Steve

Hi, Just after some thoughts, what do people thing of the pros and cons of 1 cam gear (exhaust) versus 2 cam gears on an RB25DET. Would be especially interested to hear comments from anyone who has done the exhaust side first and later done the inlet side, but any ideas/experiences/thoughts are very welcome. I am looking at making upto about 600bhp. What will be the affect of loosing VVT with a higher hp engine? What will be the gains. Also are there any thoughts on what cams would optimise the use of cam gears, bearing in mind that I am after torque, not peak hp, and this car will be a daily driver capable of handling heavy traffic as well as the more spirited stuff. All ideas are welcomed, thanks for your time Steve:)

Rev210, I am using BCPR6ES gapped at 0.8mm. They seem to do a better job than the stock ones that were in there. dont have any probs up to 7250rpm @1bar boost or pulling from low revs in a high gear. Idle quality is good and starts well. I am very pleased with them. 'For my old ported chooker it was 6's for traffic driving (don't fowl easy)'.....hehehehe dont know if a pun was intended, but I found it amusing anyways:)

I have heard of them, but never heard any reports as to relaibility etc. Crosser, I think you got it in one there.

Do you have any sort of idea of price?

Do you know who supplies these, very interesting

Thanks for all the replies, Clears things up nicely, and somewhat of a relief, as I was intending on going over 1 bar, with everything else sorted of course:) Cheers Steve GTS-t VPEC, have you been watching a star wars vids of late? 'high boost will not the piston damage'...j/k

Hi, I am a bit confused here (nothing new, no cheap shots please unless you really feel you have to). I have heard alot of 'if you are running stock pistons, you cant turn the boost up over xxxpsi (usually about 14psi), because you will put holes in the pistons'? I was under the impression that damage to pistons was usually due to detonation which 'may' be caused by excessive boost. How can boost pressure (eg 14 psi is safe, 15psi and you will have a hole in your piston) be true. It just doesnt seem to add up. WHAT AM I MISSING? I would be interested to hear comments for and against, anyone had experience running over 1 bar boost with stock pistons? Thanks for any input. Steve

Thanks Peewee, I was planning on doing that as a last option, just thought if anyone here wants to get rid of some would be just as good and help out a forum member. Steve

Hi, I am after high impedence 550+cc injectors, can be side or top feed to suit an RB25. I am in adelaide. Cheers Steve

Killer T, First Line: 100/100/100/101/102/103/101/100/100/101/103/101/100/115/119/125/125/125/125/125 Second line is the same third line: 100/100/99/101/97/102/100/.....there after as for line one and two. A bit different from yours, I am running a Z32 AFM as well, so that may be influencing things. My AF ratios are a pretty constant 12.3:1 and I get no detonation even on hot days running 0.85bar boost.

kidd, the best computer in the world is no more than a paperweight if you cant programme/tune it

does it hunt when you start up, or only when coming back from revs - eg when slowing down. I had this problem - two things caused it. At idle, it was vacuum leaks - really small ones, check your hose clamps and visually check all hoses that come off the plenum - I found many, clamps that were a bit loose and old deteriorating hoses, replaced them and all is good. I think the power fc may be a bit sensitive. Secondly I had trouble coming back from revs. This was to do with the idle being incorrectly set and the accelleration fuel cut recovery rpm being incorrectly set. These settings worked on mine (sorted the problem out) Idle ac off : 700 Idle ac on: 710 Decel...ac off: 1100 Decel...ac on: 1300 Just a couple of other things to check.

Matt, not a bad result, plenty of people out there would be happy with a flat 13. Shame you couldnt hook up well, thats a pretty good TS! why do you think you should go 4500 off the line? you got better 60' at 3000?. Just curious, I have never attempted the 1/4 myself:) Congrats again Steve

400HP, if you reset the power fc after installing, it should be fine to drive as the initial settings are quite rich to prevent any troubles when you first intall them - even on austraian fuel. Also as mentioned, unless you have the boost controller attached, make sure you switch it off in the etc? menu.

