Steve

As a comparison, here is a more recent dyno with my dyno before the exhaust swap overlayed

Nice job on the RE55s, how do you rate them? and how much for the DJ01s (235/45/17)? I can probably organise freight from here if the price makes it worth while, please pm me:)

Joel, think about how much claiming on insurance really costs $1000 excess 65% NCB (say around another $500 to $1000) then, it takes you another 5 years to get back to rating one, IF you can get insurance, so for the next five years it will probably cost you near enough to another 1-2K. Not really that cheap - unless you have NCB protection. If I remeber correctly MattR couldnt get insurance after his R32 was written off, different I know, but it might be worth checking to make sure you will be able to get re-insured again when the renewal is due. For all those parts, have you tried seeing if you can get a cash discount;) always brings prices down for me, also have you tried the more obscure jap wreckers?

Jeez mate not good. I would suggest that you find all the bits yourself, ie, go to the usual places, D1, JMS etc - you will save a few dollars that way. Is there major structural damage? most of it looks like you could just bolt on new bits. Good luck anyways.

http://www.stfu.se/stfu.swf

I thought it may be the grip of the front tyres, but why then do the tyres grip when the car accelerates? wouldnt the weight transition to the rear of the car cause more understeer? Or is it a case of the change in inertia allowing the tyres to bite better? Either way, I would like to get some R rubber on the front, and something a little less grippy on the rear. I had a similar problem when I was running revspecs all round. Anyone got some legal second hand 235/45/17 R tyres they want to get rid of?

How much (per litre) do they charge for it when you put avgas in an plane these days? Got any spare 44 gallon drums sitting around:)

I was under the impression that the sticker was a warning sticker stating you must change the timing belt every 100,000kms - and that all skylines have it, or at least are supposed to to be complied?????

Actually come to think of it, the more handling mods, the harder I can push the car, so the more pronounced the problem....

I have goodyear revspec front and RE540s rear. Although the hicas is on the rear, it effects steering too - I am pretty sure it is the HICAS, but was interested to know if anybody had this problem and found it was caused by anything else. Its sort of strange, but the more handling mods I do, the worse it gets, with the last being the roll cage, its just really p1ssing me off now.

Not sure exactly what you mean, it was barely idling - does this mean it was idling rough? Boost coming in early could be because the ecu was reset. If you have troubles with the idle, check the one thing you farked with - the ecu plug. That's where I would look first. Make sure its located properly, that no pins were bent etc. Must ask, why did you disconnect the ECU? If you just want to do a reset, it is quicker and easier to just lift the negative terminal off the battery.

I agree with Blitz, they are a work of art, and they do the job (once again, ask SLY33)

Hi all, I have been playing with my sus a bit of late, and still seem to have a nagging problem with understeer at medium and high speeds. going through a corner, maintaining speed I get understeer. If, into the corner I accellerate, the understeer disappears, rather suddenly, causing me to go too deep into the corner - its a bit frustrating, and a bit dangerous as the transition is very quick, not always allowing enough time to adjust properly - havent come unstuck yet thank god. I have changed my front camber arms, running approx 2deg camber, castor is around 9degrees. I have whiteline swaybars adjusted to full tension, pineapples and hardmounts on the rear cradle, 1/2cage, and ohlins adjustables with 8kg springs front and softish (perhaps 3kg, unsure exactly) springs in the rear. I use damping to counter the soft springs in the rear, and hope to update these soon, I will be fitting a hicas lock bar and wheel spacers soon too. Ride height is 345mm center of wheel to guard. Does anybody have any ideas what can be causing this understeer problem? Anybody have similar dramas? My first thought is its the bloody hicas doing its thing? Cheers Steve

:whackit: who needs to even drive it! I could just park it in my driveway and I would never need another thing in my life.

Oh, and I think the reason ULP doesnt work in leaded engines, is the lead (or additive in LRP) actually lubricates the valves? so ULP would result in excessive wear and lots of oil being burnt. Spose that sort of undoes the whole anti pollution theories of not selling leaded fuel.

I just spoke to my brother who came over for the weekend from WA, as far as he knows, they still sell LRP in WA. Interesting part is, LRP doesnt have lead in it at all. My brother used to work at BP refinery, as a process operator (cracked crude into its components), now works off shore though. He told me the reason BP actually made 98 ron, was at the time govt regulations were going to completely outlaw leaded, and the oil companies wanted to come up with an unleaded replacement fuel. The spent a fortune on new facilities to enable the low sulphur 98 ron fuel production - and then the govt relaxed its position to allow LRP. I hope they dont increase the duty on premium unleaded to compensate for the loss of on LRP. 9krpm, I wish I could get unleaded AVGAS, there is a servo around the corner from me that sells a 100ron blend (swear its acutally 101, but sell it as 100) - the stuff is $1.35 a litre though. AVGAS for an aircraft, doesnt attract anywhere near the same tax that the same stuff being sold for cars does - last time I looked at the price (a couple of years ago now) it was under 50c a litre. Anybody here own or operate a light aircraft:D

