Steve

Regency Chick, where was it on Mullers Rd that these guys have moved to?

If it makes you feel better Joel, I ripped my rear bar off in the carpark at work - bloody kerbs. Just though you might like to hear about other people who have repair bills too:p

I have a 2 way, but the understeer actually reduced when I fitted it - probably because I could push harder through the corners under acceleration. The thing is the understeer is occuring under constant speed cornering, not if trail braking (must admit, I try and avoid trail braking:))- and when I power on, it goes away as well. I could understand it if it was only under accel or decel.

can you lock power fc?

8K, why do you consider that to be 'a massive spring rate'? I have been in cars (S14, Supra) with 12kg front springs and they handled alot better than mine does. The ride currently is firm but not kidney jarring.

Roy, can you point me in the direction of any evidence that street built cars are being complied to aust standards with Aftermarket ECUs? I am doing a bit of research into vehicle emissions, aftermarket ECUs and compliance with ADRs. Cheers heaps for any help.

Thanks SK

Thats negative camber - angled out gave me the idea you wanted to angle the top of the wheel out. With negative camber, get some adjustable arms or you can get bushes to achieve the same. Too much camber and you may start to experience bump steer, which can be a bit hairy, but you wont know exactly how it goes until you dial it in, as different spring/damper rates and ride heights can also effect bump steer. check out www.whiteline.com.au for alot of good explanations on suspension and alignment terms, they also sell alot of the bushes and kits to help with getting the alignment results you may want. also, speak to D1 Garage (www.d1garage.com) as they can source alot of suspension parts from Japan at good prices. Tyre size and type can also make huge differences to the handling, as obviously a good wheel alignment will make. Probably the best place to start would be with coilovers, or shocks and springs - then get a wheel alignment done and go from there.

Oh, and Rev210 fitted a lightened flywheel and found no detrimental effects with it, only positive results. FYI D1 Garage have a second hand toda for sale at the moment too.

Lightened flywheel, lightened wheels, lightened tail shaft, lightened pulleys are all good. But you can also lighten your car - rip up the carpet and remove all the sound deadening, remove the boot trim and the spare wheel, remove the rear seats. Not only will you increase responsiveness, as the car gets lighter, it brakes and corners better too. If you can remove 70-80kg - that have as much difference as between when you have a passenger in the car and when you drive alone - every bit helps. If you have management, get it tuned with AF ratios around 11:1 and add more timing - this too will increase responsiveness. Its how one of Signal's D1 drivers suggested I should tune my car to increase responsiveness. He also suggested that running a base fuel pressure of 3kg (instead of stock 2.5) would help, with the right tune, to increase response further.

Vacuum isnt too bad, I have had alot worse with previous cars that had bigger cams:) Owned a 351 with a 270 cam - that thing had no brakes below 1200rpm. I wouldnt be surprised if the settings for elec load is something that can be changed with Excel software - if worse comes to worse, I am pretty confident the signal tuner coming out in May will be able to sort it. But I would like to get it sorted before then. I have tried adjustments through idle setting, but they only effect ac on and off. I have done the whole initial idle thing, but it wouldnt idle properly with elec load even after 10 minutes. Cheers

Never seen wheels angled out??? If you want to set up your suspension for drift, start with a good set of coilovers, with reasonably hard springs. There are alot of mods you can do to suspension, castor rods, rear cradle hardmount bushes, pineapples, swaybars, camber arms, pillow ball tie rod ends, strut braces, roll cage, even wheels spacers will all make a difference to the handling.

sounds a bit like 'the fish john west reject', perhaps a way of them selling the seconds?

shall check it out, cheers:)

thanks for the replies, busky, I only get around 10-12in/Hg at idle, I am not sure how much it is effected by electrical load - on the map tracer, the load changes from 2 to 3. Gav, I have already tried winding in more timing, with the result that idle is effected with once the electrical load has stopped, might just try winding in a bit more and see how it goes.

