Steve

where can you get it in adelaide Hippy? Also, does it weigh much?

Well, as test on the road can be a good thing. Stuff like making sure the clutch takes up nice and smooth. I have a twin plate unsprung clutch, and adding a bit of fuel in just the right place makes a world of difference to the take up. Generally most of it can be done on a dyno by an experienced tuner. To get someone to do a full road tune (I did it once, took 2 days) is a very costly exercise, and debatable whether it is worth the extra. The biggest difference IMHO is getting an experienced tuner, who takes the time needed to do the job right instead of rushing to try and make a quick buck.

SK, what do you consider the optimum spring rate for an R33. It is a daily driver, but I like to punt it hard when the opportunity presents itself. I have had some pretty bad understeer of late. I have upgraded from castor bushes to castor rods, which helps. I have also upgraded my diff to a 2 way mechanical and have front and rear camber arms on the way, but I cant help but feel my springs are too soft. I am using ohlins shocks, and have them adjusted nicely (now, but earlier:)). Any advice would be good, as I feel the springs are really letting me down, the car just doesnt feel as tight as it should when pushed hard. EDIT: also, could you suggest an optimum ride height?

Well I can tell you what I like to see. First, change your plugs, even if they are only a few thousand kays old. If the car is out of tune, it is possible they are covered in carbosn and crap. Cost less than $20 a set. Make sure you have the right plugs before you take the car in. Idle and cold start - if there are any issues you cannot sort yourself, let them know. If it is cold start,they may need the car overnight, so they can see what is happening when the car is cold. Light throttle. Seems pretty obvious, but is often overlooked. It doesnt take a heap of time to check the AF ratios at 60, 80, 100, 120 kmh. This can save you a fortune in fuel, as the car can be tuned pretty close to stoich. Next start tuning power. Usually they will do a prelimnary power run and check AF ratios and timing. Usually, tuning starts at lower boost, then increases as everything is checked safe at that level. Finally, it is worth while getting the tuner to do a final run at lower boost, after the high boost has been sorted, just to check that everything is still ok down low. Perhaps some people like to do it different, but I have found that there arent alot of places that do their tuning as above, esp the part throttle/cruise work. Spending a little more time on the dyno to make sure everything is set up right can make a hell of a difference to how the car handles on the road. It is always a good idea to let the dyno operator know you are just after a safe tune, which will ensure they dont push too hard, or tune right on the edge. Tuning too close to the edge can cause problems when you get a poor batch of fuel, change in weather, fouled plugs etc. so IMHO isnt realy worth the worry. Remeber too, that dynos are a good way to make sure your car is running well, and a guide to guage what difference mods have made to power delivery. If you are after big numbers, just buy a 454 and throw a couple of T88s on it:p

Dean, I think I can cover the snags, but if you want to make a beer donation..... but seriously, if you are happy with a couple of snags, all is good, otherwise, just bring whatever you want.

I have enough trouble getting a leave pass for a dyno day from the minister for war and finance, plus, I dont have a bbq But if I was single and owned a barbie....

Nice on T-man, go throwing gates on your bosses foot so you got a reason not to go to the dyno day, you could have just told me to shove it up my blurter you know:) Shame you can't make it, would have been good to catch up again.

gobiz, not bad prices, alot cheaper than here in oz. Just remeber you cant fit the z32 afm until you hook up the e-manage, as the afm is not compatible with the stock management.

Maybe, hard to say until the final tune is done. Can you check the AFM voltage when you do the unichip? It would be worth getting them to tune it and do a run at lower boost (without changing the tune) and see what happens to the AF ratios. If she starts running rich you may have your answer. Have you done your fuel pump yet dean?

gobiz, AFAIK there is only one Z32 AFM, 80mm (same as RB25) but has an orange sticker on it. If you are getting it from a wrecker, try and get the plug too, as they are different from a RB25. If you dont have the $$, its not a huge thing at this sort of power level. Just tune the car up with stock AFM at around 0.85 bar you should have no problems with reliability at that sort of boost, and can drive around all day every day at the same boost. Alot more important you upgrade the fuel pump - think of it as insurance.

INASNT, he is fitting e-manage. gobiz, the boost pressure isnt the problem, its the airflow, as the AFM measures how much air is being sucked in. I know sydneykid hasnt had a problem at 200kw with the stock AFM, but mine hit 5.1V (max) at around 4500rpm with only 189rwkw. I know I am not the only one this has happened to. As mentioned, it wont make a big difference if you are tuning to one boost pressure, but if you want to tune to 1 bar, and be able to turn the boost down, the ECU may not see the change in airflow, thus overfueling. If you are after a GTR pump, can I suggest a post in the Wanted to buy section, or try contacting www.d1garage.com or www.japanesemotorsport.com.au as they get these in quite often.

