Steve

They tend to start running out of puff once you get over 200rwkw (dyno dynamics dyno).

lestreme, One of the guys off this forum is running mid 9 1/4mile with a 3L engine and twin HSK 2835R turbos - pumping out about 900hp. He was trying to sell them recently too (check the 4sale) about $3600USD for the pair.

This site: http://www.transport.sa.gov.au/publication...pdfs/Info19.pdf States you suspension must have 2/3rds of the travel of the suspension fitted by the manufacturer. This site: http://www.parliament.sa.gov.au/dbsearch/d...IGHT_HITS=False State you must have 100mm clearance to the ground, and that window tinting is not to allow less than 70% of the light through, or 35% for the back windows, blah, blah. They are both govt sites, but I would be ringing up regency and asking where the new legislation (to the 1999 road rules) is that states imports have to be stock. I think perhaps he is refering to the new compliance laws for grey imports, which state that the cars have to be stock.????

I heard somewhere (cant remeber where) that the cat is totally useless after about 70000kms anyways

Sorry for the bad new Hippy. You (and all) have a great easter also. Double demerits has been operating in other states for some time now (like 50kph limits). Spose it was just a matter of time:mad: Must admit it is kinda funny when someone looses there liscence in one hit - As long as its not yourself:)

Way to go Cheeky girl. What was the total list of problems that had to be fixed in the end? Anyways, good to hear the Cheeky line is back in business

Have you guys got a boost cut defender or aftermarket ecu? as the stock ecu will cut ignition at about 12psi. Just a thought, it might be boost cut. I am running NGK BCPR6ES (pre gapped at 0.8mm) with 200 odd rwkw and I can just keep winding the boost up (most I have used is 1 bar - its a stock turbo) but haven't had a problem.

AFMs arent that expensive. IF you need to replace it. I would have a go at cleaning if first. Couldnt hurt even if it isnt the problem, but it does sound O2 sensor more than afm. Just get a can of carby cleaner (the type that doesnt leave a residue), costs less than $10. Then remove your afm and give it a quick squirt. I did mine after having only done about 50000kms, and at the time, before I cleaned it, it was filthy. Definately idled better after I cleaned it. Second hand, I sold my AFM for $50, which is probably a bit on the cheap side, but you should be able to pick one up for $100 without too much difficulty.

Think it has a lot to do with when they are made? Ie complience with emissions

I believe HKS turbos flow 10% higher than quoted at 1 bar. This is not on a car though - this is in a test environment. The HKS turbos operate at there optimum at around 1.5 bar. Merli has stated he is making 280rwkw on a 3040, but I am not sure how much boost he is using to do it. There is a SR20 getting around with 300rwkw on a 3037S. Munros 3L makes 900 odd hp (I think) with twin 2835Rs.

Nate, I have heard it is like a $10,000 fine if you dont have a cat. Have also heard that taking to the internals of a cat with a hammer, or welding in a piece of pipe through the middle will have a similar result to a de-cat pipe. R31 Chick, 2 cats! thats just plain greedy:)

How many amps is the EBC rated at? If you connect into a circuit, you need to make sure that you dont overload it by having either too large a fuse (a power surge may result in damage to EBC) or combine current drawing from both devices results in fuses being blown (exceeding the max amperage the fuse is rated at). If you have an inline fuse on the EBC, then you can connect the power to the live side of the fuse box. Test this by pulling a fuse and then connecting the wire to either side in turn, when you get power, you got the live side. Ground, have a look at where your stereo is earthed, should be a good spot.

How is a maf restrictive? An 80mm hole will flow a lot of air, or if you need 90mm - you could use an infinity AFM with a power fc. Only good for idle, what about af metering on cruise? Doesnt MAF use closed loop = better for part throttle and cruising? Also, if you upgrade a turbo, MAF would be better, ie you dont need to immediately retune before you drive as MAP measures only pressure not volume of air flow (different turbos flow diffent volumes at the same pressure). I am not saying MAP is bad, just pros and cons for both. I believe I have seen some pretty huge hp cars out of Japan running power fc. From what people have been saying, the new wolf 3d v4 sounds pretty tasty - in the past they have been an entry type ecu, but the new one sounds sweet. Autronic is made by one of the developers for Motec (he split from the company), it is a bit dearer than a wolf - but would be very hard to fault as an ecu The power fc provides full stock ecu functionality, very easy to tune and are also a tried and tested (and very effective) ecu. At the end of the day - if you are not intending to tune the car yourself, speak to your workshop and ask what they recommend, and what they can deliver with that ecu. another 2cents worth.