Hi, Just wondering if anybody know if there is a setting to adjust idle on the power fc during electical load. Idle quality is very good normally, and with AC on, but as soon as an electrical load is placed on the engine, such as turning on the headlights, the idle quality deteriorates somewhat, and the engine hunts by around 2-300rpm. Idle is set at 950rpm, I have 256/264cams, sard 550cc injectors, bosch 044 fuel pump, Z32 afm. I have tried adjusting the fuel correction (adding fuel) in the water temp menu, but this only makes the idle deteriorate further. I have tried pulling fuel and adding timing to get the idle stable, but then idle quatlity off load deteriorates. Anybody have any ideas or experienced this problem before? Cheers Steve

Absofarkinglutely:)

Mark, I agree totally about the whole black art thing - its takes alot of work, and one thing that gives great results in one car, may not work for another. I have driven in a couple of cars set up jap style, slammed, widened, heaps of castor and camber, hard springs - and I liked it. The cars handle like go-karts, I liked it alot. I prefer a bit of oversteer than understeer - which is what I have at the moment. I find oversteer with a mechanical diff (which I have) quite easy to control. Having said that, I dont want a tail happy car either - but I dont own a MR2;) I want less body roll because I have too much for my liking - I dont want a car that wallows around - when I push my car, it feels to me (passengers have stated otherwise) that my car bodyrolls a bit too much. I also realise that going too hard on springs can cause more trouble than it cures - but I am definately not there yet. I dont want a car that will bounce me off the road if I hit a bump. I dont want to completely remove body roll - but I definately have more than suits my driving style, and currently its too much. I have asked a mate that I know can drive very well to take it for a spin to see what he thinks - he came up with the same problems I did, lazy turn in, too much understeer, too much body roll. I appreciate your words of caution, but at the end of the day, it sometimes takes trial and error to get it 'just right'. If you have any hints, things you have tried that helped, please do share - as I am open to suggestions:) Bottom line is, until you try for yourself, it can be hard to say when it comes to fine tuning a car's sus - what one person loves, another may hate. Cheers Steve

Thanks for all the input guys - spose its time to adjust my front sway bar. GenisisR32, nice article, makes sense now - the harder the front sway bar, the more weight comes off the inside front wheel - which also ties in with accellerating bring the weight back onto the front inside wheel, thus the sudden bite. Only one problem, I still have a little more body roll than I would like, will backing off the front increase the body roll dramatically? The article Genisis R32 posted the link to suggests a tighter rear sway bar will have the same effect as loosening the front - does anyone make heavier sway bars for the rear than the whiteline adjustable?? Thanks again Steve Edit, my ultimate aim is to be able to push the car a bit harder. I am thinking I might just have to buy some wheel spacers and see how much they help, cos I dont want any more body roll than I have, if anything I want less. Also, transferring the weight back to the front inside tyre will result in weight coming off a drive tyre, which means more prone to oversteer...... ah, to find the perfect solution:( the merits of the japanese tendancy to dump the car and fit hard springs and wheel spacers (or wheels with crazy offsets) is really starting to look good to me.

If you would be happy with a perfect condition stock wheel, why not see how much it would cost to get yours recovered - may be cheaper than replacing it.

no - too big for a 'normal' rb25 Nothing stock looking about a 3037PROS Skyrine Dave - the whole garrett vs HKS thing has been discussed in depth in a monstor thread, so if you want several opinions, try a search:)

well, there are alot of different things that can cause detonation and powerloss. BOV leaking or leak in one of the intercooler pipes and vacuum lines is the first place I would be looking. Then you could check the injectors are flowing ok, if you have an adjustable fuel pressure reg, is the pressure the right - its easy for someone to accidentally fark with shit when its sitting on a work bench. A couple of places that may be worth looking at anyways - alot of stuff can happen to an engine when it is pulled apart.

Hmm, drift day is on then too - might make for a very memorable day:)

Have you checked your plugs - thats the first place I would be looking. As for clutch of ecu, if your clutch is slipping, well all the power mods in the world wont make your car go any better, just burn the clutch further until its undriveable - easy choice.

WTF is Enchanted????