Steve

Rev210, I have a power fc now so I am not too worried. I was just curious and trying to learn something new. Cheers Steve

Hehehehehe.... I would pay good money to see that - you could win funniest home videos with that one:D

Thanks for that Munro, some really interesting points, and some pretty bloody insane ponies for a street car - must be fun. Just one question - wouldnt the extra weight help the car to hook up and therefore have better control? Or does it come down to the driver and his level of control. Would a lighter car be more predictable with regart to wheels spin and power oversteer? I ask because sometimes I find it difficult to get traction when the right foot goes down, sometimes it seems somewhat unpredictable (spose road surface contributes a bit here) and can give me a bit of a wake up call. Do you have any tips for getting the power down? Cheers Steve

Rev210, thanks for your reply,l I noticed a quicker spool up when using an aftermarket bov, which was to replace my stock one as I believed it was stuffed. Also I noticed that i was getting a fair bit of 'flutter' coming out of the intake on lower rev changes, but it just wasn't lifting properly. How does the running rich on gear change affect mixtures when under power? Does it affect carbon build up on plugs etc? Cheers Steve

Cant understand why you would put it into the intake of the compressor, it would get compressed and heat up. Also injection before the intercooler would have very little effect, the best place would be after the coola, usually either the plenum or directly into the manifold runners. As GTS-t VSPEC says, it is usually associated with high output drag cars. To qote Corky Bell (us high performance guru) "Water injection is best used when no intercooler is preset. Do not allow a situation where the water injector is used as an excuse for improper air/fuel ratios. All things considered you are better off never to have heard of water injection." He further describes water injection as 'an inherently unreliable device whos time has long since passed.' If you are after a fix for summer driving you could try using an octane booster and getting a retune, or try using heat wrap and/or ceramic coating on manifold and coola pipes to keep underbonnet temps down, as well as ensuring a good airflow to your coola. Just my 0.02 Steve EDIT: another thing you could try, although I am not sure about the legality in australia, is using an evaporative gas like nitrogen, sprayed at the coola. Good for short periods when you are in the mood for getting serious.

This is the problem when people start listening to greenies, things can turn to shit

HSVKLR. a HYBRID 600x300x76 bar and plate coola is rated at a 2psi drop at 650hp which isnt too bad for most streeters. The cost about $800 (coola only)which is pretty cheap, I have one and it does a great job, as soon as I got it fitted I had to replace the clutch as the stock one just couldn't hang on any more. Just another option

So what is acutally wrong with an aftermarket BOV, I noticed less lag on changes with mine fitted - Signed: Rice Boy

If you are using a stock coola, perhaps 10psi would be safer. The stock coola has (I believe) a 7psi drop between 6 and 7000rpm. Have you done the exhaust yet? From the sounds of things you havent, because with an exhaust your boost will rise to about 9psi. Just remeber that the exhaust will change your boost, so if you fit one with a bleed, dont remeber to readjust it Steve

Thing to remeber is that you could pick up a set of 550cc top feed high impedence injectors, to go with the new plenum for $400-$500. The fuel rail might cost up to (tops) $200. Side feed injectors generally are alot more expensive, expect to pay another $500+ for a set. Sub Zero manufacture a plenum used on their 9sec GTST, it flows well and costs about $1400 and comes with a fuel rail and (I think) a throttle body. Add the cost of buying some injectors, then subtract the cost of selling your old injectors and plenum (if anyone wants to buy the plenum), and the cost of upgrading comes down to a few hundred dollars difference - in theory. Some food for though Steve

Meggala, cheers for that, did a search and still didn't answer my main quesiton. I think my big hurdle at this point is actually finding somewhere to stick the bloody thing on. this car is a daily driver, so no way I want to loose my aircon, plus I will need to leave room for the turbo GTS-t VSPEC, will do - if I can figure out where to fit it!

Well, you would still need to vent the crank case when running under boost, and to vent the vapours to atmo is illegal, at least the catch can will go along way to removing the excess oil in the vapour.

HI, Was toying with the idea of putting a blower on my skyline, just to see how the bottom/mid range torque would compare to a turbo. Has anyone done this, and if so, where can you fit a blower? I am having trouble finding a suitable spot, without loosing the aircon, which I dont want to do. Cheers Steve

Pinging sux. Personally I would be getting the car on a dyno so they can sus it out. Pinging is caused by too much heat in the combustion chamber, which is increased by many things, compression, boost, air temp, fuel octane rating (octane rating refers to the resistance to detonation), A/F ratios, ign timing, etc. The safest thing to do would be to turn the boost down until you can get it on a dyno. The other thing to do would be to not go putting your foot down if you have been stuck in heavy traffic, as your coola gets saturated with heat and will not cool efficiently until you get moving again - so if you have to put your foot down wait until the intake temp comes down a bit first. Finally it is possible you may not be able to run that sort of boost with your current set up, ie insufficient intercooling, too high a compression ratio or ambient temp just too high. If you find yourself a decent tuner, alot of your questions may be answered, until then without knowing your exact setup, it is a bit of guesswork. Steve

That sounds like a good theory to me, when under boost 'tis probably unlikely that the plenum will be providing any sort of crank case ventilation.

Hi, Chasing an external wastegate and an Eaton M90 (or M62) blower (commodore). Must be in good condition Cheers Steve

How much do you want for the speedo?

Sorry dude, didn't mean to imply you were bitching....looking back I suppose thats what is sounds like I did:rolleyes: Better read before I post!

JiMiH, Please dont worry about price too much. I think the most important thing is to go to someone who can get results, I found out the hard way (even though this particular tuner had a good rep), that you get what you pay for. The joy at a low price will soon go away when your car performs like shit, plus there is the added cost that may be associated with a poor tune etc. I am only saying this after having forked out for a tune - I didn't ask for a cheap price but he quoted me one. I think things were taking a bit longer than he anticipated and ended up cutting the dyno short with the result of a car that didnt idle too well, ran rich low in the range and lean up top so I had poor fuel economy and detonation up high - wasnt nice. Now that I have had a decent tune the car runs like a million bucks, and it doesnt bother me a bit having to pay an additional $350 to get the result. Listen to guys that have had good results and then go and get the work done. Pay whatever they ask and dont bitch about price 'cause experience and a quality job are bloody priceless. Just my 0.02 Steve

Joel or legend, Do either of you have a phone no or email for famous? Cheers Steve

You and me both Pawley. I hope to make it, just might have a bit of trouble keeping up! Spose you need to leave someone behind to wear all the heat from the local boys in blue... So is it likely any other low powered vehicle owners coming along? Steve

Cant stand people who have to go and destroy someone elses property. You work hard, save your dollars, buy a toy and some dick comes along and breaks it. Hope these idiots get a nice spell in jail, there will be plenty of smashing then, just wont be cars... hehehe

The oil/air seperator on my r33 plumbs back into the inlet pipe just after the AFM - which is where the factory line goes. Am I correct in assuming that the R32 is different. From reading the regs outlined in your first post, it only seem illegal if the vapours vent to atmo?

If you are worried about wire 53, read a thread called "free horsepower" on SDU forum, several guys did it with no adverse effects. As for speed on speedo, mine is out by about 5% when compared to a power fc, also the tacho is not very accurate, it also reads a bit higher on the OEM guage when compared to the same, but not sure by how much.

Yep, that's me.