Steve

it will only cost you more in tyres if you fry them, but at least the wear will be even, so instead of changing one side more often than the other, you will be changing them at the same time. Honestly, the difference between mech and viscous is huge. I found that I could get off the mark without spinning my wheels, where as before anything more than a very gentle launch would result in wheels squeeling as I left the lights. This of itself is pretty important with todays hoon laws but also makes it more enjoyable to drive. Also, when the wheels do spin, the back end is alot more predictable (even better if you lock the hicas). Going around corners/bends if you put your foot in, the back end doesnt launch sideways unpredictably, and coming back it doesnt whip around. It will still step out, but it is much more controllable and you can just keep your foot in, hold it sideways (if you want) and bring it back under control. So much better, once you upgrade to mechanical you just wont want to go back. That is of course unless you use the car for cruise/shopping trolley duties only. If you go back to viscous, you will kick yourself.

Yes, 2540 is capable of well over 250rwkw, Z32 will be needed, as will injectors.

Your mech/tuner is on the money. should sort things out. You may find the AFM is close to, if not out of resolution. This only becomes a problem if you want to turn boost down - the car will run rich. To sort that out you will need a Z32 afm, but if you are happy driving it the way its tuned, dont bother until you start thinking about turning the wick up. Oh, and you may be due for a clutch before too long. Welcome to the world of moddified cars

Nice buy, nice mods.

2 pak is the shit, you just spray it on, sit back and enjoy. Tough as nails, doesnt need buffing or clear coat for a nice shiny finish. Looks just like any other paint, just mix in the hardener and away you go.

Not correct, they are illegal if the car was required to meet ADRs for front end impact - which means if your car was built before July 1995, you are all good. This has not been plucked from some dark place, that shouldnt be mentioned on these forums, but via an engineer - and a car that has a permit for one from the very helpful lads at welshpool.

Some, not all, make alot of noise. Two things I have found that make a difference: 1/ how new the diff is, and 2/ the weight of oil and how new it is. Freshening up the oil can do wonders if it hasnt been changed in a while. It would be worth taking a look just to make sure whoever complied it for you changed it anyway, as it should be done. Possible if they did do it they used a 'light' diff oil, which wouldnt help either. I recently replaced my diff oil with a 140 weight, quietened it up a fair bit, but it hadnt been done in around 10,000kms. If the oil is making no difference or not enough difference, it may be time to change the clutch packs in the diff. If you go to stock diff, from a performance point, you WILL regret it. Mech diff makes a huge difference to the car when you are going hard, or even just taking off from the lights.

pretty sure they are khumo - maybe your local tyrepower? j/k

something a bit different - how to stand out in the crowd http://www.mustangevolution.com/news/kumho...HO-redsmoke.wmv

Boostzor, endless may be a bit pricey, but stack up well against others when you consider the money you save in not having to replace your rotors so often - more rotor = better brakes Abo Bob, bigger rotors can make a difference, both in thickness and diameter, as can the design. Take for example the 'roo paw' (or whatever its bloody called) design of DBA rotors - they spent alot of time and effort trying to improve the cooling efficiency of the rotor. Then you have the material that the rotor is made of which also makes a difference. If you have aftermarket/upgraded rotors, there could definately be a difference.

there are more factors to whether or not a brake pad will fade than just the pads, tyres, driving style, how tight the track is etc. Your pads are obviously ok for how you use them, but not in Boostzor's case. I have know other people that have had fade on ultimates (so they told me), even though I didnt get it. Alot of variables.

My personal favourite is Endless SS-S, low dust, great initial bite, progressive and rated to 500deg C, so not likely to fade on the street. Oh, and they wont chew the ass out of your rotors either. I have also found project Mu are pretty good, not quite the same intial bite as endless, but otherwise on a par. I have also tried bendix and greenstuff, didnt think alot of them (personally), better than stock though, but dusty and seemed to wear rotors like there is no tomorrow. your brakes will perform ALOT better with good pads than if you upgrade and use normal pads, (I went from stock SR20 brakes with project Mu pads to stock R32 brakes, and the SR20/project Mu combo pissed on the stock R32 setup) Once I fitted endless pads it was a different story though. Good brake pads are an excellent upgrade. I would recommend getting the best you can afford, what price your life? cheap insurance and alot more fun driving the car.

