Steve

Thanks Andrew, dont think I need the RB26 bottom end, just thought it might be worth a look in. Spose the thing to do is hold off as long as possible and if some decent RB26 bit become available in time go down that path. Not a biggy either way if the stock rods will hold up ok when linished and shot peened. Your idea about the oversized pistons is a good one - doesnt cost too much for a rebore, so could just size the bore up for whatever clearence you want. - all sound pretty good. Dont see the need to go to 9000 redline - just increase engine wear and shorten its life... with the turbo I'm fitting and a bit of headwork it should give me a decently wide powerband - enough to keep me amused for a while anyway. And I want to get the vallve springs upgraded when I do the cams - which will be after the headwork when I know what it is flowing like. Thanks again for all your help Steve

Thanks heaps for that. Just one more question, if you dont mind, do you know what the bore/piston clearance is on these? Have been told of a few horror stories of days gone by where clearances required for forged pistons result in excessive blow by and engines not lasting more than 6 months without the need for a rebuild. I believe the stock gtr pistons are good for upto 550bhp and have a clearance of only 1 thou or there abouts, and still cost considerably less than forged aftermaket items. Merli, if I remember right, you have been chasing gtr rods and crank for some time - is a decent example or these expensive or difficult to source? Anythings to be aware of when buying them second hand? Paul, you said you had RB26 rods, any tips from your end regarding sourcing them? Also, will they bolt up to an RB25 crank? Then I could just get the crank and get some RB26 rods(linished, shot peened), stock gtr pistons. Balance and blue print the lot, and it should be a reasonably tough bottom end with a lowered compression to boot.? Hope you dont mind me asking, and thanks for your time and replies - most helpful Cheers Steve

Merli, Can you recommend or even suggest a Wiseco supplier in austalia - I have done a bit of a web search, and I'm not having much luck tracking them down in aus.? Cheers Steve

I doubt you will get a soft ride with a 30 profile tyre - just wont happen. For grip, I have heard really good things about the RE540 Bridgestones. I have goodyear revspecs which arent too bad but will light up without too much hassle if I try. The RE540s are alot cheaper than the revspecs though and they will be my next tyre.

Hey Mega and Warpspeed, thanks heaps for your replies its all good stuff. I realise that mounting the blower is not going to be easy, and I dont want to have to redo it once I have done it. I dont think that matching up the outlet of the eaton blower will be too difficult, isn't the 4.0L jag a straight 6? either way it shouldnt be rocket science to fabricate a collector for the outlet out of aluminium? What do you think? Bottom line though is cost - I can get a new Eaton M90 from holden for about $1600 - buy one new from a supercharger dealer and it is around $1200 dearer, so it seems to me that perhaps the buying power of holden has kept the price down? 'Spose they can really buy in bulk. It says alot that the eaton M90 is recommended for 3-5L as the SC14 (same size) is on a 2L and if anything wont pump the air required for an RB25 efficiently.... Warpspeed, could you explain why a 2.6L engine only inhales 1300cc per revolution? Also, how did you come up with the figure of 1950cc for a 1400cc blower at 0.5bar? Just curious - and it could help with calculations in the future. Is it in Corky Bells book? Cheers Steve

I found a reset used to help resonsiveness esp if I had been getting stuck in traffic alot and not able to rev the car hard for a while. Only seemed to have an effect on revs above 6000 - if the car seemed to drop in power above 6000, doing a reset had the effect of allowing the car to pull hard to 7000. I dont think a reset is going to help you economy a heap, as the AF ratios are pretty much set at the factory. As far as I know it just effects the timing a little Give it a go, it wont hurt anything, as the ecu is reset wheneverthe car is attached to a diagnostics computer anyway. Just my 0.02c Steve

Thanks for the pm GTS-t, replly sent, thanks Merli, that is what I was thinking, about compression ratio, but its nice to know that it is not unreasonable to achieve the results I want without changing it..Wisecos sound pretty good, quite a cost saving there. Things starting to take direction Cheers guys Steve

What model is the fuel bosch fuel pump?

I was under the impression that blue smoke meant oil, as would the brown speckles, but that was in the days before cats. How is the oil level? Have you checked the turbo for signs of any oil leak problems there? With the AFM it is a pretty easy job to to pull it off and hit it with some carby cleaner - would be worth doing whether or not it is the problem as it is such an easy job.

MegaGTS4, some nice photos there. do you happen to know what type of blower the top photo is? It looks a bit smaller than the one I was looking at - so might be yet another alternative. Cheers Steve

Hmmm, well I have to wait a while anyway as I just got an HKS 3037 turbo realy cheap - for an hks turbo. Might just keep that inmind, spose it would be really disappointing to go to all the trouble only to discover I should have listened to someone who knew what they were talking about. The eaton would be alot more reliable and give me some room to turn up the boost a bit as well. Also the SC14 when fitted to the toyota engine, when the engine is warmend up, raises the temp from 50F to 270. does this seem excessive? What sort of displacement is the SC14 in cubes by the way? I 'thought' it was close to the eaton 90? Too many things to remeber - brain hurting. so many bloody questions

