Steve

Here is pic

Benm, looking at your AF ratios, there is no way that is a stock ecu, either that or nissan really stuffed up 'cos OEM runs REALLY rich, even power fc when reset runs richer than that. when I had mine dynoed, it just ran straight off the bottom of the chart. If you want 210rwkw, just up the boost to 1bar..lol Jimih, anything that is driven by the engine will sap power to some degree or another.

What sort of hp figure are you chasing? IMHO, you are better off running the lowest boost that you can. Dont confuse boost pressure with air flow. It is possible to get a turbo to pump more air at 1bar than another turbo pushing 2 bar, the lower the boost the less likely you will experience detonation. Also with higher boost pressure, you may have to decompress the engine = worse off boost response and less torque at lower revs, something I would like to avoid. It appears to me that sometimes people use boost pressure to overcome a poorly flowing engine. If you get your head ported, manifold and plenum match ported (with a decent plenum), and a decent set of cams and cam gears, you will be able to get alot better power at lower boost - with the right turbo. As an example, AED can flow an RB25 head to 403hp at atmo, and Darren is quite confident that 600hp would be easily achievable at 1 bar. Just some food for thought, decide what your hp goals are, and see what the best setup would be to achieve this with lowest possible boost - within of course, your other requirements of where you would like boost to come on. Remember aslo, that in an ideal world, we would be able to make 600bhp with boost hitting hard at 1500rpm, but this just will not happen - the bigger the hp you want, the more lag to expect within reason. Just my 0.02 Steve

Adam, might be worth having a look at this: http://board.performanceforums.com/...readid=67142909 1.5bar at < 4000rpm, 0.48AR ratio turbine with a T04B compressor Just some more possibilities

If you just tee into the hose that goes from the rocker cover to the inlet pipe before the turbo, you shoud be fine. I think the pcv Vv is at the rear of the rocker cover, with another Vv between the rocker cover and the plenum (front right hand side of the rocker cover) for ventilation whilst not on boost. If you are having trouble with my expanation, I can put up some pics Steve

How much hp, and how much lag do you want?

....why then was the VL doing 100km+ coming up over a rise into an intersection? Bloody idiot .... Nightcrawler, You answer your own quesion....lol

Clint32, I have been told I need the whiteline KCA348, and KCA347 camber kits. Could you get me a price on them please. Cheers Steve

Looks, reliability and handling - if you want all 3 you gotta get a skyline.....lol

For your output requirements, I dont think you will have a problem. With the AR ratio you have at the moment, most probably you are just starting to make good power when you are running out of revs? I would have thought that with the smaller turbine housing, you most likely would be getting more useable power lower down - and unlikely a T04E will be running out of puff even if you get it starting to make boost as low as 3000. You will still have plenty up top, perhaps get more than 270rwhp. If it gives you any idea, the HKS3037S comes in a 0.61 turbine AR which I believe is a similar size to the T04E? or maybe a bit bigger. Have you had any head work, vernier cam gears, or cams done - these will all get you on boost alot quicker too. Steve

I think Unique Auto Sports sell these for about $500 mark. Sorry, I wouldn't have a clue how well they work

HKS usa site has them for sale, not cheap though, better off getting one fabricated

Ah well, at least your box/driveline is safe. Steve

Have a look on the SDU forum, Rev210 is on the same mission and is getting consistent mid 13s with a couple more mods than you have now Steve

Sprung twin plate are a nice option, plenty of grip and not deadly on the uptake - you see a few of these come up in the for sale section reasonably cheaply ($900-$1200), and they come with a lightend flywheel (which sort of compensates for the added weight of the clutch). If you went a button clutch (single) then it would be worth getting a lightened fywheel - I think horsepower in a box do a lightened flywheel for alot less then $800 (cant remeber exactly) - they weigh 6kg though. I have a nine button clutch and upgraded pressure plate, cost $800 fitted, but I dont expect this to last once I start moving much over the 300rwhp figure, might be lucky though;) Steve

Enrico, pm sent - dont want to get a rep as a thread highjacker...lol Steve

MRK25T, sounds like a good idea getting them all done together, just one other thing you will have to do, and that is get a decent clutch, as your stock one just wont hold, if you've already got one, disregard this post Steve

