Steve

You could go a lightened flywheel - cost you less than $1000 Steve

Hey Brandanf, opinions flowing thick and fast now - regarding the more air means more boost - not necessarily so as you can fit more air down larger passageways (bigger turbo) with less pressure - the more the air passageways are restricted the higher the pressure with the same amount of air flowing. Here in lies the yet another opinion - I agree with the idea of doing cams and cam gears - although I dont believe it is totally necessary to replace the inlet cam and loose your vvt - my understanding is that vvt give you a better torque curve, but you may not get quite as high a top end power figure. Another area you could look at is giving the head a decent port and get the plenum/manifold matched - this will further allow better airflow and enable you to make best use of the turbo/plenum/cams because the better it flows the less boost pressure will be required to get the air in and out. The unfortunate thing and a good thing about asking questions like the one you posed is that there are alot of different opinions around and some will be contradictory - you just need to decide what is right for you Good luck Steve

If you lads are all off for a feed, make sure you bring along a doggy bag or sneek out a couple of dumplings or something - bloody getting hungry just reading about it!!!!!!...lol Steve

The reason that running a lower compression enables you to use higher boost is that the compression ratio is directly related to how much the air is heated on the compression stoke - and the more boost the higher the overall pressure. Compressing a gas (air) causes it to heat up. Heat causes detonation - as an air fuel mix, when heated enough will burn (more like an explosion) without the presence of a spark. To achieve more power at lower boost (thereby keeping detonation at bay) you need to consider how much air you need to flow and at what sort of rpm - this is where a bit of a quandry occurs - to get a turbo to spool up, you need to move air out of the exhaust - so either more revs, bigger capacity engine (displacement) or better flow characteristics are required. One turbo that I know of that might fit your needs is the GT35r hybrid that is built by Per4manz in perth to quote an e-mail I got from them, 'Yes we can offer GT35r hybrids, mostly using the smaller turbine AR to make them come on boost earlier. Can also supply different turbine/ compressor selections to match them to different engines. Most of the turbos we use come on boost @ 3-3500rpm for the serious hp applications or even sooner for street combinations. Last 2 rb25's that I have done have made 320hp @ 1 bar (std engine) and 400hp @ 1.3bar (modified) at the wheels. Can only supply propriety compressor maps and these don't have much detail (surge limits & max flow only) The gt35s flow @ around 80% efficiency @ 1 bar depending on a lot of variables Cost of one of these is $2477 inc gst' Their e-mail address [email protected] they may be worth a try. Best to do a bit of research and see what you can find - that way you wont be dissapointed later on after you have made your choice. Sorry I rambled on a bit Steve

Well, you could try a full port and polish, cams and cam gears... but why dont you want to do the normal things most people do when after a little bit more - there is a reason that people follow that path. I would personally think of 20rwkw as a reasonably significant gain in power.

Well my credit card bill is making serious progress - wont be able to get the turbo up and running until end of march when I have some more funds for the manifold and injectors/fuel pump. Tilbrooks tell me that they can fit top feeds in with the stock plenum - which is not going to be there forever just until I get the heads done. But this will save me needing to get all the money at once and if I'm lucky a second hand plenum might become available - Yeh right. Till then, all I can do is dream Would have like to stay in Perth, but sometimes you don't have too much of a choice - People here are really friendly (was quite taken aback when I got here), dare I say it, friendlier than in Perth - but the roads - Perth is heaven compared to Adelaide city - just glad I have got Ohlins suspension instead of some kidney jarring setup. All in all anywhere in austalia isn't too shabby.

Thanks for the replies and predator666 - you're welcome. The reason I was thinking about undersize is I can get a HKS standard 40mm wastegate for $290, and its in really nice condition Think I'll give it a try and see what happens - just have to do it carefully so I dont blow anything up..hehehe. If it is no good I'll just sell him and get a bigger one. Thanks again Steve

Yeah, dotcom - exotic dancers, should get some pics up for all to enjoy - mmm exotic dancers:eek: :drooling: :uh-huh:

