Steve

Thanks Meggala, I can see where you are coming from. I think I agree with Benm too though. At the end of the day, track times, dyno figures, terminal speeds all have variables that makes it impossible to compare, unless you put two cars on the same dyno, same day, same mode. Even then, most people only compare peak hp, which tells nothing about driveability. Seems a shame that more attention isnt paid to the torque curve - and you'd end up with the same problem there too - different dynos, conditions etc Even with ET and TS, some people blame tracks being stickier on a particualar day, humidity, temp etc....where does it end? Just my 0.02

Why is it a joke?

Rev, a very valid point, in my last post I mentioned that you need to allow for driveline loss - but that is definatley worth mentioning seperately as I think alot of people overlook that one. Cheers Steve

INASNT, this is HKS website info on their turbos: http://www.hksusa.com/categories/more.asp?id=1092 They rate their 2530 at 320ps, with allowing about 10% for their known underating, makes 352ps - that is flywheel. Assuming standard driveline loss for GTS-t, 80ps (or it might be 70 but close enough for demonstration), leaves you with 272ps at the treads. Pretty close to 200rwkw! The 2530 is pretty popular on GTRs, but they use 2 not 1. These are HKS's own figures. You probably could get more, but how efficient would the turbo be operating. If you are after that sort of power (200rwkw), the stock turbo will do fine. If you upgrade, and want 250rwkw you will have to look at something like the GT2835. Two on Munros car was making 900hp- 450 a piece. Subtract 80 for driveline loss and you have370rwhp - about 270kw. This will allow you to run lower boost to achieve your 250rwkw, and still have a bit of head room. I realise you dont want to go external wastegate, but consider the advantages of going down that path. Your car will make boost quicker and will have very good boost control. You can pick up a external wastegate for under $300, and either a second hand manifold for up to $800 or you could get a mount made up to adapt a wastegate to the stock manifold - might be an added $300 but i doubt it would cost that much. Then another $300 for a dump pipe. Not the best setup, but you will get the power you are after easily. I really do think you are barking up the wrong tree with the 2530, and in the end it will just end up costing more to get it replaced when you dont get what you want. Your cheapest option would be get a good highflow, somewhere like GCG that has proven results at a reasonable price. If your workshop tells you that you can get the results you want with a 2530 - get it in writing before commencing work and find out what sort of other considerations need be made - I would especially be interested in how much boost they would be needing - too much and you will have to decompress the engine which will kill off boost driveability. Also once you have got the head decompressed, you may find it would have been cheaper to get the right turbo in the first instance. Its always nice to find the best most economical way to get performance from your car, sure you can pick up some bargains, but make sure you get the right piece of kit at the right price, not the wrong bit at a great price. It will only cost you more down the track - do it right the first time. Please dont think I am having a go, just hate to see someone make an expensive mistake. Just trying to add something worthwhile - if you want good performance it does cost dollars. Steve:)

Thanks Miss*33. Have you seen much of their work? Most important part is good work, not too worried about price as I am a great believer in getting what you pay for - the odd lucky bargain buy aside:) Cheers Steve

Pops, I would HIGHLY recommend you get the front and dump either heat wrapped, ceramic coated or HPCed - as without the stock pipe and heat sheilding you will notice a large in crease in engine bay temps. Plus as an added bonus, coating/wrapping can only increase cylinder scavanging (if it does, not too sure - but it wont hurt). The reason I recommend this first is its an absolute PITA to try and do it on the car (heat wrap), or remove from the car to get it done. I did it the hard way:( Some food for thought Steve

Thats a great price, almost wish I was in the market for one.

Hi again, Well its just about time to get the rear bar tied into the skirts, and perhaps change the front bar as its starting to give me the shits. Can anybody recommend a shop? Prefer a place that supplied, fitted and painted. Or if not a good paint shop as I have this not too easy to match colour - red. Well it mightn't be too hard, but a couple of shops in WA couldnt get it right. Also if anybody has had any bad experiences, could you drop me a pm - dont want to go upsetting anybody. Thanks for your time Steve

dabigbolf, twin turbos on an RB25! how did it go? Steve

you got pm

russcb007 Different bore size between RB26 and RB20 for starters, wouldnt have a clue what other problems you would face, but in short, it is not a direct fit. Subzero have a website, they will supply direct. Steve

I have heard (romour mill) that the same guy who originally designed Motec computers started his own business - called it autronic. anyone else heard of this?? Steve

whatsisname, didnt autech do 4 door GTRs as well? the ultimate group transport:)

Got Boost - I am pretty sure they need to be series 5 to be high impedance, cheers anyways. GODSND - I have acutally discovered a place that I can get 6 sard 550 or 850 injectors for 800 brand new - which I think might just end up being the go.

