Steve

spoolup, did you manage to get a price on shipping? Cheers Steve

Dude, thats not cheap - have you had a look in the for sales, or at uniques for second hand? I got a second hand set of Ohlins coilovers complete for $1300 and they are bloody awesome - plus they can be repaired locally.

Thanks everybody who has replied, has brought up some great ideas. I think things are in the favour of the 3l. The idea of having a motor built while the car is still on the road, then the bonus of being able to sell the old RB25, helps further tip the scales. Just hope there isnt too many insurance and registration hassels. Anybody done this with a streeter? Or know anybody who has done it? Cheers Steve

Yeah I am pretty wrapped - I was going to get one of Grant's, but he got back logged with the e-mails and this one came up before he replied - about $100 more expensive - couldn't resist as the new price on the GCG website is $5880. Will let you guys know what its like when its in, but it will be a couple of months yet still got plenum, manifold, injectors, headwork, etc to go first. Steve

Will seperate, KCA347 - $85, KCA 348 - $125

Hi, just thought I'd let people know that I found a great place to get parts. http://www.fvej.com/perform.htm I bought a brand new HKS 3037S56T for $2700 delivered Also got a second hand HKS 40mm ext wastegate, nearly new for $290 delivered. the guy who takes care of the parts side of things is an aussie (Grahame), and is really helpful - any parts you want just e-mail them. Not all there stuff is dirt cheap, but they get some real bargains as they have suppliers all over japan (my turbo came from Hokkaido - the northern island). This sounds a bit like an add, but I thought that I would put the word out - if I can save someone a quid, my work is done:D Steve

Guys, if you are chasing a HKS turbo, I picked up a brand new GT3037S56T from http://www.fvej.com/perform.htm and it cost me $2700 delivered to my door. Absolutely brand new - still had all the tape/plastic intact. As you can imagine, I am pretty stoked, thought I'd put the word out as they told me they are pretty keen to get into the australian parts market.

No worries Brad, doesnt have to be overnight, just the cheapest practical way is good Steve

have seen shops advertise an rb25-rb26 upgrade for about 10k. Not as straight forward as it may at first seem. you need new computer, afms, dump pipes, fuel pump - the list goes on. If you just want the extra capacity you could just change the internals - put on an rb26 head and you have a similar package.

tlai909, you would really be putting down the ponies if you maxed out a z32, but you can always tune off the dyno beyond the afm, just like with the stock afm. jlnewton, IMHO, the SAFC is great for anyone wanting a performance increase without going the whole hog. If you are after a lazy 200+rwkw or so, it should be fine as alot of lads get good results even beyond this figure. If you change your mind later and want a power fc, there is a market for these second hand so you wont be stuck with it. Steve

Well you can definately put me down for the other one (assuming sydneykid takes one). Give me the details and I will send some dollars [email protected] Cheers Steve

Spoolup, do you have any idea how much shipping to Adelaide would be for the block?

tlai909 - if you mean MAP, the power fc comes in a version called the DeJetro, which uses MAP on skylines

Any suggestions?

Thanks whatsisname, might have to see repco and do a price comaprison with the twin 12"s and single 16". I like the idea of getting a shroud though - may as well go the whole nine yards! Might be fun trying to make one though?

Yeah, sometimes you wonder why you bother. I had a similar thing with knocking noise after the swaybars were fitted. In the end I had them adjusted by a decent suspension place and all is good.

Why does boost pressure give better results than air flow? I was of the understanding that boost pressure does not take into account things like air density due to temp, altitude or change in airflow from a slowly degrading air filter whereas airflow does. I know the differences here arent huge, but would be significant when extracting peak performance vs driveability?

I think I agree there turbomad, also if I accidentally remove the rb30 block number and when I restamp it it reflects the original motor Just wondering if they would check such things in event of a claim?

Dude, the car has a 10k turbo kit on it - think you might have trouble.

Thanks Jay, sounds like a job for tilbrooks

No track, but I have had it all in for about 5 months, and I do like driving on the edge and a bit of adhoc drift whenever the opportunity presents (why else own the car..lol)- its shows no sign of softening, but I would expect if your shocks are under rated for your springs that the track would certianily let you know it - have you had them in for testing? I think pedders will do this pretty cheap? I also found a huge benefit from going to a suspension specialist, who took my car for a drive - said 'you need to tighten up ***' did it and the car is bloody awesome. This was only recently, prior to this though, it was still pretty tight since the swaybars were fitted. Like I said before, I could be way out to left field here, but it just really sounds shock related when you say its 'very floaty'. Steve

Thanks again Clint

Thanks for all the replies. Some thought provoking stuff. My main concern I suppose is that if I spend $7k+ on gettng a rebuilded engine, then all the other costs involved - I was budgeting 10k - it would be a similar cost to do a 3l engine and rb25de head - just added expense for initial cost of block and head. I could then sell an rb25det complete and come out a couple k in front? If anything at least I would have better bottom end and midrange, which also is a pretty good motivator - who like lag. The insurance thing is definately worth investigating though - no point putting it together and not being able to get it on the road. Thanks again for the replies, anyone got anything else to add? Cheers Steve

Thanks again Clint. So would the relay normally be fitted to a thermo switch if you wanted it to actuate automatically? did you just wire up a switch for convenience? or do you use it as well as a thermostat. Has anybody hooked up a themostatically controlled relay? And if so, how did you do it? (themostat placement, type etc) Cheers for any help Steve

THIS IS A COPY OF A THREAD I POSTED ON SDU FORUM, BUT I AM AFTER AS MUCH INFO/IDEAS AS POSSIBLE PLEASE - ALL POINTS OF VIEW VERY WELCOME! Hi, I am at a bit of a cross roads at the moment. I am about to start a major rebuild of an RB25 - to allow for 600bhp approximately. What I was thinking is that to rebuild an RB25 would be a similar cost to rebuilding an RB30 and fitting an RB25DE head, with the added expense of a RB30 block and RB25DE head being more than amply offset by the sale of a compele RB25DET that could be sold on completion of the transplant. Does anybody have any ideas on the practicality of this? Are there any major hiccups likely to occur that I cant see? Would it be practical? Thanks for any opinions or advice - I want to make sure I have weighed up the pros and cons before proceeding, at the moment the only con I can see is having to change engine numbers on the rego? Cheers Steve EDIT: I would like any thougts on whether a hks3037s 56t turbo would be ok for an rb30 as well (exhuast ar is 0.61!), or will this just be too small?