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Steve

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Everything posted by Steve

  1. Tuner is very important. Here in Adelaide, I have tried to investigate the functionallity of the 3DV4.51??? NO ONE has a bloody clue about the ECU with regards to an R33. I even rang a distributor, and he couldnt tell me squat just that it was a plug and play. He also told me that it only had basic ECU functionality such as fuel and timing - no sequential idle, couldnt tell me if it batch fired or not, just had no idea. Even on the wolf website, I could find no mention of the plug and play or even the wolf 3DV4.5. So do make sure your tuner is comfortable and competant with the ecu before you buy it or you could be throwing money away.
  2. And the 6k+ is for a second hand donk.
  3. Sorry 25t, this is where I got the info from: 'The RB25 twin cam head's variable inlet cam timing can be retained on the RB30 block by teeing off the oil pressure galley on the head and feeding the standard RB25 piston mechanism. This pushes the camshaft through a full 10 degree advance. All oil and coolant galleries mate up perfectly, with the exception of this cam advance unit.' the above was from http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0004 . After reading this, I did some more investigation and was told it was as simple as drilling a hole in the RB30 block to align with the oil galley for the NVCS by more than one source. Any chance of some photos?
  4. Yes, true, but think about this: my car runs 12.5psi has a stock turbo and makes boost from 2000rpm full boost by 2500 and 203 rwkw peak, You have 120rwkw at 4500, I make 120rwkw at about 3300rpm, by 4500 I am making 165 rwkw. By the time your engine is making 160kw, mine has made 190. It takes you nearly 1000 rpm to make your 9.5psi, I can get 12psi in about half that and it starts 1500 rpm earlier. Which setup, if both were fitted to the same car do you think would make a quicker car? Now, if you could make 12.5psi by 3000rpm...
  5. GT28 recoed??? thought you couldnt reco a garrett bb turbo. Just make sure the exhaust A/R ratio isnt too big. Probably wouldnt want to go larger than a 0.87 - but if its really cheap, it just buy a smaller turbine housing.
  6. Usually on the compressor or front housing, and the exhaust or turbine housing. Turbine housing is pretty important to determining when a turbo will come on boost, the smaller the housing, the sooner the boost comes on - the trade off being you wont have as much top end. The sort of power you are making is easily acheivable with a stock turbo, but they tend to come on boost just over 2K with a good exhaust setup. If I had to guess, I would say that your exhaust AR ratio is a little on the large side. EDIT: also the T04E isnt a small turbo for a 2.5
  7. Do you know what the turbo's A/R ratios are? That sounds a little laggy esp as your not pushing out huge hp.
  8. sidewaymambo, what sort of other mods did buster's car have, also do you know when did it start making boost, come on full boost etc? Cheers Steve
  9. Perhaps, but you know what they say, the dog that barks the loudest isnt the one that will bite. Rob, perhaps you should change your nick to 'gullable' as you said in your post, then no one would ever challenge what you say and you could be happy.
  10. Caught me out again hippy:)
  11. Detonation, which can be caused by many different things. There is a thread on here called boost and piston damage, may be worth a read, can explain it better than I can in one post.
  12. Rob, if you want to read something and then parrot it, stating that something is so, perhaps you should be big enough to wear it.. Statements like the one above show a lack of maturity, perhaps you would be well to remeber that if you say something be prepared for it to be challenged. There is a difference between saying 'I read that this turbo can do this' and 'this turbo does this'. Be a man and stand by your words, not hide behind someone else.
  13. Ture TIMMAYYY, but not everyone has been enlightened.
  14. Hey hippy, releasing stuff from your private collection now:D Hmmmm.....fat chicks. Nozilla, pretty sure you can turbo just about anything. Civic Vtec, they are pretty quick for a NA off the showroom floor, with a turbo, no doubt it would move.
  15. Thanks Sydneykid, yeah I knew head gaskets would hit a raw nerve:D The only problem seems to be that the aftermarket gaskets dont come in 86mm bore, very confusing. Could you tell me how much it would cost to get the combustion chamber resized? Also what sort of effect would this have on the flow of the head? I was under the impression that it can be dangerour to start messing with its (CC) design? I take it this would involve stripping the head down first? The reason I am thinking head gasket is as a quick fix, they only cost $350 odd, and another $300 to lift the head. I do know people who have had good results from this sort of thing, and the engines have run well for years. Cheers Steve
  16. I read somewhere that factory RB26 pistons are forged, and are good for up to 550+bhp. If there is no problem with the CR, they might be a reasonable alternative to aftermarket forgies if not chasing huge hp. Also they have holes in the bottom for oil cooling, would they have and adverse effect on stregth if not bein cooled by the squirters?
  17. True, do you know how much the NVCS adjusts timing by. On the power fc, peak hold gets states the timing advances something like 40 odd degrees, cant remeber exactly, but its not a small figure.
  18. Thanks for the first link. I think it may explain the magical gasket/bore indiscrepancy. It gives different compression ratios when different size gaskets are used on an 86mm bore, eg the 1.5mm 87mm bore gasket gives a 8.2:1 CR when used with 86mm pistons, but the 1.5mm 88mm bore gasket gives a 8.3:1 CR. Looks like the 1.2mm is the go, gives an 8.6:1 CR - just above RB26 CR, and its the cheapest of the lot. It is interesting that they have a gasket that gives an RB25DE a 8.9:1 CR - might interest those contemplating a DE to DET conversion! Cant make any more sense than you of the second link, but at 2400 a set, I think they are a little pricey? Certainly out of my league.
  19. Its nice to know I'm not alone. Have just checked Meggala's site, states the bore IS 86mm, so why dont any of the Japanese gaskets have 86mm bore size. Do they have some sort of 'squish' factor reckoned in? Very confusing
  20. Nitriding is treating the metal to harden it (I think). It only affects the outer layer of the metal, and increases its strenght which is why you wouldnt grind a nitrided crank. Apparently (from what I have read) kryogenically treating components can have a greater increase in strength - more so than nitriding.
  21. Hi, Just wondering if anyone can tell me what the bore of an RB25DET is - exactly. I was under the impression it is 86mm, but after investigating headgaskets, it appears the Japanese companies make them in a range of sizes, some 88mm, some 87mm, some 87.5mm but none 86mm bore size. I am planning on decompressing slightly, so I can wind the boost up with stock internals (Sydneykid, I know what you would be thinking!). I have decided to give this a shot, see how long the engine lasts and then drop in a 3L when/if I blow it up:D Cheers Steve
  22. If you want to see the effect of removing the NVCS, just unplug it for a while:)
  23. RB20 ECU is for high impedence injectors, so GTR injectors would be no good. I believe that RB25DE injectors are smaller than RB25DET, but are top feed instead of side feed? RB20 injectors are only 270cc according to Meggala's site. If a turbo is making full boost by 3500 on a 2.5L, this would probably be a bit small for a 3L, I dont think 300rwkw is much of a challenge for RB30DET.
  24. Yeah well, shed definately get it....before you say anything hippy, yes I am a dirty old bastard - already established that, just living up to my rep.
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