Steve

That sounds like a real bargain, I think JMS sell these for $395. On the suspension thing, I'm gonna sound pretty bone hear, but what exactly is caster, camber, toe and any other relevant wheel alignment thing. I really no 2/5s or stuff all when it comes to suspension, which is a bit poor as it can make such a difference to a cars performance. Cheers Steve

Clint32, mighty kind offer, how much for the caster rods? I will probably get in touch again once I know exactly which bits I do need, but caster rods is something I have been wanting to do for a while Cheers Steve

Whatsisname, might be worth organising a car club on the base, there are a few import owners and highpo cars getting around up there. so if they say no the first time around, it could be organised from an defence approved club and could then invite others to come and play too. If you want to, or need to go down this path, I will certainly help in anyway i can - seems such a shame to waste a perfectly good airstrip. Steve

Freegbaggin, Whatsisname and Pero's33, Thanks for all the replies, its good to hear different opinions and be able to have a choice - that way I can sus them out and make up my own mind, no one else to blame that way...hehehe Its all good and it all helps - the more opinions the better cheers heaps Steve

do it, would love to see the results Steve

Paul, if you are interested there is a guy selling an HKS3040 on the SDU forum, wants 3600 for it and its brand new. Seems like a pretty good price for a brand new one. Might be worth a look Steve

Hey Russ, the problem of the air being compressed at low rpm is pretty easy to overcome by using a bypass valve, the air is allowed to pass back to the front of the blower when cruising and when at idle - As for engine management, that shouldn't be too much of a problem, as the MAF sensor will fuel for whatever air is drawn into the system, so if you have boost at low rpm, the computer will know this and compensate appropriately. there would be no need to use two AFMs, as this would confuse the computer - adding two voltage signals together will double the voltage, if you wired them in series this would also cause problems with the correct voltage being seen by the computer. If you did want to use two intakes you would probably have to run the car from MAP but then you will have troubles arranging a shut off for the blower outlet when the turbos come on boost.

You shouldn't have any problems with the stock fuel system with that sort of power goal. I am at 203rwkw with completely stock fuel system - a SAFC will certainly help you get there. Steve

Welcome to the world of boost cut - above 12psi and your computer says I've had enough. You can buy a defender to stop this happening, but if you are thinking about upgrading the ecu or fitting a SAFC(I think), you wont have to worry any more. As to what to do if you have to replace your fuel pump (which I dont believe you do yet) that will depend on what your future hp goals are Steve

Congrats on achieving a fantastic goal - nice to hear you didnt have to retire, gotta be happy with that, just keep pumping out those 9s, and in a streeter - very bloody impressive So whats next? Any goals or just enjoying things for a while? I'm pretty sure the guys over in the west would wet themselves if you decided to put in a guest appearence. Wish I could have been there (did anyone get some vid?)

The 3040 probably would be ok, but I think you find the one that Merli is running is a HKS, so you may not get quite the same results that he is. Have you sussed out the GT35r that Per4manz do - sounds pretty sweet and is the one I would be getting if I didnt manage to pick up the 3037S so cheap.

Oops, thought you were comparing HKS to HKS Cheers Steve

Hmm, tis a sad thing. Hope the guys recover alright no one gets in tooo much shit. Though I think there will be a certian R32 driver out there who is a bit pissed - I know I would be.

Paul, What is the cost difference of the two? I thought they were about evenly priced? Cheers Steve

You coulld try dropping C-red a line, they're the aust dealers for buddy club -might be able to help

Thanks Andrew, sounds like a pretty sweet turbo - not too much lag, and goes strong when you want it too. Hopefully the 3037S wont be too far behind. Cheers Steve

Andrew, What model turbo are you running? Where does it come on boost?, and have you done any head work yet? And also, what sort of torque curve are you getting Spose at the end of the day - when I say I wont want to take the revs that high - once bitten it can be hard to hold back when it comes to the power bug. Originally I think I was only chasing 200rwkw - but the more I get the more I want. Ultimately spose its better to go a bit of overkill when doing the build - save having to go through the process again. Pretty sure this time, with a rwkw figure of 280-300, that I wont get too much chance to use more except if I only want to go in a straight line and dont mind major traction issues - its all good though. Cheers Steve

Thanks PERO'S33 - I shall give them a bell - hopefully get the alignment sorted before I stuff the tyres too much Cheers Steve

Do you have any photos?

when did you last do the plugs, I had a vast improvement just by upgrading my plugs - car stopped missing, idled better and vastly decreased detonation. Its the sort of thing that after I did it, whished I had done it ages ago - it might help.

G'day blx, Why are you worried about destroying the ceramic wheel? How much boost are you running? What sort of hp figure are you chasing. If you want to run higher boost, say above 12-14lbs, then it may be a good idea. If you are happy with 10lbs with a stock coola, or 12-14 with a front mount, your turbo is probably quite safe (I say probably because there are never any guarantees.). If you do want to do a rebuild, just remeber you get what you pay for - I have heard of a few horror stories - so do a bit of research, be ready to pay $2k+ for a decent job, roughly, you may get it done cheaper, but it depends on what exactly you are chasing. If you want to have a look at some rebuild options, gcg have a website with a couple of rebuilt R33 turbo packages, which members on this site have spoken highly of. The main thing to consider here is what sort of performance you are after from the car, and if you want more than the stock turbo will provide, get it upgraded then. for example I have just over 200rwkw on the stock turbo, which is about the limit, but if its enough for you upgrading the turbo would be a waste of money IMHO Steve

Hey Big Datto, you dont have to sell me on whiteline - I am already using some of their gear, ie swaybars, pineapple rings and castor bushes - just need to find a good suspension shop as I have found that there is a difference between a good and bad suspension store. Cheers Steve

Hi, Was wondering if anyone could recommend a suspension shop. I am looking at getting some more poly bushes and I would like to get a decent 4 wheel alignment. Does Whiteline have an approved dealer in SA? Any body have had good experiences? If you have had bad ones, and would like to drop me a PM I would be glad to receive them also. Thanks heaps Steve

GTS-t VSPEC Thanks again, that would be great - checking out the rods, looks like I moved to adelaide just a bit too soon. do you have any idea if the RB26 rods will bolt up to the RB25 crank? this would save a bit of stuffing around, but on the other side, it would be easier to get all the prep work out of the way before pulling the motor out - reduced down time = less withdrawls. A big thanks to you too Cheers Steve

Dump pipe runs from the turbo to the front pipe, which connects to the cat, then back through a muffler and back to the rear muffler. The whole system is pretty restictive. By going a 3" system, you will unleash a very noticable gain in hp. Any restriction on the exhaust side will cost you hp, but if you want a quiet system, it may be a 'bit' difficult without compromising a few hp. I have a N1 style system, which doesnt have a muffler, only a resonator on the back, so its a bit loud - I would not recommend an N1 style system if you want quiet, but there are systems out there that are quieter and flow well. It may even be worthwhile looking at going to a 4" system, to offset the restriction required by mufflers to bring the noise down - jsut make sure the internal workings of the muffler are also 4" otherwise it would be somewhat a waste of time Sorry I couldn't be of more help Steve