Steve

I went the xclutch 9 button ceramic ferride sprung clutch with 2500 lb pressure plate. I would have gone a twin plate if I had the time and dollars to source one. I need mine as a daily driver to from work, and was scared the clutch wasnt going to get me to work, so I stretched the budget just enough to get this done. Damn shame there wasnt a second hand twin plate handy at the time, as I can see this one protesting in the not too distant future- fingers crossed.

Good call GTS-t VSPEC, the R33 turbo isnt the most reliable piece of kit, in your situation, perhaps save the money that would be used for a manifold or port and see if you cant pick up a garrett bb turbo, or a highflow instead. With the stock turbo you still have the restriction of the turbine - so it would make better sense to go the turbo first, then manifold, then port/polish/match.

Surprised your clutch lasted out the drive. Mine went on the way to the dyno with a Power FC and FMIC and stock turbo.

Is that $14-1500 for a full turbo back? 'Cos if it is just for the cat back - thats farken expensive for a locally made zorst, unless its titanium:D

Sniffy, if you are chasing a Greddy plenum, xspeed are on the net and you can order on line. Option 2: subzero plenum is available for about $1400 with fuel rail and throttle body, it flows well - just ask TRY09:D

I am a big fan of local product where the quality is comparable. Japanese companies charge alot for name, and usually you will get an excellent product but you still pay for the name, plus there is import tarrifs to think of. If for example you wanted a N1 style exhaust - which is probably one of the best flowing types you can get (its gotta be, no mufflers and pretty much a straight tube from front to rear) - a new australian made product, made by a reputable exhaust shop will be just as good. I find it hard to believe that a shop that produces exhausts for high performance circuit cars would be so far off the mark that a Jap product would eclipse them in performance. I have even seen a HKS stainless dump that looked a million bucks from the outside, but inside the welding hadn't been cleaned up! For the same price you are getting a new exhaust.

I would definately have a look at your plugs. a new set of NGK BCPR6ES are less than $20 from marlows, and are gapped to 0.8mm already. They even reduced detonation on my car when I did the change, and aren't brain surgery to put in yourself.

This sort of thing really pisses me off. How bloody vague is that - probably no acutal rule on volume, IMO, this guy has his hand seriously attached to his d!ck. If it sounds like a mack truck is he saying mack trucks should all be defected? When was the last time he had his ears calibrated. I would be taking a copy of the notice, and going to see his supervisor (then taking my car somewhere esle to get the sticker off:) ) Where are you getting the inspection done currently, sounds like somewhere to steer clear of. Happy now, I've had my vent:D PVA Glue: the 96db, is that for the exhaust, or anywhere from the vehicle - I am pretty sure the exhaust has to be measure at a specific rpm, angle and distance from the muffler - does this mean that R33 Cam's BOV is loud enough to cause permanent ear damage to pedestrians? hehehe

I would be really interested in what regulation actually dictates how loud a BOV can be. The only regs on noise coming out of a vehicle that I know of reffers to the exhaust. Have a mate who is a copper and he hasn't heard of it either. Truck air brakes can be notriously loud... R33 Cam, is it possible to ask the guys when you go back next what the correct ruling on this, what are the maximum dbs allowed, and how/where they must be measured from (rpm, distance, angle etc). Or perhaps the EPA would be a better one to contact, because if it is noise related it would be their ruling? Stevve

Killer T, not quite sure about the SO2s - cant remeber exactly what the tread pattern looks like, the 540s look like a semi slick, I think that is basically what they are? GTRKEN - 15 - 20 000kms! I do believe I'm sold:) (EDIT: they are cheaper than revspecs too!)

I've got Goodyear revspecs on, which are 'supposed' to be one of the best ones out there, and cost 410 a pop. Have you heard how the SO3s compare to revspecs? Otherwise I was thinking of going Potenza RE540s, cheaper but are only good for 10,000km so I have been told, and look like they may be a bit scarey in the wet - do you know how these compare to SO3s, also how much SO3s cost??