Kaos, another option would be autronic, if I am not mistaken, it is a bit cheaper than Motec. I have seen some very tough skylines (track vehicles) using autronic with some impressive results. Just a thougth

Advancing the timing too much can cause problems - detonation. I would be taking the car back, and dont go too hard until you are sure this isnt happening. Having said that there can be alot of different causes of poor idle - but if this has only just occured after the tune - thats the first thing I would be cheching. How much advance are you actually running.

Have you got pics and description? cheers

Merli, I think you bring up an intersting subject. It seems to me that the japanese are so secretive, it is sometimes difficult to know what they do - which is probably the way they want it. On the other hand, this creates rumour that is sometime hard to prove or disprove, and it would be nice to know what is going on. I have heard the same about pistons in japan as sydneykid, from BIG name performance shops in australia, but in keeping with the guidelines of this forum, I am hesitant to name them, so I suppose all you can do is take it for what it is worth - heresay. How are you supposed to trust someone who doesnt put there cards on the table, yes they do get some fantastic results, but I really believe it borders on paranoia at times. Just my 0.02

Dude, really sorry. did your mate have imobiliser/alarm fitted? I really hate thieving pr1cks (and car vandals, but thats another story) - hope they get done, I will definately be keeping an eye out. Steve

Not too sure about taxes, have you had a chat to customs. From most of the feedback I have read, it seems that if it is under $1000AUD they dont seem to worry a heap - never know for sure though. I did get my turbo through, but the guy at the other end put it down as about $380AUD - they opened it for inspection, but didnt hit me any duty. I will drop them a line, and ask about quantity for group discount and unit weight. Steve

GTS-t VSPEC, costs: http://www.greenline.jp/info.php says: The following table indicates the shipping costs to Zone 2, which includes Australia, New Zealand, USA, Canada and any country in Europe. For other countries, please contact [email protected] Base rate (up to 1 kg) ¥3990 For each 500g more than 1 kg ¥525 Works out at about $55AUD for the first kg (ouch), but $14.50 for every kg there after, which is a bit better. when were you thinking of getting these? Soonish I hope. I'm after 1 (for now - maybe 2 later), and wouldn't mind jumping on the group buy bandwagon Cheers Steve

I think I have learnt more from this thread than the combination of many more previously. Thanks all who have contributed. Sydneykid, in your reply to KAOS, you talk about using 10.5mm lift. Would this require changing to solid lifters? Also are there any piston/valve clearance considerations? Also, What are the advantages of solid lifters v's hydraulics and vice versa - there seems to be alot of view around of 'solid are best' or 'I prefer hydraulic lifters' but I have never understood why exatctly. the only info I have ever found was that solids were better for high revs, stronger valve springs and higher lifts? Is this right? MIK GTR, I think I know where you were coming from, what I was wondering myself. With a conservative tune, just when do the pistons start saying enough? thanks again to all, some great reading. KAOS, it would be good to hear what you are doing with the build and decisions made, lessons learnt. Not too many people go the whole nine yards, I am sure it will be interesting Cheers Steve

GTS-t VSPEC, another price option: http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bcpartli...ntake=FI#engine works out at about $130aus each + postage, they also have cheap camshafts and injectors. I asked about discount for group buys, and the reply was that it is possible. Steve

Thanks Warpspeed, so when going up in turbo size, as I will be very shortly, would it be fair to say I should get the car going with the turbo first, look at where boost is being made before sizing up the cams., or is it possible to calculate when looking at the turbine A/R ratio? I have heard it is a good idea to look at the head flow characteristics first too (which will be done during the port etc). Thanks again Steve (more bloody quesitons)

Thanks BigDatto, an interesting read.