Steve

He was trying for an orange scented one but gave up ..hehehe

Hmm, alot of people looking but no responses. This might help a bit further. I dont know for sure about the fuel rail, however the head casting is pretty much identical to the RB25 head, save different size bolts, and the RB26 head will bolt up to a RB25 block (or RB30 block), so I dont see how it would be possible for it not to fit???? The injectors would be in exactly the same spot. How much could you reasonably expect to save by going GTR fuel rail? Steve

Thanks Whatsisname, it was Martin - he is a bit of a gun with a power fc. I got 203rwkw. I cant find my last dyno since my move, but the biggest difference was over 4500rpm where the last dyno sort of fell over (the afm was a bit short of resolution). Seat of the pants, definately better across the range. I'll go and fix the location details now:) Steve

Just got a tune a tilbrooks and I am very happy. After paying someone else to do it first, and paying $175 per hour, I got an average result. I payed $350 to have it retuned, but she now runs better than ever before, detonation has gone even on hot days, better fuel economy, starts better, an extra 12rwkws. I have got no hesitation recommending them. I 'think' they said a full power fc tune may run as high as $550, but as mentioned, you can't fix a price with that sort of thing.

Killer T, SWEET. Is that a genuine or copy? Are you happy with the finish and fit? and lastly, where did you get it? Cheers Steve

Please allow me, http://www.fc-datalogit.co.nz/ I can also recomend Lumpy (Glen Campbell) at C-Red, ph 9356 3000. Other options that I have heard really good things about are: SST automotive - responsible for some big horsepower work Barries Dyno - also apparantly pretty good with a power fc, but gets busy and wont answer his phone so you may have to drop in and see him.

G'day Macka, Absolutely correct, I do need to get up on the dyno again. Apparantly (according to SDU forum member), when you select VG30 AFM on the power fc, it automatically adjusts the fueling to be a bit on the rich side, but not as bad as the stock ecu, to make sure nothing runs too lean. It is easily fixed with a dyno, which is being done on Friday next week. I will be getting it done at Tilbrooks in SA as I am moving there this Sunday - hopefully get some good results. Just have to go a bit easy until then and I know the full story. I think it may be a good idea to have yours checked, esp if you are pushing your car (which you say you have done just on occasion..hehehe). Apparently ???? when the duty gets too high you can run into trouble with the accelerator enrichment when you plant the foot, even if your duty cycle is less than 100%, which is why it is recommended to start thinking about an adjustable fuel pressure reg and injectors and fuel pump when you start getting over 80-85%, and why I was starting to get a bit worried I wouldnt be surprised if your car is on the limits, or maybe have occasion to go over them as you have a much higher rwhp figure than mine and your running a bigger turbo. Might even be worth while getting your AFM sorted at the same time? Would help get deeper into the 12s:) The main reason I went for a master cylinder brace is because my previous ride had alot firmer brake feel, and it just annoyed the hell out of me after a while. I dont think they are a bad idea, if you have access to a welder, it wouldnt be hard to make one up yourself - even mass produce for the lads on here and keep costs down for yourself? Would be cheaper than the $100 + postage that UAS charge.

The next thing you should be doing is upgrading your clutch, also take a close look at your injector duty, with a power fc and at 191rwkw my injectors were at 77% after it was tuned, and running higher before. Now that I have a Z32 afm (the stock afm was hitting peak voltage at 5.1v), and have selected VG30AFM on the power fc hand controller (very handy), my injectors are up to 89%, becuase the power fc defaults to a conservative fuel map once the selection of VG30AFM has been made. Sorry starting to drift here, to cut to the chase, with a stock ecu and its conservative (rich) fuel mapping, you may be leaning out your injectors and perhaps a fuel pressure reg would help - when you get the power fc that is. I have the power fc EBC and it is very accurate and stable. It has different boost levels that you can select between - very straight forward, and you can adjust these levels too, to dial in any boost you require. About the only down side is that you can't control boost in specific gears, which would be handy for launches. I picked my Power FC, handcontroller and boost controler for $1800 from an importer (second hand), also nengun has had this type of setup for about $16-1700 from memory. As for your pinging, I had a similar problem and replaced the plugs with NGK BCPR6ES, they are a heat range colder than stock and gapped to 0.8mm instead of the stock 1.1mm, and no more detonation. Total cost, less than $20. Dump and front pipe upgrade is pretty good too, quicker spool up, not too sure about power as I got mine done just before getting a FMIC, but if you do go with a new dump and front, I would highly recommend getting it heat wrapped or coated to help scavanging and keep underbonnet temps down. Just me 0.02 Steve

Yep, some truck drivers suck, and for the record if the truck couldn't stop, it shouldn't have such a large load, or should have a police escort to hold up the traffic while he does his thing. Slightly off track, you gotta watch those bloody busses too, nearly been wiped out a couple of times - just indicator on and pull out - they really shit me.

