Steve

What rate are the S tech springs?

Emissions testing is required when you change anything except exhaust, FMIC and pod. So, BOV, Power fc, EBC - all require an emissions test. If you get it engineered, and emissions passed - you wont have to stock your car out to get it passed. Also, if you get the ride height to 100mm clearance, which is the minimal allowed under state and federal law in NSW - you wont have to worry about that either. As for noise, well get it tested and see if they are right or not. TT, not sure about NSW, but in WA you can have them as long as they are switched to the hand brake, so they only work with the hand brake on - might be worth getting it included. All I am saying is, get it all certified and legal, then you wont have to worry about it again. Being in NSW its about 10 times easier than in SA.

MOTUL 300V 15W-50, good enough for Nismo, good enough for me:) Pureone filter

You are alot better off getting it cleared in NSW - alot cheaper to get a car engineered, and free emissions testing. At least that way it will be legal and should only cost a few hundred $$$

Just tell them its stock - if it passes all is good - or go for a drive to NSW:)

Me, Me, pick Me. I am definately in!

www.greenline.jp or if you dont want to go OS, try places like www.d1garage.com or www.japanesemotorsport.com.au You can save some money bringing in things by yourself direct from OS, but you can also get burnt by customs and it ends up costing more. I have bought a fair bit of stuff, but most ended up being sourced local as the prices were comparable or only a little more expensive locally. Never hurts to support local business when you can.

So when can we expect to see a full report of your results:)

I have hardish rear sus (8kg springs, near max damp on ohlins), and no real traction problems at all. I do have a bit over 200rwkw. Get a good rear alignment, minimal toe (0-0.5mm in), get rid of camber (arms or bushes aim for less than 0.5deg neg if possible). Pineapples, which mount against the rear cradle, and hardmount bushes can be used to change the angle of the rear cradle to optimise traction and reduce tramp. If this doesnt work, get a mechanical diff. And, as Merli points out - some half decent tyres.

Dean, 040 is the same size, greenline have tomei pumps for around $350 AUD, so count on $400 ish delivered - comes with fuel pickup and everything you need - very good value IMHO

OMFG that is unbelieveable. Good to hear the insurance company is looking after you - who are you through? mine is up for renewal.

If you need your emissions done, you can get a free IM240 test done in NSW (by RTA - check their website). Toyota and ford will also do testing. There is another company, cant remeber the name sorry, that does IM240 emissions test down there for around $600. IM 240 stands for Intermediate Maintenance 240 second test. It is a quick and dirty drive cycle test. Check with the EPA, as I am near 100% sure they accept this type of test. Get the eng report done, drive to sydney, come back and get your rego passed. OR, you can get an eng in NSW to do it - they are pretty cheap up there, I was quoted around $300 for an engine swap, $600 for a reasonably modified R33 - and the best part is there are several that are recognised by Vic Roads;) Good luck.

RA 1s are a treadwear of 40 so dont expect too many kays:) Dunlop RE55s are cheaper than proxes or azenis here in SA, $350 for 235/45/17 fitted - they stick well. They also have a very stiff sidewall which isnt a bad thing. Interestingly the 235s I have are slightly wider than my 8" rim, but the 255s (RE540s) I have on the rear are exactly the same size as my 9" rim. Next time I will be going 235 rear. I am prettys sure the RE55s are used as a control tyre in targa tas too.

So when does it arrive?

When is he coming back? I'm in, but as much notice as possible please - I live in SA:)

R33vit, that was a month ago. Its a shame he's not coming over in the next month or so:(

Check the Vic Roads website, they have a full listing of approved engineers

The reason I recommended the Tomei fuel pump is that there is a fair bit of fiddling to get a bosch fitted - by the time you recon in the extra parts cost, and the extra rooting around - its quicker and costs similar to buy a direct fit pump, made for the job. Only sharing experience - like I said, if Dean wants a 044, I have one all set up If it makes you feel better Matt, Dean, buy a garrett turbo, just pick some specs and hope for the best. I dont like to recommend a turbo that I havent seen/heard first hand what they are like. So that sort of limits me to the ones that I have.

Power FC boost control (in fact all the EBCs that I know of) work by cycling the boost pressure to the wastegate actuator - the ratio between the open and shut time of the solenoid is known as duty cycle. Question two - if you dont want to mess with it, take it to a workshop.

Dean, Dont bother with a 044, get a jap one - or, if you really want a 044, buy mine, fitted and running, then I can buy a tomei one:) HKS 2535 has made around 250rwkw at 1.2 bar on RB25, so that would be my suggestion, or similar. Manifold, I would be careful removing too much metal from inside the runners. I know a guy who fitted a manifold with 2mm wider runners on an SR20 and got a noticeable increase in lag and drop in response. I would suggest just matchporting the manifold and plenum would be a better idea. Injectors - how much do you pay for insurance every year? does it provide warranty against smashing ringlands? If you do smash ringlands, you will be up for a rebuild PLUS new injectors. How many people do you know who managed to run 250+ rwkw for any period with stock injectors on RB25? Can you afford the 5K+ it will cost you to rebuild the engine with forged internals? For the cost, injectors are pretty cheap insurance for your internals. My 0.02 anyways.

Use the peak hold function. When in the monitor mode, push the right arrow

B-Man, it should make a huge difference - but you would need to be side by side on the same car to know for sure exactly how much in each case - there are just so many variables. Thats why I like the idea of buying a 'known' product - it reduces the number of variables when developing a car. For example - I was getting 1 bar at around 3000rpm with a 0.61 and it came on like a switch, now its around 3800 with a 0.87 (note*) and easy to control with the throttle. From memory (please correct me if I am wrong), Merli was getting 1 bar under 4000rpm with his GT3040 and a 0.87 housing. But as I said, sooooo many variables. Note* When I changed from 0.61 to 0.87 I also upgraded cams and dropped CR to 8.6:1 - at first it didnt make 1 bar until over 5000rpm! It took may different things to get it sorted, even now a Japanese mechanic and Pro D1 driver told me I should be making similar power with less boost and boost alot earlier than I am. He has seen a few of these turbos in action, so I feel confident he knows what he is talking about.

Please do tell.

When will this be going on? what size turbine AR? good luck, it will be interesting to see the results.

No matter how I try, I cannot get used to a corner being changed mid point - when I am at 7-8/10ths it is pretty bloody scary. Also scary in the wet. It is fine for just cruising down the road or around town or if you drive quite sedately. From what I understand it counter steers from about 40-80kmh, then at 80kmh it transitions to steering in the same direction as the front wheels - and that is where the problem lies for me. It will just suddenly change part way through a corner.