Steve

Anyone needs an oil cooler? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=41636

to suit? what did they come off? why are you selling? rotor upgrade needed? where are the pads available from? Cheers

Hangers dont line up, I have already tried it:)

If you can get a rising rate fuel pressure reg, surge tank, and fuel pump fitted for $500 I would love to know where. For $500 you would be looking at a fuel pump and maybe a fuel pressure reg - without fitting, not to mention the surge tank. Realisitically, unless you are closing on 200rwkw, the fuel pump isnt really needed. At around 200 mark it would be worth doing. the cat is killing power, no doubt about it - back pressure is bad. I would remove the bleed valve and plumb it back up the way the factory did. 9 psi is stock boost with a cat back, so it isnt helping at all. Better still wind in a bit more boost, try around 11-12psi. Seeing as you have a decent front mount, it will be fine. The rattling from the fuel rail? did you know that the injectors make a rattling noise, all do it. If you know someone with a skyline, check to see what theirs sounds like. Noise from the PCV valve. This will happen when their is vacuum in the plenum - its supposed to. It is sucking out the crank case gasses. If air lleaks under boost you have a problem. Try removing the valve, and checking that it only allow air to pass in one direction, from the rocker cover to the plenum. If it does all is good. If it allows air to pass both ways you have two options. 1. buy a new valve, which you should be able to pick up from somewhere like autobarn, or 2. block the valve off. This will have no detrimental effect other than maybe causing the idle to change a little, as it isnt sucking air in from the rockers anymore. A common thing to check, every intercooler pipe, vacuum line and anything else you can find - to make sure you have no vacuum leaks. Most skylines are a few years old, and leaks do happen. Also make sure you check your boost guage if you have fitted one. good luck.

100kpa is only 14.5lbs or 1 bar. What does the VL normally run?

Fcd?

I have seen 230rwkw from James (D1 Garage) RB20 - ran in that trim for along time no probs. Upgrade your fuel pump, and a fuel pressure reg at least, then see if still is running lean.

what is the AFM peak reading? have you reset the ecu?

Bai suggested Iget one to raise base fuel pressure to 3KG, as it will assist in making the car more responsive. Also, if you have Sard 550cc injectors, they are rated at 550cc at 3.05kg, at stock pressure 2.55kg, they are around 510cc. they also have a bit more lag than the stock injectors, I have +0.08ms correction for mine and they run sweet, but this is at 2.55kg - havent upped the pressure yet:) soon.

Have you checked your airflow meter reading on the AFC? Mine hit 5.115V at around 4.5-5k rpm with 200rwkw, which wasnt a problem until I got a cold day. Net result was detonation on colder days - perhaps you are leaning out and the ecu has pulled some timing. If it was a one off occurence, it is possible the ecu has pulled some timing in that range - how lucky do you feel:) Best bet is put the car on a dyno where they can check. Even if a tune was done 2 weeks ago, a cold day and you are in trouble when you tune on the edge.

Unless you have witnesses or a police report, you may be in trouble. I have been burnt that way before (3 bloody times - NEVER trust anyone, even appologetic old ladies). If I am ever involved in another accident, no matter how minor, I will get whiplash and insist on the police being called PERIOD. Good luck

Good call on the shims - if you dont put them in the brakes make alot of noise. When you jack the car up to turn the wheel, are you doing one side at a time or both sides? If you are concerned that the handbrake is over adjusted, jack up both rear wheels, and have a look on the inside of the disk/drum (diff side) there is a wheel inside that can be rotated with a screw driver to adjust the tension on the brakes. Back it off until the wheel turns. Better still, take the car back to the original place and get them to do the job properly:)

www.d1garage.com and the photo isnt that bad whatsisname....

ASE do piping kits for coolers, all the bits you need.

Response and lag depend on alot of things. Dont be too quick to think a BB turbo will outperform a bush bearing. Point in note T518Z, which can make 1 bar under 3500rpm on a 2L bottom end (SR20). Older bush bearing turbos though - just dont expect anywhere near the response as from a newer turbo. With a GT30, I am getting 1.2bar at 4000rpm with 0.87 housing. It was not always that good, I had to sort out my exhaust and a few other bits (eg PCV valve) to get it there. I have since been told that by a Japanese mechanic and pro D1 driver, that he believes the turbo is capable of coming on boost earlier, and making more power than it does. He puts this down to tune. Tune can make a huge difference to how a turbo comes on. Judd has bought a Jap trained mechanic over to do some tuning, and in one case, brought boost on 800 odd rpm earlier by tweaking the ecu, with a drop in detonation. Tuning can make or brake a combination, as can any other weak link in the chain. The Jap mechanic I spoke to said he likes to tune around 11 AF ratios, and use timing to get response. This seems to be very different to what most seem to do in Aust (that I have had experience with). They tune for top power, at around 12 AF ratios. I originally started with a 0.61 turbine AR, this was way too small for the street and resulted on boost coming in so hard that the car would step sideways at around 3000rpm even with light throttle, in 4th gear. Not good when you are travelling at 100kph in traffic. As a result I could only use low (1 bar) boost on the street, and a tune of around 256rwkw. Now with a 0.87, it is possible to use the right foot to control boost, so I can run a tune with over 300rwkw on the street, lag is only marginally higher, and I believe it will get lower with the right tune, but still enable control with the right foot. I am using a 40mm wastegate, and it was fine with the 0.61 housing, as it is with the 0.87. If you are going to the 3L bottom end, I beleive the 0.87 would be too small, closer to 1.0 would be my choice.

I think all tyres are cheaper than A048Rs

If you ever need to head down, give me a hoy - I am pretty keen to get down there:)

Dean, I dont know how accurate it is, but if you know where it normally sits when hot, you will get a good idea when its getting hotter than normal, as it gets thinner, and pressure decreases.

Bl4cK32, AFAIK the A032Rs are a control tyre in motorsport, but also the RE55S - I have seen the cams regulations that allow them (or RE540s) The A032Rs may be better, but at nearly twice the price? IMHO they arent worth it, they wont grip twice as well, nor wear twice as long. And, the RE55s do grip well. Lastly, would you believe everything a salesman tells you? He really isnt going to tell you to buy a cheaper tyre (that he cant sell) because its better. I have read alot of independant reviews, and from all accounts, the Yokos and Bridgestone are both very good tyres.

Matts outta control. I thought the throw on my Cs is alot shorter than the stocker. If you compare the two, the fulcrum point is moved, and the part of the stick above the pivot point is alot shorter than the stocker (about 1-2 inches from memory). This has the added advantage of meaning the throw is reduced further. It is a true quickshifter, not a shortened shifter. Minimal movement of the hand equates to maximum result at the other end (fill your boots Matt)

welcome, word of warning, dont ask whatsisname for a photo of his seats he's selling. I am not a native to SA either so your not alone there. What state are you from?

How would the chill factor of spraying water through an AFM effect its accuracy? sounds, form what you posted above Warpspeed, that this may cause troubles?

It really hurts me when someone spends over $40 000 dollars on a car then sells it for less than the cost of the mods. Mainly because my car doesnt have as many mods and I have spend over $40 000 sidewaymambo, if you ever decide to stock the car out (highly recommended) and sell the bits, let me know, I could be very interested in your brake setup, very, very interested. Even might trade for some stockers with endless pads Free bump

Is that an example of the 'class' Cheeky said you had? In that case I have heaps of class:p

Skyrine-Dave, I would love to move to Qld, car mod heaven.