Steve

Yeah I remeber what it was like. Didnt seem too bad, but hard to say without driving it, and throwing it around to see what happens:p I can only recommend you do the usual stuff, soften the sus in the rear, hicas lock, diff, castor, camber, swaybars, etc etc:)

Maxx, where is provident? My bonnet needs a bit of a freshen up. Cheers

what is wrong with the current set up you have?

51jay, what are your thoughts/comments?

The only way I know of is to pull them out and have them tested. Martin might be a better one to ask?

Maxx, yeah, I want to try a few combos and see what I like best. A few guys that I know that track their cars have recommended 4 and 7 - so I thought I would start there. But having been in cars with 8 + 10, and 10+12, I tend to agree with you BUT they werent skylines. What are these worse outcomes you speak of? I hear what you are saying Martin, but no body has been able to get a decent idle, it would always idle ok for a while then do its own thing - the mesh works. I was also under the impression that power fc is supposed to 'self learn' the idle. That is what appears to have happened, the idle just got better and better every time I pulled up at a set of lights.

saw vendetta's car tonight, very nice tidy SII, I was tempted to distract him and 'borrow' his bonnet..... hehe j/k

this is what Bai advised, seems the japanese mechanics do know a thing or two:)

well it worked on Trent's car, and I found a strainer from the Warehouse with the same size mesh as my AFM, fitted it last night, and today, the idle sorted itself out. it has never idled so well.

sorry SMB315, I thought forced induction performance meant forced induction performance but rest assured - there is no way I will be replying to another of your posts.

See if you can get a leak down test done, if that shows up OK, get the compression test redone. A leak down test is easy, easier than a comp test, but you need the right equipment

well bolt that sucker on, fit some injectors and get a tune - thats the only way you are going to know for sure - a new exhaust housing is around $500AUD if you buy it from the US, a little more expensive from Japan, thats IF you need to downsize. I am pretty sure that HKS recommend the 0.73 with the RB20 kit - should be nuts anyway. please post up the results steve

well I cant here the detonation at 60, maybe my exhaust is too loud? I cant even here it when it has hit 110. R33NT, 10psi eh? perhaps that has something to do with it? also, were you running 98 ron? gets quite humid up there too? Vendetta, like I said before, you can borrow my hand controller. Take the car for a spin and see what it is doing - easy. If there are problems anywhere, I can pull some timing to make it safe, no probs.

roy, I doubt it will be quite that bad, I know a guy who was running 0.73 on SR20 and it hit 1 bar just on 4000rpm. but at the end of the day, I suppose it will be dependant on manifold, cams, and all the other supporting systems.

I have been advised that I need to do this to sort out the idle, which still hunts a little.

found out that Nismo use Motul 300 15W/50 synth - $75 for 4L from autobarn anybody running this? got recommended to use Omega 15W/55 - but that was by a japanese D1 driver and mechanic - and the stuff isnt available here, and aparently its bloody expensive even in Japan

I have, worked well, as I lived and worked by the ocean - got no rust at all while it was connected. I have since had to remove it, but I now live and work no where near the ocean so all is good. I think it cost around $600, I got it fitted by a car dealership in Perth. Pretty straight forward, it wouldnt be hard to diy.

Hi, Just wondering if anybody would have an old rooted afm, I need the mesh for mine - or if anybody knows where I can get some mesh of the same dimension wire etc as on the stock AFM???? cheers also, I need to upgrade my springs, as the ones I have just dont like it when I start pushing. I am chasing around 4kg (rear) and 7 kg (front) springs to try - see if they are ok or if I need to go harder still. I have ohlins coilovers, not 100% but I think they are 60mm ID? (I will measure tonight). I dont mind paying for them, but I dont want to fork out $400 for a set of springs to discover they are crap. If anyone has any of the above, or know where I can source them, PLEASE let me know:) thanks Steve

no probs

51jay, I think the ones the Japs make sit on the grill, rather than sit behind it. the theory is that it keeps the air coming in going through the radiator, and prevent it from being deflected over by the looks, the one you made came down the the bumper??? is that right?

sorry to be digging up your old school photos dean.

Spotted, Dean, aka one eyed jim:p the likeness is uncanny:D

no probs, anytime, pm me.

have you tried adjusting the bov?

you will need to upgrade your injectors, the stock ones dont go past around 230rwkw. I made around 256rwkw(430bhp approx) at 1 bar, and 285rwkw (470bhp approx) at 1.2bar with the 3037S 56T (on RB25 @ 7000rpm). where it makes boost will be dependant on your exhaust housing and how well the exhaust side flows, also the rest of your setup. to give you an idea, on RB25 I had around 1 bar at 3000rpm with 0.61 A/R ratio turbine - it was very switch like, ie boost was on or off, and at 1.2bar it was unstreetable, even in 4th gear with light throttle the back end would swing across lanes:( I went to 0.87 turbine housing, it became very laggy, until I upgrade to a 90mm exhaust (had a restrictive, ie quietish, 80mm exhaust) - and now it is alot better to control with throttle, rather than being on/off - now I am making 1.2bar at just under 4000rpm. I dont know what size housing you have, but would think a smaller one would be the go, perhaps a 0.73 - wind the rev limit to 8000rpm and enjoy. If you already have the turbo, I would suggest you fit it, then if things arent quite right, go from there, ie different turbine housings/exhaust system etc. Just make sure you sort those injectors out ASAP. Stock RB bottom ends are quite strong, as long as you have the right support systems (fuel) and make sure your car is tuned well. I just spoke to a Japanese mechanic (works for Signal) - he seems to think the best way to tune is with 11:1 AF ratios max, and wind in timing to get good power and responsiveness. I told him I was making 285rwkw at 1.2bar, he seemed to think this was a bit low, that my car would be much quicker if I tuned it with 11:1. He thought my timing was a bit conservative but the fuel was too lean (currently it uses 11.6:1 at peak torque and 12:1 thereafter) - he was concerned enough to ring japan and get a mate of his to check some maps they had, so he could make some rough adjustments to keep it safe until I got it on a dyno! sorry, starting to waffle on a bit. the guts of the matter is, as recomended to me by a mechanic that works for a japanese performance shop, tune AF ratios no more than 11:1, use the timing to bring up repsonsiveness/power. Keep the boost to 1.2bar, and totally stock is ok to thrash all day, everyday no problems.(he is also a d1 driver, so he has a good idea of what thrashing is:)) anyways, hope that helps a bit, steve