Steve

I went 256 inlet and 264 exhaust for the following reasons: It is a commonly used combo in Japan, if it didnt work, it wouldnt be used Less duration on the inlet as VVT advances the cam (until its retarded at 4500rpm). Too much duration on the inlet could cause problems with NVCS during advance - or so I was led to believe 256 was the only cam duration HKS used whilst being compatible with NVCS, but the bottom of the range exhaust cam was 264 Turbos make boost on the inlet side, the big trick is reducing back pressure on the exhaust side My reasons anyway. The main one was the first one. I have looked to Japan in alot of ways for inspiration, they have been playing with these cars for alot longer than us. I have also found that when I have deviated from what they do, not such nice things have followed. Cams to me is somewhat black magic, too much cam and it can cause a whole heap of problems ( I found out this the hard way along time ago:)).

finally the run comes to an end. Million dollar question though, if the car is on defect in NSW, if you cross into SA (and seeing as the car is not SA reg) would the car still be on defect. Each state has its own road traffic act, do the laws apply across states? Would be worth looking into? Good luck mate.

Nah, ex wife, 3 kids and cashflow;) I am now the proud owner of an S13 180:p

Not being sarcastic, need to downgrade - if anybody knows any good silvias/180s/200sx going, let me know:)

ant32, instead of spending heaps on your car, sell it and buy mine - save you a fortune:)

7 month old thread guys.

Dean, click on the thumbnail, and you get a big picture - its like magic...LOL Nozilla, yeah, see a few R32s and R34s in Jap D1 videos. I dont think its the torque, although it doesnt hurt - probably due to being a lighter platform and the fact that silvias handle like a go kart with just coilovers. Not sure really.

Chris, OK if I bring the wheels back tonight? Dean, found a link to some photos http://www.pbase.com/mcphotographics/040802

hehe, much. some good advice there too - always good to read up:)

oh, and I found around 68.5% works best for me (injector correction) that is with bosch 044 pump and stock fuel rail pressure - which is probably slightly higher than stock with the larger pump.

B-man, what rail pressure are you running? this will make a difference. EG, sard 550cc injectors are rated at 3.0kg rail pressure, at 2.55kg (stock nissan) they are only 510cc. your formula is basically correct though. Also, make sure you adjust injector lag time. If you are running Sard 550cc, it is around +0.08ms how is the idle going? - I forgot to mention on your idle question thread, but have you tried lubricating the AAC vavle? I sprayed a fair bit of WD40 around the adjust screw and it certainly helped (wound in the adjust until the valve was working overtime to control idle, left it go for about a minute, then would the screw back out and it settle things a fair bit:))

strutto, thats a bit harsh isnt it? poor guy is trying to learn and there are a few posts here that arent really serious. It can be hard to know what is truth and what is fiction today - especially when there are so many 'experts' out there who all swear by different things. getrippedoff, the wastegate bypasses around the turbine wheel of the turbo, the turbine wheel is spun by exhaust gasses that in turn spins the compressor wheel (at the front of the turbo) and creates boost. If you disconnect the wastegate actuator, the exhaust gasses will take the path of least resistance, ie, go around the turbine wheel, thereby you will have no boost:) Oil supply and water cooling having nothing to do with the wastegate, it is quite safe and easy to do as Joel recommended - and it will achieve what you are after with minimum work.

snake, James at D1 Garage has one in his s14.5, holds around 250rwkw no problems. He can get them in.

not too sure if there are many pictures of the car going sideways, it was a bitch getting the balance of enough power vs too much vs too little. In fact the best corners were number 2 and 3. Only sort of linked the S bends once or twice all day. Still, it was my first attempt and I had a blast would be good to see more SAU members out there next time.

Had a ball, not many people on the track, so heaps of runs. Definately be at the next one, no matter what I am driving:p thanks for the loan of the wheels Chris, will get them back to you soon:)

Dean, the only problem is anybody could write anything - so it holds minimal weight unfortuneately. I will make the report public, but when I have finished:) It will get sent to several people actually;) Its such a broad sweeping problem, with so many different implications that its a bit difficult to string it all together coherantly. SR910, good luck, hope it goes well.