Smaller cars are definately more agile than a larger car - everything else being equal. I find my 'line, with swaybars and decent coilovers is quite nimble but I am sure a smaller car would kill it on really tight corners, just due to being less likely to oversteer - purely hypothetical though. Steve

MRK25T, you really should think about your management before you start worrying about your fuel. With an aftermarket ecu fitted, and a fuel pressure reg with stock injectors you should be able to push 250rwkw - as I know of someone who is currently at 257rwkw with the stock injectors. The stock ecu thinks you have stock injectors, so if you upgrade your injectors with out the ecu (or an SAFC) you will be running very rich = less power and lots of black smoke. If you want to go top feed injectors, you will have to replace or modify the stock plenum and then get a new fuel rail. Thing to remeber is that side feed high impedance injectors are bloody expensive - top feed high impedance are reasonably cheap, you can pick up top feed injectors quite readily for approx $75, side feed dont expect much change from $250+.

Merli, your not the first guy I have heard making similar comments about triple plate v's twin. Hoping I never have to go down that path. GTS-t VSPEC, I think that one of the gtrs SST have built with approx 540hp (at the wheels?) uses a hks twin plate, but that is a circuit car - spose it depends on how hard you drop the thing off the mark, have you tried to 'drive' off the line like they do with huge hp gtrs? I'm working on that myself, and if you get it right you can get off the line very quickly - even a bit easier to control wheel spin. Might save you a box rebuild too, once the hp starts rising further? I am currently running a 9 button ceramic ferride with 2500lb pressure plate and at 203rwkw havent had the slightest sign of slippage (probably a bit early) - hope it holds on a little longer......

Yeah and 500rwhp hard launches and slicks will destroy a twinplate too....

GiJOr33, another thought, check out the SDU forum, and do a search for this topic, as sydneykid has gone into alot of detail about this very subject - maybe answer some of your questions.

You will definately need a decent clutch, the driveline should be fine as long as you are not into hard launches, which I assume you are not into if you are chasing bottom end and a nice wide torque curve. The only reason I say the rb25de head instead of the rb25det is that the det has vvt on the inlet, and if you want torque, your best off getting cam gears, therefore de head rather than det. Something else to think about - if you get head and block, you can get the work done - which will take weeks- while your car is on the road. To fit the 3040, you will need a custom manifold and wastegate and a new dump pipe - so the stock one wont be of much use to you. Ultimately, being stuck with a whole heap of parts isnt much use to you - IMHO it would be alot easier to sell the old motor as compete as possible, you could even take a prospective buyer for a test drive and let a mechanic check it out, then when the other engine is ready, swap them over. I am absolutely not saying that you need to use the rb25de head instead of the rb25det, just some food for thought steve

Agreed on the pistons, especially as they come with rings and that is another $200 saving on JEs (I have been doing some more investigating). RB30 block will give you great torque and off boost response. The best way I have heard of doing this is to buy an rb30 block, (about 400), and a rb25de head, fully prep the block - about $5000 (this estimate came from sydneykid, who does rb30s for his track cars). Headwork is another story, I got a quote from Adelaide Engine Development, and he can port a RB25 head to flow 400hp at atmospheric (no boost) and is quite confident that the head will flow enough for 600bhp at 1 bar - total cost of $700! - I'm definately getting this done. Then all you have to do is get the engine assembled, and put in the car - take out the rb25det and sell it to a commodore owner and you would have recouped some of the cost. (complete with stock turbo, manifold and dump) shouldnt be too hard to unload. All looks good in theory. Myself I am just going to stick with rb25 as if it will easily make 550+ bhp with the mods I am doing. If you are after an rb30 - I think mr mayhem was selling an rb30 and rb26 head for about 2100 or there abouts - could be worth a look in, but otherwise rb30 blocks are pretty cheap. I am pretty sure the difference in capacity from the rb25 - rb26 comes from the placement of the gudgeon pin in the piston - not the rod length - but not 100%

I'll start to make some descrete inquiries this end, dont want to get a flat out no, 'cos then people get their noses out of joint when you go over their head - I'll let you know how things are going by pm Steve