Hi, just put on a Z afm, solved the problem with the old afm, but now my injector duty has risen from 77.0% to 87.9%. Is this cause for concern? Is this because I haven't re dynoed it yet and its running rich? Any ideas? Cheers Steve

Is it black smoke? cause an aftermarket BOV will cause this if it vents to atmo.

Seriously sounds like blow by, this can be increased by increasing boost, or even using a oil thats a bit too thin when you change it. Would investigate a catch can as coating your coola isn't a good way of improving efficiency:D Good luck getting it sorted - only if to get GTS-t VSPEC off your case....hehehehe. Steve

Why say no? Well you could end up with ex girlfriend thinking that buying you a pod will give her unlimited stalking and harrassement rights against you and any future girlfriends. They say never look a gifthorse in the mouth, but I would be very afraid, very, very afraid.:eek:

I have an R33, plus my 2 year old decided he needed to make a jigsaw out of the template - Sometimes I think I'll never learn to keep things out of harms way:( It really isnt too difficult, I was putting it off 'cos I thought it would be a painful job but once I got going I really regretted not doing it earlier. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. Steve

EDIT: sorry if this is drifting off the original theme of the thread: Whatsismane, Would this mean that if you tune your car on a hot day, on a cold day as the air is alot denser it could throw out the air fuel ratio and cause detonation? Steve

In some cases yes, but in others no. I got an aussie made coola, 2PSI drop at 650hp cost $800. Also $400 for a custom built dump and front pipe, hand finished and blemish free (have you ever had a good look inside a HKS one?) Besides, I know where I would sooner spend my money - in Austalia. IMHO

There is a place on Forsyth street, O'connor. Sells 3m lengths for $11. Cant remeber the name, but if you are headin west on forsyth from Stock road, they are on the left, about 2-300 metres up from the dog leg in the road, if you look on a UBD you will know what I mean. This would only be $5.50 each - cheap enough for a uni student...LOL Steve

Agree with the pod, but for the extra cost of doing it yourself, I found that a partition was very, very worthwhile. Off boost response is noticably increased, especially when the engine is warm. The partition cost me less than $25, It was just metal backed foam. It was very easy to work as a pair of scissors and a stanley knife or razor is all you need. Get hold of a couple of manila folders to make the template. I took it really slow as I wanted a good job (dont like doing things twice), and it took a total of 2 hours. And I had enough left over material to make another partition, so if you know anyone else interested, go halves. Just my 0.02 Steve EDIT: as far as mods go, perhaps you would be better off waiting and getting your exhaust done first, as the stock one is very restrictive. You would have a far more noticable increase in hp even by just replacing your rear muffler, and you just get more the further forward you go. You must be able to get the air out before you think about getting more in:)

I think that depends on exactly what you want. I was quoted $1400-$1800 for custom tuned length, ceramic coated, external gate headers, built by a performace exhaust shop. Hand finished inside and out. I think a set from Japan is a similar price, new. Steve

I'm with DAMQIK, the more info on these pages, the better for all - no liability for damage done of course;)

Totally agree, the Japs do what they do well, there is no doubting that, but I do believe that australia can do as well or better, and they regularly do.

280-300rwhp has and is being done regularly. It is my understanding that 300rwhp is on the limit of the turbo.

I, too, went bar and plate. 600x300x75 and rated to 650hp+ with only a 2psi drop, cost only $800 new. As for a recore on HKS, you could try someone like Ice Performance, bit of a drive I spose. Do you have any performance shops in Ballarat? I agree with GTS-t VSPEC, either swap it or sell the HKS and just buy a bar and plate. HKS have a good name, and you could probably get your money back, or maybe enough to buy a new bar and plate coola. It would most probably be the cheaper option, rather than a rebuild. Unless of course the core in yours is stuffed?

Believe they can be rebuilt, xclutch, who built my clutch also do reconditioning.

And the reply would be, 'Sorry mate, you're not driving that car home, hand in your plates, and call a tow truck.' The test drive is to check the car is safe to drive on the road, eg, no flat spots - I got done for a flat spot once.