Steve

were the mods done in Japan or Aust? if you cant post them up, pics to [email protected] please cheers

it depends on whether or not you are in a built up area - not sure if 20kmh is loss of licence though, I though it was more like 30 or 40?

guilt toy, set the car up right, and 400rwhp is quite useable on the street - mech diff, adj camber arms (around 0.5deg neg camber or less) and some sticky tyres = no major traction issues.

How much did you want to spend on a 33? I am looking at downgrading:)

yep, thats the right amount - got done for similar speed a while back. Just be glad you didnt get defected:p

One other thing, what is the TPS voltage at idle?

yes, they are very loud - should definately hear it.

got pics?

A couple of things to look at if you havent already, Have you still got the mesh on the AFM? Check your fuel cut recovery rpm on the power fc - should be around 1200rpm - go into settings then idle - under your redline setting is the fuel cut recovery rpm for ac on and ac off. Also, have you tried winding your AAC valve open a couple of turns? Hope it helps

diagnostics: http://www.overflow.250x.com/ hope that helps, sounds like a weird problem

the 044 comes with a non return vavle, well mine did - just need a banjo fitting to go over it which you should be able to get from a speed shop. Having said that, I know a guy who has a 044 and they (workshop) removed the non return valve when it was fitted, as its easier to get a hose tail connector - he hasnt had any problems that I know of, as I specifically asked if he had problems with it being removed. sorry if thats not much help

thanks 9krpm. I have spent around 40K on the car not including purchase. I would sell it complete for around 35K, but realistically, I will have to strip some of the parts. Trent from autobarn had a 3037 on his SR20 - with a 9-10krpm redline, it would produce a pretty wide power band I should imagine. She starts making positive boost just over 2000rpm, 1 bar under 4krpm with a 0.87 housing on my rb25. with the 0.61 housing it was pushing 1 bar at around 3krpm. With a slightly richer tune and a bit more timing, it would be lower again. I was planning on doing it (more fuel, more timing), but not anymore. In Japan, they have used twin 3037s for around 700rwkw on rb27. Mine made over 320rwkw without problems. A bit of head work and bigger cams, who knows?

Thanks for the kind words guys - as Joel said, shit happens. Joel, if you want he 3037, wastegate, manifold etc, drop me a pm. Irish, good to hear the GTiR is back and going strong, you'll have to take me for a spin some time - once I have worked up enough courage:) How is 2nd holding out?

Thank god for that, not the same as mine:) and

EX wife, kids.

looks like I will be selling my 33:( might have some bits for sale in the next couple of weeks, I doubt anybody wants a highly moddified gts

jager, are you talking about the modified trust gracer bar? if so, you are not the first to have it, if not, post up some pics:)

Well my car is idling fine - I found a few culprits. Vacuum leaks - the main one was the PCV valve - blocked it off AFM - the mesh does serve a purpose. I ended up getting a strainer from the warehouse for $2.50, cut the mesh to size. This stops air reverting back up the AFM and playing havoc with the signal. Lastly, and this was the hardest to find - the ECU plug. I noticed that the idle only seemed erratic, intermittantly when the car was cold. By using the sensor check on the power fc hand controller I noticed slight fluctuations of about 0.15Vmax on the AFM - initially I thought it was the CAI, but when a friend asked to borrow my hand controller I checked the plug and it was sitting out slightly on one side by a couple of mm when I gave it a push. Bingo idle perfect ALL the time. Enrico Palazzo had a problem with this a while back, kept coming up with afm fault codes and the car wouldnt idle right - turned out to be his ecu plug too. Anyway B-man, use the sensor check, make sure everything is set where it should be ie, voltages in range. Good luck.

out of intereset, where can I find pics?

If you want to mod, an S13 would be cheaper way to go, if not from the point of having an abundance of parts, then also the fact that injectors, cams, manifolds are more expensive for a 6 cyl than a 4 cyl. If you want a car that can handle like a go cart with minimal mods, and is more nimble, go for the S13 - they are lighter and just a good set of coilovers, they handle like a go cart. SR20 has better torque, due to its rod ratio, ie having a longer stroke. This also means it wont like to rev as much as the RB engine (quite safe to take them to 8krpm with a good tune) - also the SR has a rocker type setup, which can be a weak point with larger power. Skyline has much better brakes also, replacement engines if you need them are quite cheap, around 1k. There really are pros and cons for both. I think you need to ask what you want the car for. IMHO a skyline is more a circuit car - more suited to cruising than an S13, where as an S13 is more a drift type car - more nimble and easier to throw around. Bottom line though really depends on what mods have been done. Good luck, both are great cars, and I am sure you will enjoy either:) And just for the record, I love the sound of an RB engine on full song, just as much as an SR - both sound very tough with a good exhaust, and even better with a manifold.

Matt, if you re-read my post, you will see that what you posted is WRONG as for the rest, you got pm

I wont tell you how much he charged me for less than 10 minutes work - it was alot more than $0. Matt, I know that Shaun looks after you, but I think it is a little remiss to post up 'mates rates'. I dont want to bad mouth Shaun, he does good work, but I can guarantee that very few others here on the forums would get the treatment you do. I certainly dont, and it is a bit dissapointing (or was) that when I went down there, I got charge $50 for a few minutes to add a bit of fuel and adjust a TPS - less than a 5 minute job. I read of your great deals, but then it seems worse when I go in and it cost me alot more than I would have expected for a very quick fix.

slyr33, if you want to get rid of the ones with rubber on em, I am sure I can find some (mis)use to put em to:) Once they are down to carcas, they arent really much use at all. Cheers

Thanks Chris, reply sent:) slyr33, what brand and how much meat on them? cheers

darrinspencer, there is no way in hell that they will get the injectors within 1cc - if they are liing about that, what else. but hey, its your car. Oh, and I think B-man had some high flows in his car - lost his ringlands, it may be worth asking him what he thought of them. He is running aftermarket injectors now.