Steve

Ron, sydneykid has most likely forgotten more about cars than I know. I think that as long as the turbo meets your requirements go for it. The Garret ball bearing series are by all reports, a very reliable turbo. The main reason I was asking the questions is that you need to consider all things. It definately would be no good getting a turbo that has too much lag for your liking, or will need upgrading in the near future because you want more power. That is of course unless you don't care about the added expense in the future. You may even be better going a highflow stock turbo. Personally I am thinking along the lines of either the GT28 or GT30 for my future upgrade, still not too sure (haven't got the cash right now either, so no hurry) Steve edit: you may want to think about some type of management at the same time - not too sure how the GT28 flows compared to the stock turbo.

Why are you changing your turbo? What other mods do you have? Where do you expect to be getting spool up? What is the car being used for? What are your future power plans? sorry to be asking so many questions, but I think it is important to get things in perspective otherwise any opinions would probably be no better than a yes or no answer:) Steve

:lol:

Don't worry about letting the car down, as long as you're having a good time that is all that really matters. Plus there is the added bonus that with 450 neddies going onto the deck, some people may be thinking you are just out there to get the jump on the burnout demos - lol

big $$$ = huge grin factor, I'm jealous and I'm sure I'm not the only one. But good on you for doing it, your car will be a beast:)

The cooler the air the better. If it didn't work no one would do it but the advantages of a cold air intake have been prooven time and again with dyno figures to back it up.

450rwhp = over 600bhp, that's reasonably serious HP IMHO. But if it means the difference between head port or not I can understand why you want to go the port. Are you getting your block deburred whilst she is apart?

I too am a bit faint hearted, just run 10lb standard, but have been known to crank it up to 12.5 (0.85bar) when its a bit cooler. The reason being, that when in traffic, I think I am getting a bit of heat soak through the coola piping, so she tends to ping a bit on higher boost settings during the day when it warms up. Also waiting on a Z32 AFM so that I can get a better tune, then might try upping the boost a bit more. Steve

Thanks heaps for that. Steve

I believe (perhaps very wrongly) that tuned length offers more than just a really nice note to the exhaust. Having tuned lenght, means more equal flow and heat characteristic from the cylinders, reducing back pressure due to less turbulence = higher output with less stress on the motor and probably a quicker spool up. Is the price difference that much? Tuned length has been around for a long time.

GTS-t VSPEC Dude, you need launch control - can wolf 3d provide that ?

EDIT: got off on a tangent, so I'll start again, I have owned a car with mild steel headers, and it performed fine, weight less than stainless (can't be a bad thing) and had good heat transfer qualities (dont know how it would compare to stainless). Haven't used stainless, but if you are going for ceramic coating, the advantages of stainless (look good and dont rust -are there any others?) will be completely negated I would think. Steve

Have had a partition done and that definately made a difference, mainly after sitting in traffic or on hot days the throttle response was alot crisper, alot closer to when the car is first started in the morning. A duct, at the cost of only a few dollars, couldn't hurt, and is supposed to give a better top end as well - only to the tune of a few kilowatts but better than nothing. Just my 0.02c Steve

Thanks for the replies Broken, Sounds good, where is it available, and do you have any idea of cost, and is it easy to put on - sorry about all the questions GTS-t VSPEC, that would be good thanks. I had a look into it when I got the dump done, but it was only available via adelaide, and the cost was nearly as much as the dump, thanks to shipping.

Am currently getting some pretty high under bonnet temperatures, due to the custom dump pipe, as I cannot fit the factory heat shielding. Does anybody have any idea whether heat wrapping could have any adverse effect on the dump pipe as I have heard that it can change the qualities of the steel and make it brittle? Also other than heat wrapping does anybody know of an efficient way of Keeping the underbonnet temps down? Any advice would be greatly appreciated Cheers Steve

Sorry dude, I totally misinterpreted, I'll pull my head in now

Not meaning to put a dampner on things, but I'm pretty sure you will find that warranties cover cars driving on roads within the state laws - and thats all, regardless of on a private road or not. Would be worth checking though. Just a reminder, just because its not written on the warranty papers that you have, doesn't mean that it's not the case. Dealer warranties are dicided by a state body, not the dealer themselves

Rob in all reality, it would be nice to think that our cars are better than they are. Some dynos tell people what they want to hear. As Destroy said "Terminal speed is a better indicator for HP...". You have run a 1/4 mile, take your terminal speed, get your car wieghed in the same trim as at the strip (with you in it) and this is the only way you will get a truely accurate HP. To suggest that your car can get 273PS at the treads - when compared to what most people use, ie dyno dynamics is either wishful thinking, or you should be writing letters to nissan 'cos your car is a freak. You have to get min FMIC, extra boost and management to even think about getting that sort of HP down. And you would know if you were, 'cos your clutch would smoke like a mofo - if its stock, which you should also know Not meaning to have a go, just no point trying to compare apples to oranges. Steve

0.02c worth, check with the minister of fair trading or whoever it is that deals with these guys - make sure you're not wasting your time on the warranty thing. did you have the vehicle inspected by the mechanic before the drags? make sure you have supporting documents and statements where necessary. Even a statutory declaration by a mechanic to say 'oil out the BOV = nackered engine' and another from others to say 'saw oil coming out of BOV on XX date' may be enough to prove that the incident was not caused by the drags. Ultimately, a statement or extract of document from correct department/ministry may see things resolved without a fight If you can get a statement or extract, go see some fee free without win type lawyers (eg Friedman Lurhie, sing or whoever they are) and see if they will send a letter for you. Even if you had to pay for a letter it would only cost a few bucks. mmm, think I am now up to about $1.50 so better stop. Good luck

Killer T, give me a ball park 'cos I haven't really thought about it too much myself, perhaps a pm? Steve PS I do realise that the wheels aren't worth much:)

I would think so, not 100% sure though

I have a set, all with good rubber, one wheel has some small marks on it and I live in perth. How much did you want to pay for them?

yes I believe you would have to cut holes. If you wait for a FMIC first (if you're doing one) there is a really nice hole freed up.

No you dont have to take the head off, just pull the plugs. I have seen two types of compression guage, one that has to be held in place by hand and one that screws into the cylinder. the guage has a one way valve, so the reading stays there until you reset it (mind you this was a few years back, probably have flash electronic ones nowadays). As for compression, from memory there is a range - eg from 160-180psi - that is considered healthy (different for different cars), and if it goes outside you have trouble. Quite usually one cylinder goes first the back ones for some reason. I'm not sure what the compression on skylines is supposed to be, the figures I used were for example only. As I mentioned, this info is from my youth when I played with alot of holdens and fords - shock horror. If anything I have said is wrong appologies, and please correct me.

If I may, 1. Remove spark plug 2. Place compression guage in hole 3. Crank engine And take your reading It is pretty simple if you have seen it done