Steve

If you are after GT35R, it may be worth checking what Per4manz turbocharging in WA have on offer, I got quoted around $2400 for one. They have done some RandD and appear to have a very good combo. I think their website is www.per4manz.com or something like that

no probs, 0.7 seems a bit big for a 400hp turbo though?

Good stuff - T-man, can you do the bbq thing again????? (shame your car wont be ready:() I am sure I can organise some snags and bread and stuff.

********** PLEASE NOTE*********** An overview of results is on page 8 Well as alluded to in whatsisname's epic engine build thread - I think its about time for an SAU dyno day This will be a great opportunity to compare cars with different mods to each other on the same dyno, hopefully we can attract enough people to have a broad spread from no mods to Joel and Bl4cK32's crazy RB30 beasts:) To enable grepin to be included we need to have it at the latest on Sat 6 Mar. I have spoken to Shaun at Boostworks, and he said he would be happy to host it, and cost would probably be around 20-25 for a couple of pulls, beginning in mid/late morning. Perhaps we can even convince T-man to do the sausage thing again, and have a bbq at the same time;) So lets here your comments, and who would like to come and who can come: DATE: Sat 6th Mar WHERE: Boostworx, Boothby St, Panorama WHEN: mid morning (not too early:)) COST: $20-25 Attending (list will be updated as replies are recieved) Me Whatsisname Grepin (TBC) Freebaggin P1E T-man (with naked R31 club ladies) Nightcrawler Enrico Cheeky VIPERGTSR01 (TBC) MattR Hippy (with entourage) Bl4cK32 Chris32 slyr33 ecenshu (TBC) r32gts-4 doglet Shrub32 Bleck Miss Nismo (TBC) Pawley (TBC) Busky 2K Joel (cos he's a mod, so he's got to be there) Hope you ALL can make it, whether you have a skyline, like skylines, think you can put a skyline to shame, or just want to see what mums excel really can do with the new rear wing:D Steve Finalised date 6 Mar at 1100

yes, refer to my first post:) the solenoid bleeds air through the NC, or the NO, depending on which way you have it set up. If you have one plumbed to the gate, and the other shut, all the boost pressure will go to the gate. This is how they work, by pulsing a differing amount of boost pressure to the wastegate, firstly a small amount so that boost builds quickly then once the desired boost has been reached, it will bleed more air so the wastegate stays open the desired amount

didnt even see the AR size on the ray hall site, just saw the map and realised the e-bay site was completely full of shit:) where does it specify AR?

its all good - I am being somewhat hypothetical, perhaps I should just do the big handball back to sydneykid and ask him to explain why??? SK?? (BTW B-Man, where are your dyno results?????)

cooler air is more dense, the hotwire senses the amount of air that passes it - if the air is denser, wouldnt it result in more air passing the sensor for the same given velocity? This probably wouldnt be a huge amount, but cooler air would take more heat out of a hotwire sensor, thereby showing greater flow.

Oh, if you have a look at page 1 (I think) of the instructions, it says to remove ALL the plastic bungs from the solenoid:) EDIT: also, beware if you have left a plug in, and then remove it, as your boost will run alot higher than you currently have it set, so be ready to adjust down a bit.

So you have the hole (NC) still bunged? NO and COM plumbed to the boost line/wastegate if so that is your problem, I couldnt remeber whether its NC or NO, but this is exactly the problem my mate had.

Just went down there, they didnt seem to have much out, just a couple of front cuts and a few OEM parts/engines. They did have a few sets of shocks and springs for R32 and S13, but that was about all the aftermarket parts.

did you remove the plastic bung from the NO outlet on the solenoid? I ask cos i know a guy who did the same thing and had a similar problem. The EBC should hold boost very well, have you checked all your settings are correct - there are a few on the Profec BII. If it is bringing boost up, strongly, I would be surprised if it is a boost leak.

I just fitted a 2 way diff, vs the stock viscous item. Its an excellent upgrade, and really highlights the deficiencies with the stock unit, but something strange seems to have happened. Initially the torque down low appeared to have increased noticeabley, which surprised me, but I put down to perhaps being a 4.3:1 diff (I bought it second hand off someone who didnt know much about it) BUT, now my car is now starting to register knock ALOT higher than before. Previously I was getting knock reading between 15-30 when on the foot and under high load (up hills). All was good. Now, after just fitting the diff, my knock has gone up to 70 - thank god for the check engine light. I pulled 2 degrees timing and it still went up around 40 on the knock sensor, I pulled 3 deg total and it sorted the problem but of course the car is a bit more sluggish. Also, for some reason, I cant boost past 1.3bar???? My thoughts are that the characterists of the new diff (the fact that it gets alot more power down than the stock one, perhaps a different ratio) are such that load on the engine has changed enough to throw the tune compeletely out? Does anybody have any ideas on what might be the problem? I do intend on getting a retune very soon, but would like to know if it could be the diff, or if I have a problem elsewhere? Cheers Steve

not really relevant, the air density varies before it hits the AFM, warmer air will have molecules further spaced apart. If you compress 50 litres of air (at sea level, so 1 bar absolute pressure) with an ambient temperature of say 40degrees celcius to 1.5bar, it will have less mass than 50 litres of air (at sea level...) at 15degrees compressed to 1.5bar - What SK is saying (if I am right) is that a map sensor will only see the 1.5 bar, and therefore wouldnt be able to discriminate between the differing air densities, and this is why they use air temp correction in alot of cases.

around 400bhp with upgraded fuel pump and fuel pressure reg.

No I wouldnt recommend this. Sometimes people get good results, sometimes not. If you dont mind gambling, and you feel lucky go for it. If you dont mind spending a little more (and tey arent that expensive at the moment, even new) and want the peace of mind knowing that you have a reliable know good product - with better resale value, buy proper aftermarket injectors. my 0.02

it uses a hot wire, that measure a change in the flow of an electrical current as air passes it. Denser (cooler) air will have a greater effect than thinner (hotter) air, at a guess:) having said that, its interesting that my detonation is actually lower during hot days than cold ones, I am thinking the the car is running a bit richer - but this may alos be because of the afm being beyond its peak flow voltage, and the ecu cannot tell the difference. B-man, want to sell your bodgey Power fc frying Q45 AFM? pm me if interested

here is a link to the ray hall turbo site, which has a compressor map for the to4e 57T compressor, as you will see, it just isnt capable of producing 500bhp, let alone whp, more like 350-400bhp before it is well out of its efficiency range or running high boost. http://www.turbofast.com.au/FlowTO4E.html

I hope its ok too. I have done a few jump starts with mine including one guy who decided to try and start his car just as I connected - before I could raise the revs for a while to get the charge up - no probs yet.

I am not sure which model he had, but Jash (SAU nick) who is the owner of C-Red in WA, did own a Stagea, might be worth dropping him a pm as I dont believe he gets on the performance forums much, either that or post up in WA section as well??

well I have mine close to the BOV (I have a trust type R). I am not 100% where it would be useful. I plumbed it up after I started running 1.7 bar. I havent re-adjusted my spring tension, but it now lifts off at around 0.4bar, whereas before, it didnt lift until around 1 bar.

Just tie the R32 to a tree, and see what happens in all 4 gears:) but make sure you have a video tape handy - and of course, do it on a private road;) sorry getting off track:)

sounds like one hell of a physical challenge, but why drop the boost and timing? just push it to the limits, purely for scientific reasons, after all, you will have a 3L in there soon:D

so whens it all happening? too much suspense on this forum:)

havent been on the Jacks again have you SK??