Steve

Yeah, I had 2 deg neg on the front of my 33, for handling. If you have adjustable front camber arms, they would be worth a few quid. Mine cost me $500 and that was cheap, full retail on them (JIC) was $650. Probably too late now, but I was going to suggest if you have aftermarket front camber arms, you could get some stock ones, change them youself and sell the aftermarket units - would make you money instead of costing you. so are you running toe out on the front now? what sort of castor?

Tay, if worse comes to worse, remove some of the nicer fruit, sell the car and the bits seperate. Things like a power fc, fmic, ebc, will sell pretty quickly. Oh, and fit a BOV if you want to sell it, or have one ready to throw on to seal a deal - alot of guys seem to think this is THE performance mod to have.

How much camber did you have on the front?

Check autotrader and the like - see what people are paying. Better still, pm chowetime, she has just bought a skyline after looking at many cars, most of which she was dissapointed with - perhaps she can give you a feel for what is on the market and how much it goes for. Remember, its pretty hard to say what a car is worth, until you have seen it yourself - there is alot of difference between a well modded, well maintained car in excellent condition (when I bought my 94, everyone who saw it and didnt know a thing about skyines thought it was a new car - it was that neat) and a car that hasnt been looked after. As Ken said, there are dogs out there tdawg, my 94 with mild mods, in near immaculate condition and 80k/km sold for more than your 97 series 2 - either you underpriced your car, some people put more value on mods than you do, or your car was in average condition even with the low kms

Its pretty annoying to have to pull off tint to pass an inspection. I dont ever want to have to do that again - yeah, I know, I am a pu55y (interesting you cant use the work ***** )

My brother in law is a cop, I asked him about permits and stickers and what he looks for. He told me that if he sees any more than 5 aftermarket mods he will ask to see permits. If no permits he will send the car off to get them, ie sticker. He also told me that this is what he did, not a written policy - they can give you a sticker for any mod that doesnt have a permit. If you are worried about getting a sticker off, it would be worth while IMO to go and see guys like C-Red, they have modded cars with permits and deal with the guys at the pits often enough to know what is ok and what isnt. Might save a bit of hassel.

dr00, you got pm

there is a place, its called the Northern Territory, abbreviated to NT - and alot of it is desert. Its not in this state, they (NT) have no speed limits on some roads. In WA - to be legal (and safe) keep it on a track, sorry to bring the bad news

hmm, seen permits given for BOV that atmo vents, quite common. Have also seen permits for pillar mounts perhaps check with the inspection station that you intend going to, that way you wont get any nasty surprises (hopefully)

I didnt actually think there was anyone thick enough to make a comment like this ah well, live and learn. runn3r, keep it on the track or strip, you wont have to worry about loosing your car, your life or killing anyone else. The plex, ahg or wanneroo. If you go to a track, its a safe environment where you dont have to worry (as much) about the many, many variables that can ruin your day/week/month/year/life.

sorry, what way were they supposed to be taken?

thats where, offset will determine how much dish, not spacers. If you look at the wheels, the rears have more dish than the fronts, therefore, given they are the same wheel, it would be logical to assume that the rears are the -10, not the fronts - regardless of how much spacer there is.

You picked .5" by eye, based only on the fact that they hung out of the guards too much? C'mon, they could have just as easily been +17, then they would have been 10" instead of 10.5. on another note, seems strange that the rears are +24 (104.6mm from wheel outer edge) and fronts -10 (120.25 from wheel outer edge). Would make more sense if it was the other way around - giving much greater dish on the rears than the fronts. (edit: as per pic above)

you are, offset is very different to width. for example James Vahoumis S14.5 has 40mm overfenders on the rear, his wheels hang out of the guards, with something like a -15 offset, but they are only 10s on the rear. having dish, and hanging out of a guard doesnt always correlate to wheel width.

dont confuse offset with wheel width

Sold, thanks for the interest.

Correct, just plug in.

I have the ebc kit that works with power fc for sale. Complete with solenoid, map sensor and wiring harness Perfect working order Chasing $250 or swap for rear adj camber arms suit S13/R32 Steve

For sale in WA (perth metro, SOR) I have a power fc boost control kit, the type that is driven by the power fc. Comes complete with solenoid, MAP sensor and wiring, complete ready to plug in. Works perfectly, wanting $250 SOLD

http://www.shockreco.com.au/reco.htm JIC make excellent coilovers

The guy who owns the car's nick is whiplash on nissansilvia.com forums. Might pay to ask him

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...light=Bosch+044 pretty sure it covers in enough detail

Hope this hasnt been asked before (I didnt read all of the thread), but have you checked the vvt has been reconnected? R34 has both inlet and exhaust doesnt it?

you farking d1ckhead

If you are tossing up between polishing the metal bits and painting blue on the engine, you can sort of do both. There is a product that is almost like a candy finish, its a coloured chrome type finish. Blue chrome engine - bling baby yeah:p Oh, and for fitting engine, if its being done at a workshop, easiest way I have seen it done on GTR is to drop the whole front cradle, with engine in place on the cradle, just lower the car into place. Minimal chance of chips/scratches on the nice new paintwork and it really is alot simpler than going in from the top. G/L cant wait to see the pics