Steve

Probably 1K minimum. They are all in mint condition and it is the entire collection, original series, next generation, deep space nine and voyager. All episodes from all the series. Hippy, if I wasnt selling them, I would probably lend them to you, but I would like to keep them in pristine condition. You would probably need a month in from of the tv to watch all of these:)

300rwkw for 4K, I wish life was so kind. You have cooler and exhaust, you will need: Clutch (twin plate) $1200 plus fitting Injectors $1k Fuel pump $300 plus fit ECU fitted and tuned $1.5k plus EBC $500 Turbo $2k fit turbo(new lines) $500 New manifold $1200+ Dump pipe $350 Wastegate (perhaps depends on turbo) $5-700 Pipe from pod to turbo $150 Fuel pressure reg $150 Now you have a problem with either: Rebuild bottom end inlcuding remove and replace engine: $7k+ or Head gasket to decompress engine $600+ Fit head gasket $300. It would also be nice to do the cams and cam gear, add $1.5k This is without upgrading any suspension or wheels which you will definately need to do. You could probably get away without major brake upgrades, but expect to need some decent pads and upgrade your brake fluid to dot 5.1 Add another $1.5k plus. If you want to maximise your $4k - get some decent coilovers, and swaybars. Any power you make can be optimised by getting it to the ground well, without decent suspension you will find with 300rwkw, that cars with much lower power will hand you your arse. Get a decent ECU - power fc, or if you want cheaper, the e-manage is cheap enough that you can get it fitted and tuned for about 1.5k. Add an EBC and you will have a different car. You would probably at this stage be wise to do your clutch, IF it is still holding, it wont for long. A button clutch should do the trick, or an upgraded organic - hopefully, if you shop around, your funds might just cover this much.

I thought about e-bay, the only problem is that I have the entire collection for sale, original series through to voyager - well over 200 videos, so postage may be a pain and I would like to sell them locally if possible. Yes, I do like star trek, but I acutally got them off my brother. He was moving house and had only watched them once so gave them to me.

Completely unrelated, anybody know where I can sell some star trek videos?

225kw with stock turbo! 1.1bar with stock turbo!!!! you're a very brave man:)

thanks for posting it up, I was sort of hoping datalogit had finally got their shit sorted with a gtst version. Probably almost more work putting together the charts than the acutal fc programming!

Is this from the fc-datalogit software, or did you go through and write out the individual values your self? cheers Steve

make sure you let us know what the problem is, I am betting from your comment about the oil temp that warmer range plug would fix the prob. My understanding though is that warmer plug is more prone to knock at higher revs/load. There is always a trade off somewhere.

Hmm, thats 'supposed' to be a bit over its efficiency rating. Theory vs the real world at work

If you are going low mount, Uniques have one on their website. Also, trust do a stainless one, but expensive.

Well, purely from a theoretical point, a misfire can cause a back fire, but over fuelling, eg on gear shifts if running a stock ecu or worse a ext venting bov as well. If your plugs are fouled, a good thrash is one way to clean them (thats the way I used to do it many, many years ago ). If you are running from map without closed loop, there is a good chance you will be running rich when at cruise and part throttle. Fouled plugs, may cause the car to feel like it is hesitating. Also, I am starting to stretch into the unknown here, but what heat range and gap are you running? Does this only occur when the car is hot or cold or both? Any more info could be helpful. RB26DETT needs to be thrashed? Not unless it has been played with. Dont think any jap company would put a car into mass production that didnt have impecable manners as a daily driver.

NGK coppers in mine and they work fine. I am using BCPR6ES gapped at 0.8mm (stock is 1.1). That is one heat range cooler than stock as well.