Nice mix, should be fun

Gday GTS-t VSPEC, Thanks for the reply - out of interest, do you have any idea of the problems that would be associated with fitting an undersized wastegate? G0DF4Th3R, The factory wastegate (as all wastegates) is used for setting boost - thats its job. About the only exception I have heard to this (though there may be others) is a mob in Melbourne I think that use a BOV to regulate boost as they believe it is more accurate. The wastegate works by opening when the desired boost has been reached, thereby preventing too much boost. There are a number of ways you can control this: A) fitting a bleed valve - this deceives the wastegate actuator by into thinking that it hasn't developed enough boost to open the gate until it it is at a higher boost than the actuator was designed for - you have to manually dial in the boost you want. B) EBC - much more accurate than the bleed valve and will automatically take into account atmospheric conditions to give you accurate boost at whatever pressure you set - these will bring on boost alot quicker than a bleed valve and also dont have as many problems with boost spikes. Whilst more expensive this is probably one of the best ways to control boost - cost notwithstanding. C) Upgraded wastegate actuator - HKS have release a range of upgraded wastegate acturators that utilise a higher minimum boost threshold before they open - they will hold the wastegate shut longer - eg minimum boost required, in one example, is I believe 9psi. Probably better than a bleed valve, as it is less prone to spike, but not adjustable, also less likely to creep. This is a pretty basic reply - if I have got anything wrong, please someone, correct me. Steve

Hi, Just wondering if anyone would have any idea what is the minimum size wastegate I should run with a HKS 3037S 56T? Also anyone have any idea where I can pick one up for a decent price and how much I should expect to pay? Cheers Steve

Thanks again

That's it, you've got to go! I don't want to be left at the back for the coppers to pick on...lol doesn't matter if your car is slower, we'll have to line up a couple of hyudais for you, hehehe- come anyway,the more the merrier.

Hippy, all you need to do is fit a big f@ck off dragons head to your car, and we can cut a lap of the city, that way you wont miss out...lol A skyline dragon (with others for good measure) EDIT: you can even huck a few fire crackers out the window as you go past china town. Definately a good way to get on the news!

DOH. Where abouts is this other inspection place - sounds like it might be worth a shot. So your in the defence force - which one? I am one of those too, just got posted to Edinburgh, but I am a submariner (dont hold this against me...lol) - Now I'm postwhoring my own thread. hehehe Thanks for your reply Steve

Thanks Glattman, it does help. But now I have more questions! Do they give engineers certificates for modified vehicles, or would I have to get the mods inspected first? And if so by who/where? Also, how tough are they on mods? Cheers Steve

Sorry to hear the bad news, some more suggestions: Non import also means R32 GTR Is it possible to get someone, mother, father,sister, brother, cat, dog etc to get he car insured in their name? Good luck anyways Steve

Hi, Just wondering if someone could explain to me what Regency is? If I have a WA registered car - will it affect me? Cheers Steve

I think it may just be just a case of getting your car retuned - quickly. Both AFMs use the same voltage outputs as far as I know - its just that the Z32 is calibrated differently so that it has a broader range. As soon as you put a Z AFM on, where the car would have received for example a 4.9V signal, it is now probabley only receiving a signal lower than 4V(figures for example only) - therefore without retuning you will be running extremely lean. Steve

Adrian Perth, I have met a couple of lads who are running an R32 GTR which was built by SST and was putting down over 640rwhp - reliably - this after they had been using the services of one of the tuning shops in XRW's 'go see' list but had been having problems with them- they personally had only bad things to say about the shop in XRW's 'go see' list and were full of praise for SST. Although XRW has had some bad experiences, I have never heard a bad word about SST before and have seen an example of some excellent work - also there was a car they helped put together with Per4manz that has featured heavily in performance car mags - you may have seen it, its a supra with a cobra paint job. XRW - you stated: 'id sugest you actually research some more before listening to hear say' followed by (in the same post), 'As i said earlier, i tell people to go to workshops based on what people tell me they have experience' THIS IS HEARSAY - do you go to the Jimmy Swaggart shool of human behaviour? "do as I say, not as I do"? If you haven't experienced it personally - it's hearsay I do realise that you are new to this forum, and have something to contribute, but lets keep it within the guidelines please - for the sake of everyone:)

I do believe that alot of the problems associated with atmo BOVs is due to poor setup and/or maintenance - I bought a brand new turbosmart type 2 and had nothing but good experiences, no backfiring and a percievable increase in accelleration due to loss of lag on gear change.

I think it would be worth setting up the BOV properly too, as well as a comparison between different types. Alot of people have huge dramas with aftermarket ones causing stalling and backfiring, and some (like myself and GTS-t VSPEC, etc) have had nothing but good results - from a seat of the pants perspective. Maybe its time a performance mag got off its butt and did an article? Or has anyone seen an article on this before?

As long as you can FIND your way home:confused:

Thanks Matt, see you then Steve

Whatsisname, could you tell me exactly where the meet up point is - being new to these parts Cheers Steve