Steve

sweet, cant wait to see both your beasts up and prowling the streets, where can I book in for a ride?:D Good things are worth waiting for, just be careful as fits of laughter and huge shit eating grins when you are driving make you look like you have been up to something:p

had mine well over 6 months, and all is good touch wood. Mine came in a box new.

ASE do kits for R33 with fmic in alli or stainless, perhaps get a kit from them and have a go yourself? Save a few $$

time for a revival of the wasteland:0 check out this link:http://www.avalanchetankers.us/archives/000058.html ROFLMAO

Just for those who think a 3" exhaust is a 3"exhaust, I know a guy who owns an R32 GTR, had a cat back locally made (jap one died) and it just felt lifeless and doughy by comparison. the locally made 3" exhaust was removed (they used local flanges when it was made). the dump looked ok, so it was cut at the right length and a jap system fitted from there back. result, car was back to its old self again. they may look the same, but it doesnt mean they are the same. before any of you that have had local made systems fitted gets upset with me, I am not saying YOUR system is bad, just sharing an experience with someone who wants to ask the question.

yep, fine

this thread is outta control, I agree with CWest, if you spend too much time trying to analyse life, and work out whats going on - well your missing out, just live every day like its your last and all will be good, I am sure if you analysed anybody enough with the right focus, you could make them out to be either a saint or a sinner:p And as for your line pulling chicks, well if that happens, good luck - everybody has different methods of pulling members of the opposite sex (or same sex if you are that way inclined) As for yin/yang, the very nature of it means that eventually all shall be in balance all on its own, without anybody worring about it - try reading the tao te ching - if you can understand much of it, eventually you may realise it all (life) means nothing except what you make of it. bugger, now I am getting deep

should be ok. As a rough rule of thumb, on 6 cyl engines, injector cc approx equals bhp that can be supported. Microtech should allow you to run either high or low impedance injectors, S15 injectors would be a straight swap though, and will fit into your fuel rail perfectly. fuel pump, something like a bosch 910 or 040, I think they are available for under $300.

Just found a link to different injector sizes: http://www.ap-engineering.co.jp/el/inj_side.htm S14 injectors 370cc, same as RB25det, s15 are 480cc according to the above

not enough info, what are you chasing power wise, this will ultimately be the deciding factor on what sort of fuel pump and what size injectors are needed. Also, what sort of management do you have, as some management will run high or low impedance injectors. RB25DET has side feed high impedance injectors, 370cc.

perfect turbo eh? well, you really need to think about what sort of hp you want, what support systems you have or will get, what sort of money you want to spend, etc soo many variables, the problem is, what is 'perfect' for you may not be what is perfect for the next guy, also, by the sounds of your post above, I dont think you have a great grip on how turbos work - dont think I am having a go, cos I'm not. BIG hp will mean lag - no way around it - to flow well top end, means they wont flow well bottom end, its a compromise. For example the stock turbo is designed for mid range, come on boost early, but runs out up top. Big turbo will come on boost alot later, but will have top end, medium/big will have some mid range with a good top end, but still come on boost later. A really good alrounder is the HKS2530 - just ask sly33, so if you are after a turbo that comes on boost early, is responsive and gives a decent increase to top end, go something like this, or an equivelant. But remeber also, that a turbo needs support systems upgraded to show its true worth. I would recommend, as Rob77 has, that you do a search. there is a fair bit of info out there on turbos. then when you are thoroughly confused by it all, ask again, and be more specific, stuff like rwkw goal, where you want good boost to be made, how hard you want it to hit, etc and tell us what support systems you have or will be getting. Lastly, an indication of budget is a good thing too.