200 is not a huge ask. I had it with just power fc, fmic, full exhaust (but be aware, a not all 3" exhausts are equal), pod with partition and CAI and boost. This was at 0.85 bar, which I ran all day every day without a problem. At 1 bar, I think you would be closer to 210 or so, which is also realistically obtainable with stock turbo. It will be very worthwhile to upgrade your fuel pump too, as a bit of insurance against detonation. Your afm may be out of resolution here too. Not a major problem if you will be running only one boost pressure for top end, but it can offer gains by upgrading. If you plan on upgrading your AFM, it is worth doing it before you fit the e-manage, it will save you a few dollars in tuning costs. But definately get your fuel pump upgraded before you start more serious tuning.

Strip the car back to the chassis. store all the bits at a mates house. let them have their $5900 car.

anyone know what is up with these little grey or black squares under the location?

I was in M113s, a gentleman of the cavalry:) pop quiz, how can you tell the cav soldier at a brawl - hes the one holding the pizza:p hey, someone's gotta do it.

Dont knock the gemi, its got tweed seat covers!

Arrow diffs do a nice split dump in stainless. If you can get a HKS one second hand for $300, its pretty good value if its in good nick. Second hand is fine if the condition is ok, and can save you a heap of money.

Eating out of tin cans for weeks, cant forget that one, then there is the joy of wearing one set of clothes for a few weeks or more. Washing with a damp cloth and if you do get sleep, being woken half way through for an hour or two to make sure the bad guys dont get you, or some dill treading on you cos he isnt looking where he is walking, being eaten by insects, hmm water proof toilet paper, having to burst blisters and fill them with iodine, I could go on for ever:) all good fun, thank god I was in armoured though, at least we got to drive most places. Yeah, you RAAFies do it tough, I bet they even made you stay in 4 star accomodation when you were in Hawaii once eh Matt? or was that the UK? :D definately the only way to go.

I can bring some sausages, bread and sauce. If anyone wants anything else, byo:)

lol@ snake, spoken like someone who has never experienced the joy of having to cross icy cold streams full of leaches, then having to hump miles with wet socks and clothes, hmmm, just how much fun can you have:)

Dont know what Hiep is talking about:p:D Dean, it will make more than 90, he's got my old dump pipe:)

Next weekend Hiep

I might be able to help a bit, even if I only have an rb25 I started out fitting an N1 system, 80mm. Flowed very well, straight through design with minimal bends. Made good power but was LOUD as hell - headache material. I sound deadened the boot, not so bad inside the car I next got an 80mm Nismo cat back. Also 90mm with a big center resonator. It had more bends than the N1, it killed power and ended up choking the top end above around 290rwkw - it also gave me around 1000rpm more lag and made the car more doughy. But it was quiet. I tried a 90mm N1 with small resonator on the back - I am sure it actually amplified the exhaust note - it was incredibly bloody loud, so it got take off before I even took it for a test drive. Lastly I fitted a HKS super dragger, which is 90mm, has less bends than the Nismo exhaust, but not as straight through as the N1. It has a nice burble at idle, sounds angry as hell when you nail it, but is still quiet enough that its not annoying to drive around in, and if you want to just limp around when there are plods nearby, it doesnt attract too much attention. Bottom line is, you need to compromise. The quieter an exhaust is, the more back pressure, the less power, more lag, doughier off boost. I dont think there is any harm in going larger rather than smaller, the HKS exhaust still has a few bends (more than the N1) but the 90mm pipe seems to make up somewhat for the bends. Just make sure you have a nice resonator on the back to give it a nice note.

Still ploding along I havent given up yet. I keep discovering new interesting things every week. If you want to keep track of what they say please do. And dont be scared to ask as many questions as you can about getting cars modded, as inconsistancy between different people is one of the major problems with the joint IMHO. Thanks for your support Steve

My BOV doesnt lift until around 10-12lbs. My turbo spins forever when the car shuts down too. PCV is very easy to block, just whack a self tapper in it. If you want to check it, just pull it out and blow through it, if air only passes one way, all is good. Quite often just pulling it out of the rocker cover and holding your finger over it whilst the car is idling will reveal if it is the problem, but either way, block it off - it is not your friend:)