Steve

Well, immediately it becomes a problem when you start talking 'street legal' and comparing different states. In SA, we cannot even fit a BOV, forget turbos (must be stock), turbo timer (even if it is linked to cut out on the hand brake), boost controller (or a bleed), ecus (or interceptors), cams, cam gears, plenum or injectors, external wastegates - they are completely out. Hell even the ride height has to be stock unless engineered - so I suppose if you wanted to go down the 'street legal' path, I think we would all loose to guys that live in queensland or own a pre 1972 car (you can do anything to them here without a problem, twin turbos, supercharge whatever). In Qld, you can fit any size turbo to a car that came out with a turbo, Power fc is legal without even having a permit, EBCs are also legal. I know because I rang them to see about getting my car engineered and the guy kept saying there was nothing to engineer, or issue a mod plate for - he was an 'approved person' under their mod scheme and recommended to me by Qld tpt dept. In Vic, you can only fit a POD or a FMIC, its different everywhere. Bottom line, no matter what the federal laws say, each state interprets them differently - so its not really comparing Apples and Apples when you say 'street legal' now is it?

If you dont run a cooler, you still can monitor oil temps to a degree (no pun intended). As oil heats it gets thinner, the thinner the oil, the lower the pressure. If you watch your oil pressure guage, see where it sits after a decent length drive, it should steady out. This is around normal operating temp. Dont trust your water temp guage alone, it can read full temp, but the oil is still not properly warmed, or it can read normal and the oil is actually getting hot.

2rismo, in NSW you can get a heavily modded car engineered for around $600, in SA it will cost over 2,000 without the emissions test - you blokes have it too good:D

Rev210 and Steve_SST, how do you guys get aftermarket ECUs approved over there. Sarich orbital was doing IM240 tests (the minimum required in WA last I was there) but they stopped doing them about 12 months ago. Now the closest test place is Adelaide, and thats only with a full ADR 3701 test, and costs 3,500 a pop, pass or fail. Have they changed the rules over there? I was hoping to pop over that way in the next few months, and would love to get my mods eng certified while I am over:) Cheers

Dont listen Matt, everyone knows nude photography is the way to go, just dont try and iron the seats when you are taking the photo! my how easily threads degrade:p

Kym sells them for $351, which is cheaper than Falken Azenis semi slicks (R tyres), which start at $360. There was a thread on here not long ago, that stated the best price (that anyone could find them) was $360 for RE55s in a 235/45/17. The price increase could be partly because of the new tyre too, ie RE55 instead of RE540. Its also interesting that while my 255/40/17 fits my 9 inch rim perfectly, the 235s are a bit wider than my 8inch on the front, wider than the last 235s. If I was to fit RE55s to the back, I would only fit a 235, not a 255 - not that I will be in a hurry to do it again soon - too much grip:) On the fronts though, cant see myself running much else.

Sorry if I have confused, I just re-read my post and it doesnt make a heap of sense, so I will try and simplify Viscosity - the higher the number, the thicker the oil SAE test their oil for viscosity at 100 DEG celcius W rating means it is suitable for use in winter - from what I understand this is tested by pouring oil through a specific size hole at 0 DEG celcius, so a 5W will be thinner than a 15W, as higher numbers indicate thicker oil (as for viscosity) But remeber a 50 weight oil will always be thicker than a 40 weight oil which will be thicker than a 30 weight oil AND the 'W' means winter suitable, not the oil weight Hope that makes sense. Something else of interest, is that whilst the higher the number the thicker the oil, the 50, 40, 30 etc are not actual measures of viscosity but EQUATE to ranges of viscosity, viscosity itself is measured in stokes. Also, gear (diff, trans) oil ratings are different to engine oil ratings, for example SAE 75 weight gear oil is actually thinner than SAE 50 weight oil (at 100 DEG celcius) Bobby^, I would suggest you speak to your local performance shop (that you trust) and ask what they recommend. I use MOTUL 300V 15W/50, it was recommended to me by people who swear by it, and also it is used by NISMO in their cars - so it cant be bad. How extreme are the temperatures where you live?

The first figure in multigrade oil refers to how it passed its viscosity testing at winter temperatures, thus the W - this has nothing to do with the hot weight, which is the latter of the two figures. So 5W50 will have the same viscosity at 100 DEG celcius as 15W50 - it is SAE 50, regardless of the 'W' rating. The 'W' measurement is conducted to SAE standards for winter use, ie it has been tested and passed for use at 0 deg F - the lower the number the thinner the oil will be. So 5W oil will be thinner (more viscous) than the 15W at 0 deg F, but the hot rating is the second figure. The two are measured and rated differently, so the figures dont have a direct relationship to each other in that sense. The lower the first number, the thinner the oil will be when cold, the higher the second number the EDIT: thicker the oil will be when hot. Stirlo_GTR how can oil "gets thicker when hotter" oils get thinner as they heat up. The trick with multi grade oils is reducing how much the oil thins so it doesnt end up thinning so much that oil pressure drops too low, and the shear resistance of the oil (which is related to viscosity) is depreciated so far it becomes useless. If you have ever changed your oil after warming the engine, you will know that it thins as it warms.

