Steve

czy18e, your post was pretty funny so many factors that need controlling (and examining)to ensure they dont change, before something can be considered proof Did you change anything when you would up the boost? Have you tried adjusting the BOV, ie, wind it fully shut, as tight as it will go? Did the same guy tune it for the higher boost as did it at lower boost? There are alot of different things, but by the sounds, you have throttle lag (ie, it takes a while from when the throttle is opened to when you are making power) - it could be the fact that you are using a bov that is causing the problems (as I found when I started making over 300rwkw) or it could be a poor tune, if you have changed anything else (eg cams) you could be falling off boost (power band is narrower). First thing I would be looking at is blocking off, or winding shut the bov as much as possible AND checking its not lifting under boost (as cubes is pointing to) The reason I say this, is when under full boost, with no bov, and lifting off the throttle, you will get a high pitched squeal, not a flutter sound, the flutter comes later (about 1/2 to 3/4 of a second later) once the majority of the compressed air has reverted past the turbo. On quick changes you cant even here the flutter, just a very quick squeel. Faults like the one you have can be alot easier to trace when on a dyno though, but definately start by looking at adjustment of the BOV good luck, let us know how you go.

Lol

Thanks for the replies guys, will check them out

Hi all, anybody got recommendations on where in perth I can buy some decent (eg, endless, uras, project mu etc) brake pads? (not a big fan of ebc, bendix and the likes) I am after rear R33 pads if anybody has some for sale or knows where I should be looking. cheers btw, the rear calipers I have now have black pads with the name 'Mason' on them - anybody heard of these???????

I am not having a go at you Jeff, hope I didnt come across that way. Big ups for doing something about it. There is no doubt that you and C-Red have done great things for the performance community here in perth - your shop, and name are well respected in SA amongst performance circles. (James for D1 Garage told me he hoped to get on the track with you one day, Martin Donnon was also very aware of the existance of you guys for a couple of examples) I am sure it will be very popular, what advertising has been looked into? Radio community switch services being informed (worked well in SA)? Fliers being made up? Do you need pit crew for any of your guys? Have you approached the likes of Toyo to see if they are interested in raising their presence here in the west - noting they were the first major sponsor to get behind drift in the east, and they love the exposure its creating for them there. They sponsor all major events in the east. If you have any promo pamphlets you would like distributed, I get around a fair bit with work and could probably help with the distribution.

guys take a look here http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...showtopic=97642 As already mentioned, dont buy cheap nasty wheels when you can get some bargain priced excellent condtion lighweight jap rims very easily. I bought some veilside andrews racing V (three piece rims) in 17x9 and 19x10 for less than 2K with rubber - the rims alone sell in japan for over 5k new. Before that I had ANZ 17x8x9 new with rubber (imitation 3 piece) and they cost me nearly $1000 dollars more. We just dont have the market to get killer gear like the japs do - bit like the cars really Also, the C-red site is worth a look, they get some decent jap rims in too. and some more http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...c=82341&st=1140

Dont think there is any chance that wont happen, you have been to drift comps in the east havent you? They are huge, just need to get them going... as the CAMS release states: The crowds being drawn are so big, that the owners of tracks east rub their hands together each time an event is up - huge money spinner for them. They even get sizeable crowds on the practice days. Ah well, maybe give it a few more years and we might be where the east was a few years ago *note to self, must learn to be more patient*

Isnt controlling oversteer a vital part of safe driving? They told me they were worried about damage to the edges of the track when people have offs.

Tried all 3, wanners and ahg just arent interested, collie wont even reply.

Jash, If there is any way that anybody needs help - I am there. I love the sport, love being involved (as I was in SA, through D1 Garage) and dont charge a cent I do have a reasonable grounding (several years) in admin and co-ordination, and have been lucky enough to be on the team with one of australia's best, as well as one of the best from Japan. I just really want to get involved, and I do think that there are many people here in WA that are in the same boat. This sport has already attracted MAJOR sponsorship from international companies, and it certainly isnt doing the local companies (over east) any harm either. Patience is a virtue I havent discovered yet

lol, they have had regular drift comps for years now 3 hours? you still running on daylight saving?

And WA still doesnt even have regular practice sessions or competitions :cuss: :cuss: :cuss: Getting left behind, big time. why the hell cant places like AHG or Wanneroo get behind this? the writing is on the wall No offence to those that love this state, I just find it really frustrating that no one here with the power to get behind this is doing a damn thing - why do we have to be several steps behind the rest of Aust?

sorry boosted, you should know about this because?

