Steve

Hmm, well I dont know about any websites. Have you tried a search engine, like google? I can try and help a bit here if you like, as I know the frustration at typing common words. Turbo timers - delays the engine switching off after you turn off the ignition. This is to allow the turbo to cool down. If it doesnt cool properly, the heat in the turbo can cook the oil in it, this is sometimes reffered to as 'coking'. the oil being coked on the inside of the turbo catridge can cause it to seize, thus the turbo will cease to work and need rebuilding. the cartridge is where the bearings are between the compressor (inlet side) and turbine (exhaust side), and has a shaft through it mounted on bearings that allows the turbo to spin Two main types of turbo timer, manual, where you set how long the car should idle for, or automatic, where the timer calculates how long to keep the engine running. Usually an auto timer will allow manual operation as well if desired. BOV - when a turbo is making boost (positive pressure, so the air is compressed) and you take your foot off the throttle, the compressed air cannot move into the plenum (the plenum is after the throttle body, and distributes the air via 'runners' to the cylinders). A BOV will allow that air to be returned infront of the turbo or to atmosphere. Without a BOV, the compressed air will revert back through the compressor, causing it to slow very quickly. This can cause alot of stress on the turbo, as they can spin at well over 100,000rpm. Another down side is that it takes time for a turbo to spool up again after being slowed, so it may induce what is called lag, where the exhaust gasses will take a moment to bring the turbo back up to speed. Older cars didnt have BOVs, but nowadays all turbo cars (that I know of) in production have them for longevity, and for the sake of reducing lag. FMIC - front mount intercoolers allow better cooling of the charge air (the air out of the turbo). It is like a big radiator to cool the air before it goes into the engine. Most stock intercoolers are very poor in design, and will not remove much heat from the charge air. You need to understand that when air is compressed it heats up. this is done firstly at the turbo, secondly when the piston compresses the air fuel mix as it moves upwards - two lots of heating compared to a NA engine only heating the air once. Two big benefits from cooling the charge air. - Firstly, the warmer the air, the more prone it is to detonation. Detonation is the spontaneous ignition of the fuel air mix in the cylinder, before the flame front started by the spark plug sparking. Fuel and air, when mixed, if heated enough will spontaneously combust - it is a violent explosion, compared to a controlled burn caused by the spark plug - it has the potential to smash pistons and hammer bearings). It is absolutely of the highest importance to prevent detonation. It is also called pinging or knocking. - Secondly, the cooler the air, the denser it is, the more Oxygen, which means the fuel can burn better. this produces more power - just like when you drive your car on a cool morning compared with a hot afternoon. Possible downsides to an intercooler is that if it is too big for the application, it may increase the time taken to build boost pressure, as the larger the area that the compressed air must fill, the longer it takes to fill. Just about any intercooler is going to be better than the stock ones on a GTSt, the GTRs however get very good intercoolers for applications up to around 300kw. A poorly designed intercooler can be a waste of money too, as alot of science goes into designing a cooler to cool well whilst not causing a large pressure drop at higher boost levels - pressure drops can be caused by poor flow characteristics, such as the stock GTSt cooler:) well theres some beginnings, I am sure you will only have more questions now, so fire away:) and welcome to the world of turbo cars and SAU

Oh, and check every rubber/silicone hose to make sure it is in excellent condition. If it is slightly worn looking, replace it.

the biggest one I found was the PCV valve. I blocked that off. I also went over every vacuum line and ensured that they were all very tightly secured with either cable ties or clamps, at both ends - check thoroughly as there are many, many hoses. Then check all your cooler pipes. If none of that works, get some CRC and spray it at all joins on the intake side, including where the plenum joins the head, throttle body to plenum etc. If you find a leak the engine revs will increase quite dramatically. vacuum leaks are the most painful little buggers to find, good luck:)

do be careful if you are mounting it on the A pillar. Alot of people mount their guages there, but I find that when you are punting hard at night, the guage sort of gives you a slight blind spot if it is mounted wrong - makes life a bit difficult for tight right hand corners. Not sure about sydney, but in SA it is also illegal to mount guages on the A pillar. I have been told this is because it 'may' increase the chance of head injury in a collision (right, like you are going to be more concerned about the pillar guage than your head hitting the a pillar or windscreen a poofteenth of a second later????). the best place I have seen is inside the instrument cluster. You can use double sided tape to secure it infront of the stock boost guage, and run the wires behind the steering column - under the instrument cluster, so no holes needed anywhere. The other thing to consider is that when you are boosting, it is unlikely that you will be watching the boost guage anyway - at least I dont, things happen too quickly at full boost to be paying too much attention to anything but the road:)