I had a few minor probs with idle, can you be more specific? Was it hunting, stalling? What were the idle settings?

R33NT, I had a similar problem after fitting a custom dump and had the heat shielding removed from the turbo. Underbonnet temps skyrocketed once the car was warm, even on cold days. I then heat wrapped the dump and still had detonation problems. When I got the car on the dyno they pulled a bit of timing and tweaked the AF ratios, now no detonation even on 40deg+ days, and a much more responsive car to drive. I know what you mean about the intake pipe, the temp increase will not (from the research I have done) effect the intake temp as the air moves through the piping too quickly to be sufficiently heated to cause detonation. You may get some effect if you are idling for a while, but once you move off, this will quickly disappear - If you are running a good FMIC. Perhaps it would be worth putting the car on dyno during a hot day? Also if you dont already have one, a cold air partion works wonders IMHO. Failing that, you can get ceramic coating done in Adeliade, why not send you pipework down there? I am pretty sure ceramic coating in Adelaide is charged by the job for things like dump pipes and manifolds so you could do both at once, HPC on the other had I am pretty sure charge by the inch? Can anyone verify this??? Steve

driftr33 - the only place of in austalia that I have heard of that tunes FCON is in Sydney - they are a great ecu if you can tune them, HKS just wont release the software.

I'm with GTS-t VSPEC, have you checked your timing lately?

If its free, it cant be bad...

-i have heard that the 2540's on a GTR dont run aswell as 2530 for overall response etc! wondering if it will be the same as for the gts-t!! may have something to do with GTRs using 2 turbos, not 1. -Hasent whatshisname got around 250rwkw with only 13psi?? whats he using I believe he is using a GCG highflow, not 100% though -Well Andrew did 280kW with stock internals... you must consider boost pressure as well. the more pressure the more heat = detonation. With a bigger turbo will flow more air at less pressure therefore less prone to detonation and safer for your engine with the same output. I tend to agree with turbomad, if you are after 250rwkw, perhaps look at the GT28, or GCG do a good highflow - just ask whatsisname.

Will give you $50 for the fuel rail, if its in good condition.

You will find that quality work does tend to cost a bit more - but more than compensated for by the peace of mind. It is easy to take the back seat out. Two bolts front bottom where the seat meets the floor. take these out and the bottom will come out pretty easy. There are another two bolts at the bottom of the backrest, behind the seat part that is removed first, remove them. The back rest is taken off by sliding it up a bit (you may need to use a bit of force, eg strike the bottom of the backrest with the heel of your palm). Once it has move up about 1.5 inches on both sides it should come free and can then be removed. You also need to remove the rear deck. I havent done this, but I think it slides into place. Before you can slide it out though, you have to remove the child restrain anchors, an it 'should' be ok. Be really careful as these arent very strong and crack pretty easy. If it does crack, it will still go back in, just may creak a bit. Dont be too easily put off, it is a pretty easy job, just need a spanner or socket - 10mm if my memory serves correctly. Steve

Hi Sydneykid, I am planning on using an RB25DE head and getting a manifold made. Is the sump off the RB25 better than the RB30? Anything else that needs looking at? Perhaps if I just buy a tired RB25DE, would solve alot of probs in one go. Perhaps I could put the 3L engine # on the RB25DET when I sell it? Thanks for your help. Steve

$300 for labour - ouch, seems a bit exy. Have heard good things of Koni shocks, the price seems reasonable.

GTS-t VSPEC, I am pretty sure that they dont come up too often at that price. I asked what was available and first off all he had was a few (about 4 or 5) different TD06s. Then this one came up so I grabbed it. Might be worth dropping him a line, let him know what you are after and asking him to keep an eye out. I'm not even 100% that this will be big enough now - seriously thinking an RB30 conversion will be the go - it might be just a little on the small side? Just seems a shame to get it so cheap and then not even give it a spin.