A catch can or oil/air seperator will also prevent oil vapour from coating the inside of the coola - this will reduce the coola's efficiency. When I got a front mount, i noticed that the inlet side of the stock one had a black film on it - not good. MIght be worth considering too, that if you fit a catch can that vents to amosphere (rather than plumbing back) it is illegal from an emissions point of view.

docile, I just have to throw in a couple of words for Jash and C-red. I have dealt with them a bit when I was in the west, and you will get great service after the sale as well. I spent a bit of cash on my car after I bought it, and all the guys down there were very free with the advice and did me some great deals with parts and tuning etc, - was always a pleasure dealing with them. Just my 0.02 PS - I am not a WA local anymore, so I hope no one gets upset me posting here. Just had some really good experiences dealing with C-red.

Try this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ighlight=Plenum there are a few pics in there (the search function does work well:) ) Steve

There is a company in sydney ( I think? ) called hybrid. I have one of their coolas and I am very happy. As soon as it went on my clutch died a horrible death. After sorting out the clutch, with a power fc, ebc, pod and exhaust I made 203rwkw on tilbrooks dyno with a totally stock series 1 turbo at 0.85bar boost, and stock fuel system - injectors getting a bit lean though. It is a 600 x 300 x 76 bar and plate rated to 650hp with a 2psi drop. It may be a bit big for your applications, but they may make smaller ones. the reason I say all this is that the coola cost $800 new, which is alot cheaper than imported stuff.

If you want a T4, have a look at whatsisnames setup, 13psi boost and pushing out over 250rwkw. If you do a search, he has posted up who built it for him, I think it was tony rigoli performance. Another option would be to pick up a HKS2835 or similar - Munro is selling one off his 9sec R33 for 3K. You will of course have to up grade your fuel pump and get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator or larger injectors. You will also have to upgrade your clutch and AFM. If you havent done your exhaust, that will need attention also. Another thing, what isthe supra front mount rated at? Hp and psi drop? Also an aftermarket panel filter or pod wouldnt go astray. Not sure who you should speak to locally for your power fc or tuning, try the state forum. I bought my power fc second hand, and saved a fair bit on new, so that might be worth looking into. If you cant pick one up locally, Hikari in adelaide have them pretty regularly from about 1100 and 400 for a hand controller. Steve

Thats up to the EL falcon I think, AU are different

No - wish it did:(

I have seen external gates 35mm to 55mm, 45 seems pretty common though.

My understanding is that the problem is wastegate creep - before you have reached the desired boost, the wastegate starts to open slowing down spoolup time. It will, to best of my understanding depend to a large degree on what sort of wastegate acutator you use - eg HKS have heavy duty ones that tend to stay shut harder and for longer. Also how much boost you will be using to reach your desired power, as 250kw at 1 bar boost is going to be alot easier to control than 250KW at 1.5 bar boost - with an internal gate. So if you can afford it, an external gate should be the prefered option if you want optimum performance from your turbo. More accurate boost control and quicker spoolup - as a rule anyways. Whatsisname's car is putting down close to the figures (just above) that you are quoting, perhaps he would be worth dropping an pm - see what setup he is running and what he thinks of it. Hmm, think I rambled on a bit there. Steve

yes it is, Your mechanic is right - a correctly tuned ECU will stop the popping. There are alot of good locally made ECUs, Microtech, Autronic, Wolf 3D - if your mechanic recommends a power fc - that is what I would be getting - it is a very good unit and will run everything on your car like the stock computer and give you alot more power.

the base maps are conservative, so you should be right from when you plug it in - as long as you reset (in the etc menu). you can use any boost controller, just make sure after the reset, that you turn the boost control option off or you will get a fault with the power fc - it looks for the boost controller and cant find one. As for tuning - I would suggest you check with whoever is doing the tuning as to whether they can tune it or not. Cant remeber the website, but apexi have a usa website that has a bit of info on these units and its in english - including a pdf of the manual (for a RX7 but you get the idea). Another option is to use the power fc boost controller and sell your HKS unit - might even be a bit cheaper. EDIT: just out of interest, why do you want to run a single coil pack?

stock wheel offsets are on meggala's site