Welcome to the forums:) for 16K, you should be able to pick up a really neat example. If you are after stock, around 12+ for a clean auto example - you do need to hunt around though. It would be worth getting one with a bit of fruit on it though - cos most times, when people spend money on cars, they loose alot when they sell it, alot of money. I have spent around 40K on my car, plus cost of purchase, and it will be close to impossible to sell it for even 35K in one piece (just no market for highly modded cars) - gotta remove some fruit, but even then, I still wont get anywhere near my money back. Good luck, and be patient:)

Browny_r31, sorry to hear your story mate - they certainly do like dicking people around. Any chances of a copy of the report, along with a statement/outline of the complaint? I do think your local MP would be worth contacting, dont underestimate the clout these guys have. Hmm, yes it has been slow going. I havent really got alot to draw on except my own evidence - ie, standards being used by police and regency, and discrepancies between nation standards and also other state legislation. No one, as yet, has actually given me a written account of their experiences - this makes it hard, as I dont want to rely on hearsay. I have been a bit distracted of late - also, a bit apprehensive with my car which is going to be an obvious target as soon as I make waves, but now that it's going, things should progress. Also, I now have some free time on my hands, so hopefully in the not too distant future it will be on the move again. Sorry if it sounds like I havent been doing much, I suppose I have been a bit slack, but also a cross between very distracted and very scared (about my car). I will be using this thread, and the experiences/difficulties/apprehension expressed in here, but it will be as an unconfirmed source.

I changed my O2 sensor, and the car was alot smoother at cruise. Voltage was doing what it was supposed to, but what made me suspect was that the voltage came down during cold start, to 0.02-0.00V. Once I fitted the new sensor, the voltage stayed at around 0.92-1.00V during cold start - so the old one was obviously knackered. It will make a difference to economy, as the car goes into closed loop at idle and cruise - if you arent worried about that, then not much point in changing it I guess. Another thing I found with a bigger turbo, is that reversion out of the AFM was greater - probably due to a larger inducer and more air flow, but anyway, I fixed that by replacing the mesh on the AFM. If you have both meshes, another thing to try would be perhaps to tension up the BOV a little. Also, not sure where you have fuel cut recovery rpm set, but mine is 1200 and 1250 - might make a difference. good luck.

closed loop for O2, the characters are on/off - if you dont have the boost control fitted, then you would have to turn it off for the engine to work. the car should idle with the O2 feedback on or off. You should turn the O2 feedback off for tuning. the O2 sensor could need replacing. previous question, the TPS should read around 0.48 - o.5v closed. 0.4 to 0.6 indicates throttle shut. The AAC valve, I found, works best when left as open as possible, until the idle starts going above where you have it set. You should be able to get a good idle below 1100rpm, mine is fine with 256/264 cams at 900rpm, and there are people around running larger than that and still getting a good idle. the adjustments in the fuel map are correction to the base power fc fuel map, so as you guessed raising the number means more fuel. To adjust the base map you need the power excel software only available throught Apexi authorised dealers I think that just about covers the questions.

I wouldnt say quite easily - it will be tight (or should be) but it will be smooth, no grabbing and then giving, then grabbing again - that is if you could turn the mech diff by hand:)

Yes please:)[email protected] cheers

the 33 diff is different ratio, 4.11 vs 4.3x in the 32. Not sure if they would bolt in, but the 33 diff also fits S14 if that is any indication. If its mechanical, you can remove the centre and fit it anyways. The diff in the photo looks pretty stock to me, have a look on the cusco site for diagrams of how mechanical diffs work. If the diff is still in its housing, try turning both ends. A viscous diff, you will be able to turn each side of the output ends in opposite direction, a mechanical diff - not a hope in hell. Its easier if its still on the car, then you just jack up one side and try to turn the wheel. If the wheel turns (once again, with some resistance) it is not mechanical, if its almost impossible to turn, but when it does it clunks (slips a little then holds again), most likely a mechanical diff. Best way though is to pull the back cover off and have a look for the 'keyway' sort of thing as per the cusco site. Definately do this if you think you may have found a mechanical diff. hope that helps

I lived in Vic for 4 years, the roads here are alot worse.

could you also please send me your phone number to discuss - I would hate to go on a trip to qld if its not what I am looking for cheers