The limit has been 90db for some time - according to DOTARS (and ADRs) which set the standard. If you own a MC or truck, or older car you can have lounder though. Decibels are an exponential variant, not linear. for every increase of 3db it equates to doubling the amplitude. eg, 9db is twice 6db, 12 db is double 9db etc. thus 92.9db is almost twice as loud as 90db. I do agree though, when there are many trucks, motor bikes and cars on the road allowed to have exhausts alot louder than 90db, its sort of double standards. Welcome to the world of rules for the sake of rules. Sorry to hear they are jerking you around. If you are having trouble finding a stock exhaust, try somewhere like D1 Garage or JMS - I am sure they will have the bits necessary to help you out.

simple test, take the pump to a place that services injectors and ask them to flow test it. I have a jap pump, and I got it tested before I put it in - just to be sure, its cheap insurance, and always a good idea IMHO (luckily my pump flowed better than it was rated at - 4.1L/min at 3 bar). Get them to run the test at 3 or 4 bar, and see what it does. If it flows ok, all good - BUT if you want to use the pump in a high hp car, it would be best to buy a genuine trusted pump. If your copy flows what it is supposed to, it may be a good upgrade for someone who has a gts or silvia and is pushing for between 200 to 250 rwkw - similar application to a GTR pump, but alot cheaper (second hand gtr pumps can sell for up to $300 second hand). See if you can sell if for what it is, a copy walbro that has been tested to perform at xxx amount. I hope no one takes offence to this post, or thinks I am being smart - just trying to offer options that may help, aka damage control. good luck guys.

Another link that may be of interest, some interesting dyno graphs http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...=89001&hl=Turbo

OK, dont really see why that is relevant, but bottom line is the higher the boost, the more heat in the engine PERIOD, no matter how much you cool the intake temps 15psi will always have less heat than 20 psi - the piston compresses the charge air = heat. To run higher boost, you need to drop the CR to reduce the amount of heat being generated in the cylinder. Lower CR means more sluggish off boost and longer to come on boost, cams means less cylinder efficiency at lower revs, which will bring boost on later too. With an RB20, they dont really do much under 3000rpm stock, drop the CR further (for higher boost) and that will move right - throw in some cams and it moves further right again. Forged pistons will retain less heat than standard, so you can run higher boost (heat being the issue). At 8.5cr with standard pistons, you are playing with fire above 1.2 bar for reliable, constant full boost thrashing. With forged pistons, you could probably run 1.3bar without dramas. If you intend to run more than this, you should seriously thing about dropping the CR further - but getting boost in before 4000rpm may be a problem on a turbo the size of the td-06-20G. My advice would be to build your engine at 8.5:1 and see what happens at 1.3bar - if you need more power, or want to tune at higher boost pressure, either be prepared to run a fuel ****tail to increase the ron, run elf fuel or decompress the engine further. Remeber, if you think only of the top end power, you may well end up with a car that is only suitable for drag, ie, very narrow peaky power band. This not only will be very dissapointing, but could be more expensive to rectify than simply changing your headgasket to decompress the engine slightly, or using a higher ron fuel when thrashing. my 0.02 - good luck, sounds like it will be a very nice package.

Most D1 cars run fully forged, fully built $25 or $30K engines. Buy a turbo that flows the power you want within the peak of its efficiency - this is, and will always be the best way to match a turbo to your car. Check here: http://www.driftaustralia.com.au/forum/top...sp?TOPIC_ID=233 for power info on trust turbos A brilliant turbo for RB20 is hks 2530, at 1.2bar they absolutely rip, Wide power band, responsive - an excellent turbo for a drift car. At that boost you dont have to touch the internals, just keep the rev limit to 8000 rpm and it will love you. You do of course have to change fuel pump and up the rail pressure for it to be safe.

Pretty sure the spoiler shop in Myaree does the same sort of deal as the site posted above, all the custom dash gear.

My sards are made by denso, I was under the impression that they made most, if not all injectors in Japan. Just like NGK make all their iridium plugs - greddy, hks, nismo etc

What did they flow? do you know what pressure they were tested at?

Most manufacturers of jap injectors rate them at 3kg at idle, so around 43psi. I was told by Jap performance mech that this is best for optimum spray pattern, and should always be used with upgraded injectors. to convert kg to psi multiply by 14.5

if you want rough figures, just use the bhp approx equals injector cc theory and you should be right. 400bhp = 400cc 550bhp = 550cc etc

Oh, and be aware that different injectors are rated at different pressures, SARD and HKS rate their injectors at 3kg (at idle) vs stock 2.55kg at idle. Also, Sard and more so HKS seem to under rate their injectors that I have seen. I was putting down 320+rwkw with sard 550cc injectors with OEM fpr, and never saw 80% duty cycle - this was running around 1.4 bar boost. Sard rate their 550cc injectors at 510cc with oem fuel pressure.

try using 0.60 BSFC, also fuel pressure you are showing is a bit low. Base pressure at atmo for nissan OEM regulators is 3.05kg, if you are running 1 bar boost to achieve 422hp, the pressure will then be 4.05kg, or (multiply 14.5 x 4.05) 58.7psi = 427cc injectors required. If you were using 1.4 bar boost, 63.8psi - 409cc injectors required. There is also a calculation on that site to work out extra fuel flow for given injectors when you change the rail pressure. btw, for a 6 cyl turbo engine, the 'approx' rule of thumb is what ever the bhp you are after, get the same size in injectors