Thanks heaps for that, Steve

Thanks for all the replies. Certainly given me some ideas and some direction. Once again Warspeed, many thanks for the technical advice - now to find an old block. I have decided to go the toyota SC14, as at $350 they are alot cheaper than an eaton which I cant find second hand - so even if they wear out a bit quicker than an eaton might, it wont be an expensive exercise to replace it, and its a bit smaller than an eaton too. Cheers Steve

Hey GTS-t VSPEC, does indeed sound similar to what I am doing. I am thinking a some headwork wouldn't go astray either - help get the turbo on boost a bit quicker. And maybe a 254 inlet or even an RB25DE inlet which is 248 I have been told. Cant rush these things eh. Do you have much idea how much dropping the compression ratio is going to effect spool up and off boost response? Where would you recommend to pick up some wiseco pistons from - would I be correct that you have already sussed out a reasonable price for them?? Cheers Steve

Hi and thanks for your replies. Sounds like the stock rods are the go - will save a few dollars over going carillo or similar, its always nice to save a few dollars. Merli, with would I have to think about dropping the compression ratio? Also can anyone suggest what pistons and where to buy them from? GTS-t VSPEC, so what have you got planned? I would like to hear how others tackle the build up for similar sort of power just to make sure I'm not missing anything. What rear wheel figure are you chasing? Thanks again Steve

Brendanf - have you ever heard what it sounds like when the pressure from you pipesand coola is reversed and hits the compressor wheel? pft, pft pft, pft - It doesnt sound pretty. The plumback could be an option, but I think any BOV if fitted and adjusted properly is a worthwhile thing to have as they stop the back pressure slowing down the urbo on gear change - once slowed they have to speed back up again = lag. Sure the lag wont be as bad if you are going hard, ie less time between shut/open throttle valve and because you have the foot to the floor, but that air must go somewhere and that is straight back through the turbo the wrong way. I probably need to duck for cover here, as I know that there are a few lads out there that seem to think that a BOV is a complete waste of time and money, but, as requested, This is just my 0.02 Steve

Hey Mega, I've acutally e-mailed warpspeed about this exact thing and after a bit of research have decided I would like to give it a go. Just having major dramas working out where to put the bloody thing. At this rate it looks like I will have to end up with a bloody great hump in the bonnet - something that might just grab a bit too much attention from the boys in blue me thinks Cheers for your reply. Steve

HI, Was wondering what peoples thoughts were on which way to go with rods. I am aiming around 270 - 300rwkw in an RB25. Do I, 1. Get the stock rods linished, shotpeened and crack tested (UAS have exhange ones for $550), 2. Buy Carillo rods or similar - not too cheap, or 3. Go an RB26 bottom end - if I can find one in decent condition, which I have heard are good for abouts 550bhp? Any thoughts on cost v's reliability. I am hoping to get away with running about 1.3bar max on a HKS 3037 56T. Also anyone have any thoughts on what type of pistons I should be looking at? Once again cost vs reliability at up to about 550bhp? As this sort of power is on the edge of reliability for a stock RB25 setup, I would like to upgrade the internals without paying for a setup that is capable of withstanding huge hp, unless I have no choice. Cheers for any ideas Steve

Thanks brendanf, do you have a contact number for Mark, or an e-mail? Did you manage to find out how much they charge for a highflow of the injectors? Are they doing the job OK? I am not sure wether to go high flow or new injectors, so just checking out he options. Cheers Steve

Roy, I wasunder the impression that when you order your cams from someone like toda or hks, that they are acutally made up to the specs you desire, ie lift and duration - so you can just order what you want. Saves having to regrind Anyone else done this or know for sure???

If you want a lumpy idle, go for an ecu that will allow for a rotational idle - the first time I heard a car running this I thought it must have had huge cams - it was an rb26 and it sounded just like a GT falcon I owned many years ago. Autronic have this feature, and I think the new wolf 3d does too.

Hi again Brendanf, engine bay is looking good. If you dont mind me asking, where did you get the plenum? What sort of figures does is flow? Did it come with a throttle body, or will the stock one fit up? Does it come with a fuel rail? And if you don't mind, what did it cost? Something else you could do that you will probably find will help, is either wrap your dump or get it ceramic or HPC coated - this will help with scavenging and also help keep underbonnet temps down. Also if you go ceramic coat, you could probably get your coola to plenum pipe and turbine housing done at the same time, as they usually dont charge by the inch like HPC do, and it probably wont cost you much more to get them done at the same time. Whatsisname, did you actually do before and after dynos on the cam gear and thermo fan? Ho do you find the temp regulation of the thermo fan? Is it as good as the stock fan? Are you still running the stock radiator? Hope you dont mind all the questions Cheers Steve

Hey Munro, so how did the new tyres go?

I am running a power fc with boost controller and it works fine. For $150 it sounds pretty cheap and I am sure you could get your money back by reselling it if you didn't like it. Steve

Brendanf, it all depends on how much more you want to spend - doing internals will at least give you some peace of mind, but its not a cheap exercise. To do cams you wont need to take the head off, so it will be cheaper. If you intend on getting head work done, you wont need to pull the engine. If you want cams and headwork, do them both at once it will be cheaper. It may well be worth getting a manifold and plenum setup done before headwork so it can all be matched. If you really want to decompress the engine, it may be worth getting RB26 crank, rods and pistons which are said to be able to withstand 550bhp reliably - and it will drop your compression ratio to 8.5:1 More thoughts Steve