Nice rims! If you have trouble fitting them, try going undersized rubber. D1s car fits 245s or 255s to 10" rims. Having the sidewall stretched means he can get the rims under the guards, as if the sidewall was vertical they wouldnt fit. It gives greater stiffness therefore improved handling, and the tyre patch on the road is increased. For traction, get adjustable camber arms on the rear to make the most of what you have. I dont think bridgestone do a 18" RE55.

Highly recommend you dont use stock pads, fitting decent pads to the gtst calipers is like a full brake upgrade by comparison, the stockers are very ordinary. I can recommend Endless pads, I have also heard good things about pagid and ferodo.

And what is wrong with the photo I took??????? dammit, I am sure I put copyright on those photos! oh, bugger, no I didnt:) Matt, can I suggest you give e-bay a go if you have trouble moving them, as I have seen them go for more than $650 on there.

definately, toe can have a huge effect on handling.

Shouldnt be hitting the castor rods. I have 17x8 up front with no probs. What are the alignment settings? You should have received a written readout of the final settings. Also, you may need spacers to stop the wheels rubbing on the castor rods - it sounds like they are the wrong offset.

I am keen also, shame it wont be a drift/thrash/do what you want arrangement though:( Then again, with a bit of overzealous trail braking now and again:) Anyways, have you though about doing a combined driving/drifting type event. Just run a few sessions, one to try for good times, one to try and destroy the rear tyres - keep everyone happy that way, probably get a few of the PSI and sylvia forum guys taking a bit more interest too.

MADGT4, definately interested in a track day, it would be good to get on there without having to worry about trying to compete, and just having a thrash. Maybe you should start a new thread?

COPYME, at least you had the opportunity to show the guy exactly how funny it was. Alot more than most victims get, but good on you for showing him the light.

The twin plates come with their own lightened flywheel.

snake, I got mine from D1 Garage, paid around $1200, and I love it:) when I consider how much the extreme cost, I just wish I had been able to pick up a twin at that price in the first place.

Thanks Busky, makes sense. And sounds like the O2 sensor isnt stuffed then, which is a good thing. I will recheck what its doing again and see if I cant make sense of it. Cheers

It was an excellent event - big ups to Thien (sorry is spelling isnt right). Some nice cars, and some good talent. IMO it did a huge amount for imports and drift in SA. The announcers were loving it, the officials were loving it. They kept on going on about how anybody who has ever owned a car know the joy of putting it sideways - and no one said otherwise. It was also pointed out to the president of the Sporting Car Club of SA that Drift is the future of motorsport in australia! He was really wrapped with the turnout, as they probably have trouble finding people who get into Car clubs like theirs. Anyways the writing is on the wall and I hope they took notice. Found out something else that is quite interesting, Mallala is open most days and you just have to show up and pay a fee to take the car on the track. Now that they have hosted a comp there, they may be more likely to let lads go and thrash their cars and get a bit of sideways action, as I have heard in the past they frowned on it. Might have to do some investigating on that one. Anyone who has any details please let me know, cheers. I reckon if the guy in the VB had a properly set up drift car, he could well have gone to the last - he could punt that thing hard, really high entry and corner speeds - it was nuts. Can only agree with slyr33, James was the best out there, consistant, linked every corner and his car just looked so damn good on the track - sort of makes me want to buy a silvia:) 4doorsleeper, I wouldnt have gone out for the girl alone, no matter what she looked like. She wasnt too bad, and a nice girl to talk to as well. The driving was definately worth going out for, excellent venue for it, they just need to stick a corner coming off turn 2 to the back straight so they can come across and link it with 4 - maybe throw in another couple of bends on the way:p Anybody who didnt go, missed out.

Joel, that would be awesome, can you pm me when and where I could catch up? Cheers

BCP6ES or BCPR6ES BCPR6ES, which are the ones I think you mean, should be very very common, if you cant find them at any marlows, see if they have BCPR6ES-11. The difference is the 11s are gapped to 1.1mm, so just regap them to 0.8 and all is good.

Sorry to hear 4door, dirty low life scum, how I would enjoy beating the crap out of someone if I ever caught them doing something like that - to anybodies car...

I agree Chris, some people dont have a clue, I see alot more holden and ford drivers doing crazy sh1t on the roads - and not in modded cars either, usually the heaps of crap. When the imports are all off the road, they will only have local built cars to pick on. People will drive like d1ck heads no matter what cars they are in, its the driver not the car. I know people that thrash their commodores up through the hills, so its not the unique domain of the import owner. Hell some drunken d1ck in a ford decided to do a reverse gear burnout through an intersection and just about hit Deans car (I was passenger) one night during a cruise. If your neighbours think its just jap car drivers, then they are unfortuneately stereotyping. Not much anybody can do about that - its human nature somewhat.

I am a bit confused too, as I checked the voltage under the sensor check option on the power fc, so it hasnt been molested by the ecu, it just reports what is sees. Also, 0.0V is reported on decel, which I would have thought it would be seeing max O2, as it cuts fuel on decel. It definately isnt lean at idle, where it also shows 0.0V, I had to pump a fair bit in to get it nice with the cams - so it appears to be wrong somewhere. Maybe I will have to just bite the bullet and get a new oxy sensor. I hate spending money on things unless I am sure I need to:)