Steve

factory set presure is 2.55kg at idle, or 3.05kg at atmosphere.

http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm#WORKSHEET how about you do the math

Well, alot of people are saying a GT30 is a GT30 - that garrett and hks are the same and that gcg or horsepower can make the same turbo as hks different debate, BUT this was talking about a small turbine AR on a GT30 turbo - and that is why I said what I said. You are splitting hairs about a 20hp difference in rating - and the smaller rated turbo should make less power than the higher rated turbo. Just pointing out that your turbo's performance is pretty damn ordinary - my comparison was with stock cams too. Dude, if that is the best you can do with that turbo, there are serious issues somewhere else in your setup, cos it just isnt performing well at all. Other guys on here have the same turbine housing and making tons more power than you - even with stock cams - give GTSt-VSPEC a pm and see what he managed. I am sick to death of people getting defensive on this forum over there average performance. You ask others not to judge without having test driven, well I dont need to test drive to tell you the performance is pretty damn ordinary. anyone notice the contradiction here? Thats good, because you wont impress anyone. Have a look at the figures you posted, 230rwkw at 13psi, AND ANOTHER 7 PSI TO MAKE 30 KW - what looks wrong here? obviously you have some serious issues - either your setup is very, very ordinary, or as Cubes says, the turbo is really having trouble. get defensive as you like, your setup is ordinary and needs some serious sorting. push that turbo out of its efficiency range if you like, I certainly dont care, but to use it as an example of a GT30 with 0.63 housing make over 250rwkw easily - you are dreaming.

Seems pretty low, I had 0.61 on a hks gt30 and it put down 256rwkw on an interim tune at 14.5lbs - that was behind a rb25

it should be stickied - probably end up bigger than the Rb30 conversions thread

Bankids, I can remove some stuff for you, infact just about anything you need removed, perhaps we can work a deal on the parts I am chasing? I have all my own tools. btw, do you have axle stands and jack?

I am still after the parts I pmed you about ages ago, can you pm some details so I can come around to pick them up - and yes, I can remove myself no probs. cheers

Its quite simple really - if your boost pressure to the wastegate comes off the compressor housing or intercooler piping and the bov doesnt lift (adjustment) on gear change (or no bov at all) you will get a pressure increase in the turbine housing from reversion - this may cause the wastegate to flutter open and shut as the pressure fluctuates in the turbine housing. Its actually not that uncommon, and can be very obvious when you have an external gate. My old 33 did it with a screamer and 3037 fitted.

Guys, D1 Garage in SA had a few not long ago, might be worth a check 08 8294 1533

They will argue, if they are legal you should have permits. why was there 7 cops there? Sounds like a sign of the time, just like east - defect stations (sometimes cleverly disguised as bretho stations) - if it is that, then it aint the cops fault, they are sent out to defect cars. Its a knee jerk reaction to the extra publicity that performance cars and hoons have been getting in the media. I hate the way media sensationalise everything with scare campaigns - we all pay the price in the end. /rant

Sounds like he did luck out. I asked because unfortuneatly often you see comments that arent qualified, and are nothing more than rumour - so thanks for the back ground. I havent had an major problems with mine, I am very happy for the dollars I paid. Seems strange that your friend isnt happy with his tiens - the only negative comments I have heard about them is people thinking they are too hard. Maybe he would be more suited to a softer setup, like an eiback/bilstein combination - R&D can be a bitch. D2s are fully rebuildable, and come with 12 month warranty, no problems so far, so yeah, very happy.

wrong thread dude, try doing a search - I answered you question, but if you want to discuss it in detail, whoring threads isnt polite.

R33 has double wishbone - so you need adjustable camber arms or bushes to change the camber. Good place to start for track is around 2 deg neg on the front and 1 to 1.5 on the rear

Yes I did, when I stocked out my R33 for sale. The rb20 isnt the best for early boost, not that you have to worry now.

No worries at all. They are the rods that run forward from the rear axle, attaching to the uprights. The modified ones are shorter, and give more traction. The ones James do are as shown to him by Bai - sort of an old school Jap trick that apparently works as well as aftermarket for a fraction of the price. James car definately has gobs of traction, its amazing. Aftermarket do the same thing for around $300.

I am not 100% sure sorry, perhaps the guy that make the braided lines would be able to help there.

Where does boost start coming in? Did they flow the turbine housing? On my stock 33, boost was comining in around 2500rpm with a vg30 - seems like yours is a bit on the laggy side for that sort of power?

Best way I have found to bleed clutch, brakes etc is gravity bleed. Just top up fluid, attach hose to bleed nipple (and into bottle) then crack the bleed nipple and let it trickke out under gravity. Guaranteed to get all the air out, no pumping. Takes a little longer, but it works well. Just dont let the reservoir get low, obviously.

Apparently, because the heat cannot dissapate as quickly, the properties of the steel may change. I didnt have any problems with my dump being wrapped (mild steel), after 12 months it was still perfect condition, visually. I didnt really have a choice, as the underbonnet temps were pretty crazy

larger brakes, equivelent size to R33 gts - cusco make excellent suspension.

hicas is a pita for performance driving. Without hicas you have MUCH better stability at higher speeds, cornering, wheelspin - the back end doesnt do its own thing and is therefore much more predictable. If you prefer to just cruise around, hicas is fine.

Any coilover could fall apart under 'abuse', can you quantify a little? Who told you, and under what circumstances? Has your friend ever used new coilovers before? Has he adjusted them correctly? I have a pair on my S13, which I bought about 5000kms ago. When you buy new suspension, the springs will sag a little, and they may need re-adjusting, depending on how much pre-load you place on them. D2, from what I have been told, have in the last year started manufacturing in the UK, the quality of the materials and workmanship externally are pretty good on mine, comparable with the kei office ones I have owned, or silk roads. Its interesting that alot of coilovers out of japan are made in places like china and taiwan - to the jap specifications. If I had a bad thing to say, it would be that I would have liked extra (harder) dampening adjustment for the rears - I suppose its my own fault for not buying the drift spec ones. dollar for dollar, there isnt much that will compare, that I have seen.

I found with the 3037, for traction I had to go larger exhaust housing, made it easier to control with the right foot instead of being on/off, boost ramped so hard there is no way to control it apart from not use it - might be worht having a look in that direction too, especially with the extra cc and torque. good luck

If you are wondering if its bad thing or not (the flutter), try this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=78398

I find them ok for the money I guess, not quite enough dampening in them for my liking - also, on my rears, with them wound up fully tight, one side has heavier dampening than the other????? weird, but they are cheapies.