ASE sell kits in alli or stainless for these - if you want the cheaper option, drop Clint32 a pm as he can make up custom pipework, and fit at the best rates in SA

Yes I am using z32 afm, the only idle probs I have had is when I have had vacuum leaks:)

Joel, he doesnt use forged internals on the basic package, but can fit them too at added cost of course. He has run one of his basic RB30DET packages in his drag car, and with a 50? shot of nos, pulled 10s in an R32 GTS4 If you do a search for RIPS a thread he started a while back about running 10s will show up and give links to dynos and more info. He doesnt have a website that I know of, but he does have an e-mail address. His engine packages dont include the turbo, but from memory they include plenum and stock manifold which is what he is using (as mentioned) in his R32. RB30DET good for drag racing? very much so.

wreckhead, how did you adjust your wastegate. I am sure that the power fluctuating is the wastegate. I had just changed to a spring 3lbs heavier, and had to adjust my duty cycle to stop it spiking. The power fc boost control takes a few goes to 'learn' its boost control accurately. I have found in the past that they will spike a bit at first, but settle down after a few runs.

Power FC

if you rebuild, you will have essentially a new engine. the other way of going is get RIPS to send you one of his RB30DET packages. will bold up and for 3.5k(AUD) delivered, is a pretty good way to go, then you can sell your old motor. Several guys in NZ have these, and I have heard only good things from those on here that have used/are using his engines. Alot more torque than an RB26, and probably cheaper than a rebuilt RB25 unless you do the work yourself

v nice, is the rocker cover chromed or just well polished? nice package

The pipe from the plenum to cooler was upgraded 2.5" to 3", boost control seems fine, and yes solenoid is the same as AVCR AFAIK Anybody who hasnt guessed yet, whatsisnames dyno is the blue line that is overlayed on my pre/post exhaust comparison dyno. Very fat there Matt, it will be interesting to see how the cars go side by side on the dyno day, as during your run (on my dyno), it was alot hotter than when I ran mine:) RS500, cheers, the housing cost around $500, from the US, cheaper than from Japan and I have sold the 0.61 already sorry.

Are you for real?

dont see why not

Go the ecu, that way you can just get the power fc solenoid and you have boost control for half the price of an AVCR (you only need the solenoid) later down the track. ECU will give you very good power improvements, knock warning and readouts of alot of different functions such as temp, inj duty etc. A boost controller will only give you a couple of pounds more boost before the turbo gets into the danger zone - this is simple to achieve with a bleed valve in the mean while (before you get a solenoid), as they are pretty cheap.

Some other costs to consider, dump pipe, pipe from intake to turbo, turbo to cooler. Oil and water lines, hmm, 100 seems a bit lean, perhaps 200 would be closer maybe more If this turbo is rated 300 to 400bhp, it wouldnt be much of an improvement over stock, alot of money for potentially little return. If you are getting anywhere over 200rwkw, other things you need to consider is a fuel pump and AFM upgrade, possibly clutch too if you havent already done them.

Your fuel consumption sounds like it hasnt been mapped at low load and cruise throttle. I had a similar problem to you, I had AFRs in the low 11s for cruise (60 - 120kph) and better economy on boost where it was in the 12s - get the car on a dyno to check for sure. Base timing for S1 R33 is 15deg

Just some things to consider, this is going on what others have posted here. for starters, I believe the clutch will need upgrading, for heavy launches with the sort of power you are talking about twin plate may not quite be up to the task I am not sure the R33 pump will be up to the fuel task. Also, the RB25 gearbox is, AFAIK the same internally as the GTR box, so may not last - 3rd gear appears to the the problem That cooler might be a bit small? Didnt see a diff on your shopping list either? RIPS has an R32 GTS-4 that does 10s on street tyres (if you can call them that:)) and the engine is putting down 440 odd kw, but from a 3L with RB head, so tons of torque. Leewah has pulled 10s in his GTR, and it put down 495rwkw Also, there are a couple of threads on here that discuss 10 sec cars, it may pay to do a search, as there is some good info on them.

