces less than twin 2530s. The 2835 comes in a version with T3 flange and internal gate that would bold onto the stock R33 manifold.

Mark, it always feels alot quicker form the passenger seat:)

rb25, a little off topic, but 8psi seems a bit low for a full turbo back exhaust. Stock boost is 7, with full exhaust I got 9.5psi.

Alot more work to be done on a 250xflow, but that still seems a bit dear - have you thought of just getting an extrusion hone done? the stock heads do work pretty well from the factory. Even may be a bit questionable if you need to do valve springs, unless you intend pushing the redline right. I think that alot of shops try and sell you stuff that you really dont need. As you would have realised by now, you can just keep pouring in the dollars until the cows come home. There must be someone on here that has had some head work done in melbourne, it would be interesting to hear what sort of results have been attained and at what sort of cost.

Complete set of Star Trek videos for sale - all in mint condition, ie the originals series, the next geteration, deep space nine and voyager - 270 odd videos in all (from memory). In Adelaide Offers?

Race port for 60% better flow and $2.5k, dude you really need to take a look at who can do the work for you. Adelaide price, done on flow bench, 70% improvement cost $700. Hillsmotorsport quoted me $895 for a full port including extrusion hone. Perhaps you need to shop interstate, but I am sure there must be better deals around melbourne way.

BOOSTD, yes and no. Most boost controller read boost pressure in the plenum, and adjust the wastegate from that, not before the cooler.

Are you happy with the performance of the car, or do you intend upgrading further. I did use a Z32 when I had this problem, when it was redynoed, I got a better rwkw figure BUT it was done in different states by different tuners so it is hard to compare. They did a before and after dyno, however as soon as you put on a Z32 AFM and select it on the power fc, the mixtures go rich. My injectors went from 78% to 89%, after a retune it was down to 83%. My air flow now only goes to 4.4v, so I have a bit of room left for the turbo going on in a couple of weeks. I have heard arguments for and against. They cant really hurt except the hip pocket as you have to buy one and then get the car retuned. If you are wanting more power, and intend doing further upgrades, I think they are a good idea. Alternately, the Z32 upgrade idea has been discussed in a bit of depth on this forum, perhaps do a search. If you do want a Z32, there are some for sale at the moment for $300 with plug. They are a pretty easy swap.

That is exactly what I am talking about! Now if you go into the etc menu (I think) you can disable the check engine light for the AFM. Take the car out again, and see if it still flashes. Alternately, check on your peak hold and it will show you what is maxing out, but I think this is the problem, esp as your injectors are less than 80% and you dont have any noticeable detonation. 5.1v (or 5.115v if you want to be exact) is max flow on the AFM = check engine light flashes.

The boost control solenoid with the power fc is the same one as used by the avcr. For $331 more than the power fc, that is as good as its going to get. I use one and find it works very well.

To tell the truth, I would be guessing. If it were me, I would probably try 1mm first. But they are a pain to change. Alot of rooting around for a set of plugs.

MRK25T, those dynos look ok to me, nice result acutally. Have you checked your AFM peak voltage yet? The reason I ask is because that is exactly where mine hit 5.1v (max flow) when I first fit and tuned my power fc. If your car is idling fine at 600 dont worry about it, I think stock is 660 rpm if my memory serves. If it isnt idling correctly, take it back to the guys that tuned it. If you must mess with it, the idle is in the settings menu. Just remeber you may have to adjust the deceleration fuel cut recovery rpm first (setting above the idle setting), as you have to have at least 100 rpm between it and the idle.

Cooler air is denser. Also, as it is cooler it will allow you to run a bit more timing as you are less likely to have detonation.

If you do it from a standing start, its not drift, its a burnout. Sounds like you havent driven a car with little traction - I'm not talking about throttle steer.

Cost less than $20 for a set of 6. If you just ask for NGK BCPR6ES for .08mm gap, or BCPR6ES-11 (I think) for 1.1mm gap.

Please give us a run down on how you would achieve this. Have you driven a 250rwkw skyline with sock suspesion and wheels? Dude, even with 200rwkw and a decent power band, you will have dramas with stock wheels and suspension. 250rwkw would be an absolute danger to yourself and everyone else on the road. IMO, this is one way you end up with lethal cars on the road, building an engine, but not taking care of the rest - very, very dangerous. Beside that, what would be the point in having a car that if you try and drive it at any more than old mole pace, you just go around in circles. I have seen this done with a old ford 351 GT. The novelty runs out pretty quickly when your car cant safely be taken out of the street and into traffic. Have you ever tried to corner a car (from a stand still) that has no traction? But please Predator, I would be really interested in hearing how you could achieve what you are suggesting.

Link? Cheers

Do you have a name of a place where the flush fitting boots can be sourced? I would love one of those with a C-west wing

Dude, I am with INASNT - you've got an upgraded turbo, but pushing numbers that are below the top potential of even a stock turbo. Get a decent cooler, will make a huge difference.

Good luck, hope the turbo holds.

Name: Bob (ok its really Steve:) ) Car: Red R33 series 1 Loc: northern burbs Job: Govt (Navy) Stuff I enjoy: My kids, martial arts, beers, eating chops , music blah blah.

Dude, do a search, all your questions will be answered. Hope you got 6-10k spare. As for exhaust being quiet, dont want to chop front bar, all possible, but it will cost you power to some degree. Your choice. Wheels? stock wheels are good for a stock car.

This subject has been covered heaps, perhaps do a search