Steve

Meh

Meh

AFAIK its still going ahead - have to check. James was trying to get it orgainised for mid May to coincide with the Drift day - he mentioned Bai was planning on heading over at the same time so he could carve up Mallala. I will have to confirm dates, unless autObarn is out there and can confirm?

meshmesh, great result. On the thing of dumps - I understand fully if you are 100% happy with your result, so I aint being smart. I found huge gains in the exhuast side. back pressure really started killing my power above around 290rwkw. I upgraded to a freer flowing exhaust and brought boost on around 600rpm earlier, turbos were more responsive and I picked up top end. Have you thought about getting the cat removed - this too can really crispen up the throttle and bring boost in earlier. And as for dumps, well there again I think you would find more response and less lag. For a street car, if you can get good response in by around 3-3500 its just about perfect. Anyways each to their own. you have a great result there.

Seriously Dean? you must be colour blind. By the way, where did you get the nice custom green paint on your 'line?

Yes you should get better fuel economy. If you disable the closed loop when tuning, you are running purely from the maps, which is what you want.

Just noticed too, that the impedance of the injectors (gtr to sard 700) is out by 0.3 ohms, would this have a bearing on the lag, as there is a bit more difference between mine and the stock injectors 11.5 to 14 ohms?

Merli, goddamit, I was keeping them a secret:( Dean, you could buy the D Jetro, and I will swap you:) Emre, that is the top feed version of http://www.ap-engineering.co.jp/el/inj_side.htm which states the difference to be 0.06 in my case. I will give it a go again with more than I wound in last time and see how it goes, cheers.

closed loop is when the car goes into cruise mode, it monitors the AF mixtures (via the oxygen sensor) and gradually pulls fuel until it has leaned right off - I have read of the mixtures going as lean as 18:1. This only happens when there has been no change to the throttle and load for a given (not sure how much) time. Disabling the closed loop will mean the car runs purely from the map and wont pull the fuel.

SK, I think you are the ultimate sceptic. I didnt put new oil in my car, I added it approx 1000kms before the change is due (now overdue by 250kms my bad). Ask yourself also, what makes mobil 1 different to castrol magnatec? its the additives. My brother used to refine oil for a living and explained to me that all oil companies put additives in their oils, just as they do their petrol, bet there were a few people out there that didnt know that! Yep, for example in WA if you buy Mobil, or shell, its actually BP. When they take delivery of it, they just dose it with their own secret additives, and they also dont release their oil blends, just vague speils about its fantastic results and how its the best on the market. Why is it that Nismo only use Motul 300V 15W50? it costs alot more than castrol gtx? or mobil 1. Perhaps its different? Well it is, because it has different additives as well as probably being manufactured slightly differently. Different friction modifiers, polymers (plastics). The same things that have raised concern here, long chain polymers (if my memory serves). Hmm, the stuff off the shelf now doesnt sound so good - but if the oil companies put it in there it must be good? What additives do Motul use in their 300V 15W50 to justify charging $75 odd for 4 litres? Oil companies sell billions of dollars in oil (the oil rig where my brother is currently, it nets somewhere close to 20million dollars a day) - why would they care about Roil? Mobil doesnt go head to head with Motul, or Omega (not even available in Aust, probably because its so damn expensive) - using your logic, they would if there was a dollar to be made. Its in a niche market, and hey, you have to add it to oil, so why would they even be concerned, after all you still buy their wonderful oil that is better than any other (if you believe their advertising) Would it have the market to be economically viable and return a positive bottom line (public company)? It would take a pretty big investment, and can they guarantee it will keep the investers happy? Ask yourself also would you ever put redline shockproof in a gearbox? Its very expensive, its even a funny colour, blue milky looking oil. If you have, did you satify all the above criteria before doing so, or did you just work on word of mouth recommendations? Has anyone done any analysis to make sure its ok before they put it in? doubt it. What makes it different? well for one thing, it has additives in it. Do redline tell anyone what is in there? no way. I agree with the dyno thing, realistically it wouldnt prove much. When I put my adj exhaust cam gear on it made 15rwkw difference (back to back) - this was hardly noticeable on the dyno, but made a difference on the road. such small figures would need an extremely exacting environment to be worth while. I could post up a dyno sheet with an extra 50rwkw, as you well know. Some people are very sceptical, I am. But I truely do believe if you are too much of a sceptic, good things can pass you by because you wont move past what you know and accept something that you are not familiar with - bit like people who only drive V8 commodores. Why not take a leap of faith, its not that expenisve that it would brake the bank. Even better still, sneak some into your son's car, dont tell him. Then go back and take it for a test drive after 750 odd kays:) Hey, if it does do nothing, I will buy you a beer the next time your in adelaide, or even a couple of bourbans;)

I didnt, I bought it and notice you have red, which is very passe, mine is green:p

has anybody found out why post quick reply only lets you reply once every 30 seconds? hardly a quick reply

ok, well here it is: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ushop.php to the menu for what costs what - and note, there are only 43 glowing names left:) so keep on whoring

a link

is

here

Cheers, I will have a play. Is that the normal sort of lag to use with sard injectors? To clarify (sorry, last post was a bit vague), when I have changed any settings whilst an EL was pesent, to try and stabilise the idle, it messed with the normal idle - I also couldnt find any indicator in the sensor check function on the hand controller.

Did I mention my name now glows:D

ROLMAO, obviously you have no idea who has been using your computer - sometimes cookies are not your friend.

finally a glowing usename:) now must get more points.....

Maybe Dean has been utilising the Thief! function?

Sent you a pm ecenshu, I live just around the corner from PVP, so I am sure we can work something out.

Dean, mesh fixed the idle, its not very good without load or with AC on - just with EL it gets a bit erratic, but nothing like it was even at normal idle before the mesh was added, it was bloody painful. Emre, I think I have around 0.12ms in the injector menu, do you suggest more? I tired bumping it to 0.16 but it made no difference at all. I really dont want to mess with the AF meter correction if possible, it really is a last resort. Plus, so far every time I mess with things under EL it just throws the idle out when the load is removed. Perhaps I need a D Jetro:)

At a guess, I would say yes. The reason being, the power fc is basically a stock ecu that has been modified to allow adjustments to be made. I was told its acutally got an internal piggyback setup, that also allows other functions such as boost control.

Hmm, I wouldnt like my knock to be going so high - the highest I would like to see is in the 30s, currently I get 20s max with over 300rwkw. If it went to 48, I would be pulling a degree of timing (IGN/INJ option in SETTINGS menu) its hard to say if 380km per tank is good, if you can tell me how many km/L you are getting it would be easier to say. when I had around 200rwkw, I was getting 10L/100km for cruising, around 12-13 if I was driving hard.