Steve

Well I have a set of fronts, rears are still being used at the moment, but soon hopefully, I will have upgraded them to. They are normal height I am pretty sure.

filler hole should be on the side of the diff - just pour it in until it comes out the hole - then its full. I use castrol 85 weight, works fine (no dramas yet). I have a 2 way diff, so I am a bit wary of oils like shock proof.

Well I have been trying my hardest to whore, but I must face facts, I am no where near the whore that you are Dean. Perhaps you could give me some pointers?

You mean you got your car through regency with lowered springs???? What rate are they, if you want some firmer than stock one, but normal height, I might be able to do a deal for your. Congrats on the new ride. Oh, and normally rattling clutch happens when you have more than 1 plate, so may be a twin. They would tend to have a heavier pressure plate and a more savage bite (well mine does anyways:)). Dont know about squeaking when it engages though? but still a twin plate for nicks, good chance you may have some other goodies as well.

I drive like an old mole Dean.

I am not sure how it would operate with the LT8, mine only works in gear, must be set up with a neutral switch. I only noticed it because my car was hunting a little, and it made a sound similar to when a wire arcs out - so I investigated:)

yep, switches on just above idle, then off at ~4500rpm. You should be able to hear the solenoid clicking as it comes on.

I am definately there, I am pretty sure James (D1 Garage) has Bai coming out again, might have to see if I can scam another ride:)

Yeah, and that I have had a gut full of the imbalance, so want to get it sorted. If I cant find anything in the next day or two, I am going to buy some new.

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html that is what the factory sets it to, I have run these figures through dyno 2003 software with larger cam specs and came up with the same switch off point as being optimum - can definately tell the difference when its not connected:)

Hmm string.... as long as its natural fibre, I am not a big fan of synthetic string. Think you might have to take some photos and start up a 'string' thread:D

Another thought Matt, put the stocker back on the inlet, reconnect the NVCS, use the inlet adjustable cam for the exhaust side, sell the inlet cam as an exhaust cam, and you can have your bottom end response back with extra mod money:)

with INJ map it alters fuel only. Try adjusting up or down by one or two increments at a time - and keep an eye on the AF ratios. Higher number = more fuel = you can run more timing before detonation occurs. Vice versa for lower numbers. Changing the mixtures at cruise should not effect the driveablity of the car, just increase the economy - closed loop will also help there. Under WOT, the leaning out the mixtures will increase power, to a point - BUT the leaner the fuel the less IGN advance you can run before detonation will occur. Also, lean fuel mixtures will give you no room for error, such as heat soaked intercooler, poor fuel, fouled plugs etc, so beware. Advancing the timing (IGN map), higher number, will give more power, but also by running the mixtures on the rich side (say 11:1, 11.5:1), you can wind in more ignition and get a more responsive tune. Peak power may be lost though, as fuel generally makes more power with leaner (12:1) mixtures. Retarding ingnition, lower number, will have the opposite effect - you should remove ignition if there are any signs of detonation, ie adjust the number down. If the AF ratios are good, just tweak the ignition - of course keeping an eye on the knock and AF ratios as you do it. Remember, if you tune on the edge, one little variation above what the computer can compensate for, and it may end in tears - so conservative (to a point of course) is good for the sake of safety. Once you have you AF ratios sorted, start playing with the timing. Once you have the best result you can have - Add one degree of timing across the board. Keep a close eye on the knock sensor, it will give you a good idea of what is going on. I also monitor knock trends on the hand controller. If knock starts reaching higher levels, its very easy to just pull 1 degree at a time until its back where it should be. This is done in the IGN/INJ menu (different to IGN or INJ menu) under settings. And changes made effect all cells of the map, so just by taking 1 deg off, you have taken it off everywhere - very handy tool. BUT, once you turn the ignition off, any changes in the IGN/INJ menu you have made in will be lost. Please be very carefull when tuning your car - it is very easy to destroy an engine, as many experienced tuners will attest to. ******DISCLAIMER******** IF YOU DAMAGE YOUR ENGINE, I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY IN ANY WAY. I RECOMMEND YOU TAKE YOUR CAR TO AN APPROPRIATELY EXPERIENCED VEHICLE TUNER AND GET THE CAR TUNED ON A DYNO.

Hi guys, anybody out there got some decent springs they need to get rid of? (the cheaper the better, as I may have to try a couple of combinations:)) I hope (not 100% sure) I need standard size (diameters) springs (or lowered, I have height adjustable shocks), but want heavier rates. The springs also have to be uneven top and bottom, ie, not flattened. At the moment, I think I have 8kg fronts which seem ok, but the rears are way too soft. So, if anyone has some sitting around that they would like to get rid of, please let me know asap, before I order some new ones. I am chasing 5-6kg rears, or sets of 10kg/8kg or 8kg/6kg - even might be interested in trying some 12/10s - just for sh1ts and giggles. Cheers Steve

Also, have you tried loosinging the solenoid to see if you have oil pressure there? may be vapour lock?

Does the solenoid (in the side of the head) 'click' when the revs go above the point set for it to activate? mine does, but only when not in neutral (R33 with power fc, utilises a neutral switch). Have you tested for voltage across the plug that goes into the NVCS solenoid on the head?

hey prank, you shouldnt need to post to pick up points?

Did you tap an oil feed between the block and the NVCS gallery?

do you have a URL?

Bugger... hopefully there is something on the full Excel software.

Skyrine-Dave, I was also under the impression that the designation R was used for a hybrid turbo with different spec compressor and turbine. Garrett dont use naming conventions like GT3040 as such - perhaps this is something started by the local turbo manufacturers to cash in on HKS's popularity? From what I was told the GT series just use the first two numbers ie, GT30. This is what I was told by a turbo shop anyhow.

Yep, us old farts cant stay up late at night, plays havoc with the incontinence:p so what do the different thing mean? I havent got enough points for much at all by the looks - perhaps dean can lend me some of his whore gotten gains?

I cant remeber sizes exactly, but they are the stock size from all appearances, also the top and bottom is offset, as the stock ones are - thanks for the kind offer though. I will try and measure them this weekend.

Hmm, perhaps I have the old type, I only have 4 adjustments on the front, and two on the rear? Thanks for the reply, it gives me a good starting point

nothing to do with it? Dude, that was YOUR comment, you stated they design the 'worlds best' lubricants - perhaps you just dont know what the hell you are talking about? Then you talk about other people's credibility, after you use an unfactual point to try and shoot someone down Perhaps you should lay off the wizz before you try and string together a coherant post? If you cannot back up your statements with some sort of evidence - where the hell is your credibility, yet you try and slam someone who has not only provided evidence - but put his money where his mouth is.