If someone is going to spend over 130k on a car, that is advertised as having run 9 seconds - well, I would run a mile in the other direction if I found out the seller was pulling my chain. Credibility, in a world full of bullsh1t, is very important - and used car sales, be it private or business isnt exactly renouned for being 100% above board. False advertising is illegal in the retail sector for a reason. I wonder if someone did buy it, then found out it wasnt a 9 second car, would they have legal recourse? After all, you did put it in writing. From the looks, the car is nice enough to sell itself without any unfactual embelishment.

Another one worth looking at is Arrow Diffs, if you do a search you will find them. Just remember, if you buy a second hand brand name, it will retain its value after you fit it;)

Try dropping SLY33 a pm, he fitted one to his car, as his turbo was choking top end, he thought it was a good thing. Ask yourself what impact turbulance in the dump pipe makes? would it increase back pressure or reduce it? Or would it make no difference? Also, does yours have the seperator block between the turbine outlet and dump? If so, what effect would that have? Basic fact of turboed cars (in fact all cars) is that reduced back pressure will mean better flow, better flow will mean faster exhaust gasses, faster exhaust gasses will mean better cylinder scavenging and quicker spooling turbo. I am not saying that Trust, HKS or any other brand make the perfect dump, but really, have a look at the brick wall the stock dump presents for the wastegate, it wouldnt be very hard to improve on. And another thing with Jap second hand parts 99 chances out of 100, if you buy something second hand, its going to retain most of its value if you fit it and decide its no good. If you have a stock turbo, IMHO the most gains you will receive are from the front pipe, but upgrade the turbo and its a different story.

Congrats on a great result, hope you get that 12. If you dont mind me asking, how much are the coolers from THEINTERCOOLERGUY? my mate is after one at the moment. goodluck

What do you hope to achieve by removing it?

Well, I can only report good things. It took a good 300-400kms before I noticed a difference, at first I was very sceptical, and thought perhaps the differences were due to weather changes (getting cooler). Now, after 750 (approx) kms, I can say with confidence, that its not the weather - having experieced warmer days as well as cooler mornings, traffic jams and open winding roads. My car is daily driven, and gets the odd spirited drive throught twisty bits. To quantify the results, I dont have back to back dynos, but here is what I found from the driver's seat: Off boost torque is greatly improved - the car is running smoother. before using roil, I was unable to shift to 4th gear before around 63-65kmh, as the engine laboured enough that I didnt feel comfortable, 5th gear was only for use above 75khm in a straight line (higher if going up inclines or hills of course). I think this is partly due to running aftermarket cams and a decompressed engine. Overall, the engine runs alot smoother. Now I find that I can drive in 4th gear at 50kmh no probs , even accelerate up an incline. 5th gear is ok from around 65kmh. Boost comes in earlier. I am now getting 1lb of boost at around 2200rpm, and 5psi at 3000rpm. Previously, I was getting 3psi at 3000rpm. This is for 3rd gear. 1bar is now reached approx (very hard to guage exactly, as boost tends to hit hard by this stage, so I guaged it using my Power fc peak hold) 2-300rpm earlier. It was easier to guage what boost was doing at the lower pressures (safer:p) Another thing I have noticed, and I am not sure if this is related or not - it has me a bit confused - knock is actually down marginally???? before using roil, it would peak to around 36-38 regularly. I havent seen it go above 27 for a while now, but am unsure what this would be? This is driving on warmer days, and cooler days, thrashing and taking it easy. Anyone have any thoughts? My car is just so much nicer to drive - I am very happy with the results and would recommend anyone give this stuff a go, for both power and driveability. I definately will be using it again, thanks Jetpilot.

If you are making noise at slow speed cornering, I would suggest its not your springs. If springs are loose when the car is jacked up, they wont be when the car is lowered - as the car actually sits on the springs. Kei Office are also platform height adjustable (from memory?), so there is absolutely no reason why they should be loose in any way, as they can be set up for optimum shock travel even when lowered. Perhaps it may pay to check all the bolts in your front geometry, start with the coilovers if they were the last thing you played with.

Well, the original ones last for many years - and Nissan put the one that's in there, with a cv joint, for a reason. I am cannot understand why they would put a CV joint in a tail shaft for the hell of it, it would be cheaper and probably lighter to use one piece. Can this mechanic guy give you a guarantee that a one piece wont fark anything up - and do it in writing? I am always sceptical when a someone says they can do things better than the manufacturer, without having the R&D to support it.

I have been very busy of late. I have been going out in the hills from time to time, but big cruises scare me:p, too much attention:)