Think about 9psi is standard for cat back, 7psi is stock. So its pretty close, but if you can accurately read a guage with only a couple of lines over the entire range you're doing pretty well:)

the hybrid 300x600x76 is supposed to support 600hp at 2 psi drop - thats well over 300rwkw

FAT32, RB20 + HKS2530 = slightly off topic being a RB20 (SLY want RB25) so pm sent, cost definately under 4K new in australia if you know where to look:)

Cant quantify this response with a kw figure, as I didnt do before and after dynos. What I can do is give you a seat of the pants idea of what happened when I fitted a coola. I had already fitted a powerfc, but it wasnt tuned as the cooler was going in and I didnt want to pay for tunes twice. I fitted a 300 x 600 x 76 hybrid (sydney) coola. As soon as I drove the car - on the way to the dyno before the power fc was tuned - I noticed when I put the foot down the usual urge was gone - because I was frying the clutch The difference was pretty amazing. By the time I got too the dyno, trying to drive gently in traffic, the clutch was smoking. The dyno was only successful to a point as with boost at 0.85 bar. Can only say that I found it an excellent upgrade, with no down side - greatly improved response and power. Didnt notice any increase in lag. I can only recommend it. Steve

Bought one off a guy on the performance forums for about $390 from memory. He also is selling other bosch pumps at really good prices. I asked one of the guys off the SAU forum, who could get wholesale, and he said it was about as good as he could get them for. Would be worth a look. Oh, and it took less than a week to be delivered.

My afm was maxing out (at 4500rpm) with less than 200 rwkw. And I am not the only one. My check engine light used to flash every time I hit 4500 with the throttle floored. Fixed it with a Z32 afm - now voltage only reaches 4.45. The power fc can have the check engine light flash for a few different reasons, afm, injectors, knock. If you go into your monitor mode with peak hold selected, take the car for a drive, and when you get the check engine light BACK OFF straight away. Then check all your different parameters - something will probably show up. If it is your afm, everything should be ok - ie not urgent to upgrade afm - as long as the tuning was done with an oxygen sensor attached, your af ratios wont be too lean, especially if you are not registering excessive knock. Steve

Perhaps someone had a heavy duty drag clutch in there during a previous life? Seems a bit wierd on a mild pressure plate?

Great to hear it all finally paid off. If you get the chance, post some pics up - always nice to see a unique project come together. Perhaps even a few words on what to watch out for, just incase there is anybody else out there planning a similar engine upgrade. Cheers Steve

Really sorry about the clutch, as for turbo, have a look: http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bblist.p...rand=HKS#engine they are $2950 for the 2835PRO 56T, I dont think shipping from japan to aus would be $50.

Oops, perhaps a typo there? Neg caster? I have 1.5deg neg camber with the the car lowered 30mm - that is what I meant by ok, from my understanding, it is only when you start dropping the ride hieght much over 30mm that camber starts to drift too far. Besides, if you upgrade your swaybar, doesnt this reduec the need (to a degree) for neg camber as it reduces body roll and therefore a change in the geometry during cornering. I also found a front strut brace helped in this are too. I managed to get 7.5deg pos caster with poly bushes, and at 200 fitted, its alot cheaper than fitting adjustable rods, but I as they say 'you cant have too much caster':)

Oil squirters help cool the pistons, even in a mild tune, cooling the pistons cant be a bad thing?

INASNT, the 2835 uses a GT25 inlet flange on the turbine, so just and adaptor, or the 2835Pro has a T3 inlet flange on the turbine so just bolt straight up.

Garrett make the turbos for HKS, but the specs are only available to HKS, so as previously mentioned, the garrett copy wont be quite the same. the specs for the turbos are here: http://www.hksusa.com/categories/more.asp?id=1092 but they dont publish the compressor maps. the quoted hp rating on the above chart is at 1 bar and is approx 10% below actual figures - thing to remeber though is that the figures are purely for the turbo, and dont allow for things like intercoolers and pipework etc. But it sould give you a guide. If you were to look at the 3037 kit that HKS do, the turbine AR ratio that is used is 0.87, so close to that would probably be fine. Realistically though, you could get a HKS 2835 direct from japan, brand new, in whatever spec you wanted and it would probably cost less than 3K. The 2835 should easily make 250rwkw. To give you an example, a guy I know with an RB20 is making 230rwkw with a 2530 on 1.2 bar with FMIC and 3" exhaust and pod - everything else stock. It comes on boost quite early, and it will shread the tyres in third just by popping the clutch (hes into drift) With a 2835 on a 2.5L you would get alot better mid range too. Just thought I would help add to the confusion:)