Steve

Joel, I actually run around 1.6bar, it has spiked to 1.9bar though. and what is this YET stuff? everyone seems to think my car will blow up - except the Jap guys that I looked to for guidance, they seem to think it will be no probs. Standard RB bottom end is good for 600bhp according to them, with everything else sorted, and I reckon they should know:p

hey Matt, if you arent worried about lag, chuck the to4r on the s14:)

yes it was me. they are custom made for nissan.

and under the curve? still no good?

HKS 2530, trust T518Z, apexi AX53B70 - depends on what you call too laggy or nice power. Responsive, spool quickly and good for from 230-250rwkw, depending on mods and a large mid range increase. HKS2835, probably good for around 270odd rwkw (depending on mods), little more laggy than stock, but not hugely so, also good mid range A couple of ideas anyways:).

winging, WTF is winging - you uni educated blokes keep finding new words:p but you are right, might just get involved with club PSI, or someone that organises track days and shit - plenty around, why have a dedicated skyline club anyway....

sorry Niz, cant help. The RB25 turbo sits with the wastegate and turbine outlet in a vertical arrangement - I was under the impressoin that stock RB20 was the same, but never looked that closely at one. For your info, the RB20 and RB25 are not T3 turbos, just have a T3 flange where they joint the manifold. good luck

I think you may find that a VL turbo will be a tad laggy on an RB20 (not 100%), but it is designed for an engine 50% larger than the one you have, and the 3L has mountains more torque too. Wouldnt it be easier to get a Rb25 turbo, or RB20 turbo and use that instead? or can you change the turbine housing? Not too familiar with the T3, but I know the wastegate setup you talk of, and it is pretty ordinary - definately no rocket science there.

we need a proper skylines club:(

sorry dont have any photos of the current setup, but may be able to borrow a digi camera on the weekend. the HKS 1.6, according to HKS drops CR to 8.6:1. I also had the head skimmed before it was replaced, but I doubt it would have made much difference.

buy a decent cooler, if you fark around trying to save a few bucks, it will only cost you in either performance or dollars when you fit it, realise it is crap and fit another one. unless you drive a truck, dont waste your time and money. Get a decent jap brand or hybrid, second hand GTR etc, something that is a known good thing, and is desigened to work with your application. 0.02

Mgec?

yep thats it. The boost builds very quickly once it hits around 12psi, after that it comes on very hard, but you can control it with the right foot.

Well all it does is allow oil vapours into the cylinders, its there to stop all the dolphins from going tits up, and the trees turning brown. If you fit a baffled catch can, you can remove all the crap from the crank case gasses before they do any harm to your engine or the dolphins. 3037 with 0.61 was just too savage, 1 bar at around 3000rpm, but it wasnt possible to safely drive the car with any more boost. It came on like a switch, even at 90-100kmh the back end would try and change lanes with light throttle, such as gentle accelleration. 0.87 is sooo much better, still has heaps down low, boost starts building under 3000rpm, with 1 bar around 3700ish rpm - but you can control the boost with the throttle, its not just on or off.

trust plenum bolts directly to the head and if new comes with bolts and clamps, hoses needed to fit everything to it (no gasket though) - you will need to mod the water line for your turbo though. the runners on the trust plenum are larger in diameter and shorter than the stock runners. You can get an adaptor for the stock TB additional to the plenum, or source a Q45 TB (larger than XF) which will bolt straight up (TPS is compatible, being a nissan). I dont think the Japs are big on ford XF throttle bodies, so if you wanted to fit it, you may have to get a custom adaptor made.

have they been tested at all? any details? flow tested?

Do you have the resistor pack too?

what is the min boost of the actuators?

do you have the resistor packs with these?

special order? or a regrind?

Benm, try a reset on your computer. I used to have this same problem all the time. Driving to and from work in traffic, and every couple of weeks the top end would start to die - resetting the ecu and taking it out for a good thrash did the trick every time.

BigDatto, I had the 0.61, but that was on the 3037, so the exhaust wheel would be a bit larger. It should come on boost pretty hard - too much so with the 3037, but should be great with a 2535. I didnt really try and see how far I could push the 0.61, it was tuned to 256 at 1 bar, and at 1.2bar it was unstreetable due to how hard the boost hit. With the 0.87 housing that I have now, it made 270 at 1.1 bar and 285 at 1.2 bar. It will be interesting to find out how it goes, I just hope when you fit it you dont expose other problems, such as I did. Became very frustrating, but it was very worth while now that its sorted.

Dean, just noticed fuel pumps on special at GCG, 500hp intank new $250 suit nissan - seriously get it in there before you do anymore tuning.

Enrico, Joel, go pm. Weekends are best for me.