Steve

Have dont front and rear whiteline swaybars, both set to max, front camber arms, front castor rods, rear cradle bushes, and rear hardmount bushes. Still need hicas lock and rear camber arms and front tyres with more grip (understeering a bit still) But, the thing is Ihave been in other skylines that handle better than mine did, with less suspension mods but lower, and firmer springs.

The probe that goes into the cat is a temp probe that is designed to prevent you from overheating your cat. Once the the temperature indicates an overheating cat, the stock ecu will put the ecu in limp home mode - and allow it to cool - more environmental stuff that as you indicated, you dont really care about too much (bad tom:p) I had mine removed (high flow cat didnt have a hole for it) and just tucked into the chassis rail (there is a very handy hole in there) for about 8 months - with stock ecu and power fc fitted - and it made no difference to how the car ran (obviously, it only effects things when it gets too hot). Not really worth welding in place, as if for some reason you need to swap out, or remove your exhaust, you are turning a 5 minute job into a much larger one - pointless really, but each to their own. hope that makes sense.

Sounds like a reasonably large turbo, 'assuming' that those measurements are for the inducer and exducer, not the majors - similar to a GT30, so yes Have you got a compressor map? what car is it going on? what application? (ie, drag, street, circuit, drift?)

I thought HAs were height and damper adjustable?

Well then try top end perfromance in california, there is a link to them on the HKS USA site - I bought a HKS turbine housing off them, and it was cheaper than direct from Japan.

Because the ones I have on there are too soft. I have gone for a ride in a supra with 12kg front and 10 rear, and a S14 with the same, both lightened - They handle like go karts, which I would like. Having said that, I just lowered the car a bit more (340mm wheel centre to arch) and its a great improvement, as is fitting RE540s to the rear, as they have much stiffer sidewalls than the revspecs I had before - the extra grip is nice too - but still, the ride is too soft.

Long way to return a part:)

Bolt them up and see how they fit. The further + in the offset, the further the wheel track will be narrowed - so you will need to make sure there is no interferance with any of the suspension. I personally wouldnt want to narrow track - not really an improvement in any way that I can think of? If you want to bring wheels out, you need to go the other direction with the offset - this at least will give you wider track and therefore can make for good gains in handling - and the car looks fatter:)

I need some hard springs for my Ohlins. They seem to use stock shape springs, top of the spring definately, not sure about the bottom? but looks stock size (I have changed the fronts out, but havent got any springs for the rear yet) I have upgraded the fronts to 8kg, and they are heaps better, but I think I may need to go harder still, and some 6 or 8kg springs for he rears. So, if anyone has some that they need to get rid of, and can send me the coil size top and bottom and a photo, I may be interested in picking them up. Either that, or if someone wants to swap some ohlins height and damper adjustable with springs, firm ride, but not hard.....

If you buy from OS, just be aware that you are gambling. You may get it past customs and not pay duty, then GST (and they include the cost of post) - and you may not. If not, you may possibly find it was cheaper to source locally. Remember too, that if you buy from OS you dont get a warranty. I have bought some gear from OS, but I have bought a fair bit of gear locally, as when I compared the cost, the possible saving of a few dollars didnt outweigh the risk and the total cost I would have been up for if I bought OS. Whilst I have never been hit duty and GST, I know people who have and it ended up costing them more than buying locally. Best bet would be to see what it would cost locally, then compare the OS price and then figure in how much duty and gst you may have to pay - that way if you decide to import yourself, you wont be caught unawares. I can recommend D1 Garage as a good place to look locally, I have bought alot of gear off them, and found their prices as good as it gets here in Aust.

Oil pressure is effected by temperature. The change that I have noticed is that when my thermostat opens (usually only when driving hard or on really hot days) the oil pressure rises by around 1kg as the cooler oil is circulated, then it goes back to normal pressure after a couple of minutes. But otherwise, no difference.

cool, do you have photos? any chance you could pm me details incl how much they charge for pumping guards? cheers

Rob at D1 had his rears pumped and rolled on his supra, got it done by a panel beater (from memory) - he might be worth asking.

As posted on the other thread, JMS do it for $50 a corner.

JMS advertise $50 a corner with a jap rolling tool. I have been told that it actually pumps the guard at the same time to some degree. Havent actually seen the results though. Clint, did you check out JMS?

Where they join.

Make sure you do:)

Yes Matt (whatsisname) big burnouts, and rev limiter launches, you'll probably need them, and a new clutch:p

After having a read, I am guessing that it may be the boost cut setting, ie, 0.25kg above the set boost level? Probably another thing that can only be changed by excel software.

No probs Matt - just make sure you get that 11;)

I AM SO DAMMIT thanks heaps Martin, I owe you a beers!

Only when the time is right:)

Martin, if Matt dont want them, I'll take em:) Matt if you take them, sell me your RE540s:p

sorry dont know. Highly recommend you just find a good tuner and pay them whatever they want to do a good tune - if you get bargain prices, you get a 'bargain' tune - think about it, if someone asked you to do a tune, and it would cost you say $500 of your time, but they only wanted to pay $200, would you still do a full tune, or just a $200 dollar tune? I have found you get what you pay for, and the sweet taste of a cheap tune will wear off pretty quickly when the car isnt running the way you know it should. I had to learn the hard way:p

According to some sources, the stock intercooler can be responsible for up to 7psi drop at higher revs, so this means you are actually producing 20psi boost to see 13 at the plenum. I wouldnt do it. Keep the boost around 10psi with a stock cooler if you want the turbo to last. This is pretty much the safe limit for a R33, may be a bit different for a 32 though.