If you need a hand removing, let me know - they are pretty straight forward.

Will you let me know when the parts I was after are available please? cheers

I bought some standard (not slotted) dba discs for around 110 each. Slotted are great if you are going to push the car hard. Unless you already have upgraded pads and are starting to get fade, it probably wont be any advantage at all though. Good pads make a huge difference to the stopping power.

Toyo TPGs are excellent, as are the T1S. TPGs are a bit cheaper, but still give excellent grip and wear. Let me know how you go on price, as I have a good contact in SA that might be able to get them cheaper for you.

bankids, werent you going to let me know when these were available, I did offer to pay what you were asking, now you want to sell somewhere else?????

shockproof lightweight is excellent for gear boxes. My fave for engine is motul 300v 15W50, the turbolite 8000 is good too. I havent seen any over here. It is a bit thicker than mobil 1, which is an advantage with RB25 as it does tend to get a bit of blow by. It also has a very strong detergent action. 300V is around $86 for 5 litres.

thank you

Hi, Anybody know where you set fuel rail pressure? Sard 550 injectors for RB25 are designed to operate at 3kg, stock injectors at 2.55kg base fuel pressure. Where is the measurement taken, at idle or at atmosphere, or does it make no difference? cheers

Guys, I gathered HEAPS of info on current practices both here in SA and interstate - even had info from the US as they are the leaders in emissions control and regulation. Bottom line is, no body wanted to give any written depositions regarding their problems with SAPOL and Regency. So I was left holding my dick, waiting. I am now in WA, where life for a modified car owner is SOOOOOO much better - so no longer relevant from my perspective. What I would recommend is to phone up your local MP and have a good bitch to them. Better still, see them in person. It would be worth mentioning that other states such as QLD, NSW, Vic, WA have systems in place that allow enthusiasts to modify cars, and comply with NATIONAL rule regarding car modification, without it costing them an arm and a leg, ie, exhorbitantly priced engineering and emission reports. Perhaps it could be mentioned that SA is backward in its approach to what is a legit hobby that generates income for thousands of australians, that the rules need clarifying. Whatever your gripe, hit them with it, and keep hitting them. If enough pollies get enough time being taken up by people that complain about the same thing, they will take notice. Seriously, it doesnt take long to make a phone call, if you dont like the response, ask for their e-mail address and hit them again. Dont give up, just keep up the pressure. Even if you just get pulled over and hasseled, complain. Complain if you think your mate was badly done by, any excuse. If you dont like it, complain. Better still, drop them a letter, doesnt matter how its scrawled out, outlining your complaint and asking to meet with them to discuss. If they get snowed under with this thing, and it wont just go away, they will have to do something to sort it out. Without people standing up and saying enough - nothing will ever change. Its only through protest that things seem to happen, and its the benefit of living in a free society. Protest is even more effective when its not just the 'professional' protesters doing it, but the average guy/girl from all walks of life. Even get your mum/dad/brother/sister to complain. Good luck all.

do you also have dongle and jap windows? are there many different functions available via excell V's datalogit?

according to this site: http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/turbo/...ss/ac_gtss.html the 0.60 is for single SR, 0.42 is RB26 in twin form they also use differnt size and trim wheels - spose turbos aint turbos

Yes, just block them off. With a turbo that doesnt use water cooling, it is a good idea to fit an oil cooler, especially if you intend to do any extended track type thrashing. If the budget doesnt stretch, make sure you fit an oil temp guage, and ensure the oil temps are down before you switch off. Normal things that should be done with any turbo car, but if you upgrade to oil cooled turbo, it is more important that you are mindful of warm up, cool down and oil temps.

Yes, do as Rev says.... arrogance