Not too interested, might do it one day just for shits and giggles though - then be disappointed when I discover what a useless driver I am:) You dont have a spare set of slicks do you Joel?

very nice, and is that twin fuel rail, and 12 injectors you are running? now you gotta make sure it doesnt get scratched on the way in:)

here is a copy of the current dyno with the previous (before exhaust and pipe from cooler to plenum were changed) a very worthwhile gain considering cost was minimal. If only all power upgrades were as cheap:) sorry the dyno is so messy, I wrote the previous dyno in by pencil

yep, go the whales:)

INASNT, I think you have to remeber that the more exhaust gas you run through the turbo, the less the wastegate needs to do. top secret use 2 3037 pro S turbos to produce 700rwkw on an RB26 (or 27, 28?) cant remeber which, but the thing is, they do it with internal gated turbos grepin has 280odd rwkw with an internal gated hks turbo, an only runs 1.3bar, but can turn the boost down further. Its worth considering too, that if you can save 500rpm lag, you may pick up alot of RWKW. With my turbo, changing the exhaust brought boost on around 500-800rpm earlier, but I picked up an extra 60rwkw in power as a result - as it was coming onto boost, and around 12 or so up top. I will have to dig up a comparison to post up, I found it interesting anyway. In total I picked up an extra 32 rwkw average from 100kph to around 160 kph (in 4th gear)- well worth having, when you consider how much those few extra kw cost once you start stretching the limits of the stock turbo,injectors etc. So if you pay an extra $500-$1000 dollars for a turbo that comes on boost 500rpm earlier, perhaps it is worhtwhile - I think so Its a case of horses for courses I suppose, as long as everyone is happy with what they got, then they did it right, no?

Power FC boost control

thanks for the kind words everybody. Simonster, dont worry, its well worth the wait, my turbo sat in a cupboard since feb last year, just getting where I want now geraldjohn, sorry, I dont have a digi camera at the moment Inasnt, I am pretty sure the head gasket is helping, a nice tune doesnt hurt either sydneykid, its using a HKS 40mm standard wastegate with a 10psi spring. I would have gone a 1bar spring, but a guy picked one up in japan, and it was the heaviest available at the time. The spring that came out was 7lb. Might have to see if I can get a spring made to fit unfortuneately. The runs didnt stop until 7000rpm. I think the diff may be slightly different to stock ratio, as when it went in (nismo 2way) there was a noticeable increase in torque off boost, purely seat of the pants though - can't think of any other way to explain the difference. I will have to check it out. I am not sure of the humidity, temp was around 30deg at 1130am (in the dyno booth), the runs above were done around 1pm. the boost controller seems to be fine - no noticable problems on the dyno. Spiked to 1.89bar in 3rd on the road, so I dropped the duty cycle (alot) and seems fine now. I think the top end of the curve will smooth out once it finishes learning how to hold the boost - I could be wrong, but it doenst have a noticeable effect. Exhaust is 3" stainless ceramic coated and heat wrapped dump, wastegate integrates just before the bend where the dump angles toward the back of the car, so almost at the cat. From there it is a 90mm HKS super dragger. fuel was just straight pump BP98 Not much more on the list engine wise, but I am still going to get rear camber arms, hicas lock kit, and R rated rubber, and I will try and get a 1bar spring. Things I would have done differently, thats a bit hard. I think I would have used a different manifold, 3/2/1 design rather than tuned lenght - but that is one I will never know 100% for sure whether or not it will make much difference, as I am not about to go to all the added expense of buying the manifold and getting all the pipework remade, as I am very happy with the result I have now. Other than that, maybe a light port/polish and match the manifold and plenum, thats about it really. dont worry about the car not being driven, its my daily driver. JimX, its actually quite good bottom end. Not much worse than stock turbo when I was putting down 200rwkw. this turbo still makes a few lbs boost at low (under 3000rpm) engine speeds with light throttle, the car feels like it wants to go all the time - not doughy at all bottom end.