Had a dump and front pipe built by Exhaust Dynamics - they do mainly performace work and it is all to a very high standard, all welding is cleaned up inside the pipe as well to ensure the best flow. The type of dump style they use is a integrated turbine and wastegate arrangement - as recommended by Per4manz (they do the custom work for Per4maz)- for stock turbos as being the 'best'. The guys are really professional and very friendly. Showed me the pipe after they had built it, prior to fitting. Total cost for a mild steel is $350+gst ($385) or stainless is about $100 more. Can only recommend them.

More like crazy dance - I still get bitten occasionally with 260 going to the ground. Bloody right foot traction control can be a fickle thing:D

Now all you have to do is figure out how to get those ponies on the ground:)

Thanks for the reply, I think Lumpy was reffering to the Z32 plug??? Sounds like your ride is getting pretty hardcore, do you have a power figure you are aiming for?

This is what I got from Lumpy, "For the Z afm, the following pins are what we need. Pin 2 - Power Pin 3 - Ground Pin 5 - Signal The connector is actually a 6 pin plug. Looking from the wire side, with 2 locating tabs at the top, and 3 at the bottom, pin 6 is on the left, pin 1 at the right." Is that in line with what you used Killer-T? Also, out of interest, is putting in forgies very expensive, or did you do it yourself? Cheers Steve

GTS-T Vspec, Not quite that simple, Z32 uses 4 wires, R33 uses 3 (active, ground and signal) but I'm not sure which is which. Have spoken to Lumpy at C-Red, he said he would e-mail me directions for the AFM, and I shall post them up then for all. Steve

Lowlux, good to hear you found a decent workshop that doesnt charge an arm and a leg. I wasnt trying to bag anyone, just like to be cautious. Would be interested to hear what you think of the job, and what sort of dollars you are being set back when its all done. Meggala - how many options are out there? Its bloody huge, at least going the R33 turbo, you can resell with out loosing alot of cash as the price second hand seems pretty constant. I wish I could stop my missus driving my car, just cant relax knowing she is out on the street with my ride - the things you do. I believe you have done a bit of research as well Meggala, what is needed is a definitive guide to choosing a turbo - type vs efficient power range vs lag vs topend vs cost vs A/R ratios vs cubes etc, etc. At the moment, I am leaning toward the HKS 3037 or perhaps a plain GT version - dont want too much lag, dont want to have to make huge amounts of boost to get a decent response (all the nasty side effects), would like a decent torque curve and I'm still not 100% on what my top end power should be? Anyone have any ideas?

Rhino, I live on the corner of Acanthus. I drive a red S1, with a modified trust front bar, and veilside skirts. I don't think I have seen your ride, as I wouldn't forget seeing a GTR floating around locally!

Joe, the air duct stuff from bunnings is bloody expensive, try an airconditioning supply place (sorry forgot the name of where I went, but it only cost me $11 instead of $21). That foam stuff from clarks seems ok in my car, haven't had probs yet and you have to buy it by the lineal metre, so enough for 2 partitions. Maybe someone will go halves on both and save you even more dollars (sorry I already gave my leftovers away) Steve

Joe, My pleasure, hopefully catch up on the next cruz - and see the new headlights Steve

Sidewaymambo, What sort of dollars and where best to source these from? Cheers Steve

inark, I believe GCG do a highflow (rated to 450hp) for $2200 exchange sidewaymambo, what bolt on upgrades do you suggest and why - interested to know your thoughts if that is ok? Steve

lowlux, I have been looking at the turbo upgrade question for a while now, still dont have a clue which way to go, however one thing to give some serious thought to is that unless you are getting mates rates, you get what you pay for - be really careful of getting a cheap highflow, as I have heard some nasty stories of these going pretty wrong, quesitons I would be asking: Are both wheels being upgraded, What type of wheels are being used, how much boost can the highflow efficiently produce/handle, what is the max hp rating and at what boost, at what rpm can I expect to come on boost and when will it make full boost, do you have a compressor map (determine the efficient boost range) and, what sort of warranty does the turbo come with. I have been known to be a little paranoid, but I have learnt the hard way over the years, and would much sooner pay extra to get a good quality job done Steve EDIT: and I would be chasing a full written quote before commencing work or handing over cash

Rhino, I live near Karel ave, not far from the corner of Leach H'way, U