Jump to content
SAU Community

Steve

Members
  • Posts

    5,216
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Steve

  1. If you are only after 250rwkw, perhaps a GT30 will be too big. Go the GT35R, dont be weak:D
  2. OK, my experiences: They are pretty time consuming to tune, you should use a passenger to monitor AF ratios, knock and map points if tuning on the road. First see if you are running closed loop or not, in ETC, under FUNCTION SELECT. It can be enabled and disabled in the same way knock warning is. Do you have aftermarket injectors? If so you need to make injector correction on the 'injector' menu in settings. If you are using an adjustable FPR, you will need to determine the flow with the adjusted fuel pressure to make the injector correction values. This is what the power fc uses to determine how much fuel to use when running closed loop - and can make a massive difference to your fuel economy. If these are already OK, ie fuel correction (if applicable) and closed loop were already correct, then you may need to remap. BUT, if you needed to make changes to them, this may fix the problem, and it would be worth driving for a while to see how economy is. Fuel economy under boost is something that probably wont make a huge difference to economy unless you are boosting 100% of the time - most fuel economy gains seems to come from sorting the maps for just driving in traffic or cruising. To check the maps for part throttle: Firstly, switch off the closed loop function (you will need to switch it on again later) Maintain 60kph in 4th, check the AF ratios and which map point you are using (via the map trace). In SETTINGS, go to INJ then to the appropriate map point (as found from the map trace) - from here you can make the necessary adjustments. You should aim for A/F ratios of 14.5, as this is stoich. Do the same for other speeds that you normally drive at, 80, 100 etc and in the gears you normally drive at those speeds at. MAKE SURE, you monitor knock levels. If the knock starts to rise (it should be very low, 1-3 at this stage, you are just cruising), back off timing by 1 degree increments, 1 degree makes a fair difference, then check it again. This is done in the IGN menu. That is a basic run down on cruise economy tuning. For power, AF ratios should be alot lower - if you are tuning yourself, do a run at WOT (keep a close eye on knock) - check the map trace, then adjust fuel for those cells until it is stable - I would suggest trying around 11:1. Do runs from 2-3000rpm, then adjust until they are ok, then do 3-4000rpm, etc. Use 4th gear, as this is where most load is on the car. After you have sorted the AF ratios, then its time to attack the timing. Add timing until knock levels start to rise once again, try and keep knock under 10, when you get to 10, pull one degree, check knock is down, then repeat the process for the next cell. You will have a rough idea where the timing needs to be from the previous point. As mentioned this is a lengthy process - it can take many hours. ******DISCLAIMER******** IF YOU DAMAGE YOUR ENGINE, I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY IN ANY WAY. I RECOMMEND YOU TAKE YOUR CAR TO AN APPROPRIATELY EXPERIENCED VEHICLE TUNER AND GET THE CAR TUNED ON A DYNO.
  3. er, but the point of the arguement is if he DIDNT move forward, he WOULD of been hit - isnt the burden on the law to prove that if he DIDNT move forward he WOULD NOT have been hit? that is what having mitigating circumstances is all about, just like the guy on the motorbike who was excused speeding as he argued it was the only way he could avoid being hit by a car - the case was dismissed. Would a precedent from Vic be admittable in NSW?
  4. what gives you the idea that the best engine lubricants come from Mobil? I would have thought Motul is far, far superior to Mobil, then there is Omega (not available in Aust). If Mobil is sooo good, why dont all independant motorsport drivers (those not being sponsored by an oil company) use them, esp wben they are generally alot cheaper than other 'inferior' brands
  5. Thanks for the replies, shall have a play and see how it goes cheers:)
  6. No photos, well that would be the first thing I would be bringing up! No photos means no evidence. Dont plead guilty, as soon as you do, you are rooted. Tell them exactly what happened, that you saw the intersection was clear, that you were concerned the car behind was going to have trouble stopping. Dont interupt the magistrate, be polite. At the end of the day, you are going to have to pay costs whether you plead guilty or not guilty. Ask if you can pay the fine at $50 per month, if they do end up stinging you - as you are on a limited income:)
  7. I think my mouse is on the fritz, my bloody thread just chernobyled:(:(
  8. How do you bank them?
  9. and growing by the post, I wonder how many points you get for starting a thread? might have to give it a go:p
  10. and growing by the post, I wonder how many points you get for starting a thread? might have to give it a go:p
  11. Just one more post and I have 400 points:)
  12. :headspin:
  13. points
  14. more
  15. Need
  16. I must be bored - you broke the chain, bloody hell, now I gotta start again:)
  17. think
  18. I
  19. Enrico
  20. than
  21. more
  22. post
  23. must
  24. hmm, so how many people are likely to be wearing fluro pink?
  25. SK, do you use whiteline adjustable sway bars? what is your preferred setting for spirited driving? Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...