go on erica, you know you want to

agree 100% with VspecV, also jap ones are modular, so you can swap and change, and you know it will all fit. I started with an N1, very good power, but very loud, an apexi flap or silencer would quieten things up, but go the flap as the removable silencer is a PITA plus it kills power alot worse than the flap. The flap is very easy to adjust from in cabin which the silencer isnt. Next I went to a Nismo dual resonator, very quiet but lost power. Noise and power go hand in hand. Ended up needing to upgrade it. Lastly went to HKS super dragger. Quite noisey when you get on it, but not as bad as the N1, and a huge improvement everywhere on the nismo. the things I would recommend, get a system that is as straight as possible, bends create back pressure, get a system as large as possible, 80mm+, the bigger the better as it allows better flow and make sure all the resonators are straight through designe not angled or doing any crazy gas redirecting. Food for thought, I noticeable increase in lag, drop in power and poorer offboost performance with the quieter Nismo exhaust than with the HKS or N1 systems, but it was definately alot quieter. Lastly, I read in the book '21st century performance' by Julian Edgar, that the fat tip on the end of the tail resonator acutally has a performance gain - perhaps this is why all the Jap ones have it. I was fortuneate that I found a second hand parts shop that allowed me to try a few different systems until I got one that wasnt too loud, but flowed well. If they are agreeable, see if they have a hoist, and will let you try a couple to see which one suits you best. It is a very easy job to do, just a couple of bolts to the cat and only takes a few minutes to change them. good luck

Hopefully I will make it

Funny thread, dont ban nicknick, just rename him dickdick and let him continue - banning him just kills everyones fun:p

Bit unfortuneate they sound similar. Thanks to all that have helped, I have now got my cooler pipes redone - big thanks to Clint32.

Sorry this isnt helping you with garrett, but how much minus the turbine housing. The reason I ask is that I bought a housing from the US, it took about a week and costs less than $500, that was for a HKS GT30 housing. Also, have you tried different suppliers? perhaps approach the west coast? some one like per4manz?

With all the support systems though, it will still cost. If you are chasing around 300rwkw it can be done with an RB25 - changing the engine will only be an added cost, as you will still need all the associated support systems. If you do go down the replace engine line though, just to go a little out of left field, RIPS is running 10s in a R32 GTS4 which hasnt been hugely modified, but has a 3L conversion. He sells rebuilt 3L conversions for around 3.5K landed in aust (not sure about duty and gst), but that is a whole lot cheaper than an RB26, and will easily support over 300rwkw with much better torque due to its stoke and the extra capacity.

Got any pics there Clint? and thanks again for the help with the pipes:) cars running great.

Some guys I met in the west had a yellow 32 circuit car, it was making over 600kw (though it was detuned a bit for driveability) and kept on destroying engines until the dry sump was fitted - it was built by SST, so perhaps drop Steve SST a pm.

Good work Matt, great car

Lachlan, I think he only does adj castor rods? Does he do HICAS locks too? Hmmm, c'mon Clint, how much - you've been holding out!

Matt, I just passed it on to the guy building my sub box, hopefully it will be done by monday. My sus mods, ohlins coilovers, set only medium hard rear, pineapples and hardmount spacers for the rear cradle, whiteline swaybars, castor bushes - and I have a 1 way mech diff coming. I seriously need to do the adjustable camber thing - I might see if I can get some adjustable arms for a reasonable price, but if no luck I will do the whiteline kit thing - also want to piss off the hicas. Currently I am running some goodyear revspecs, which dont hold too well at WOT in first or second. Matt, how typical of the fairer sex, raise the spirits with expectation, just so you fall harder when they pull the carpet out from underneath;)

The thing that really gets me, and points to perhaps another problem is the fact that it didnt make much difference - 4 degrees is enough that you should have notice some result, be it either an improvement or reduction in power. Sure the cams may be dialed in from the factory, but the power curve should change.

I would need all the cam specs, when they open and close, and what lift. I would also need to know how much lift the cams have and how much the NVCS moves the cams, as it is different for Neo AFAIK. I think it would be worth throwing a timing light on your car too, just to make sure its setup right. At the end of the day though, I cant see how it wouldnt make some difference, as even moving the timing 1 deg makes a difference which dyno 2003 can pick up - remeber the software is designed for a 'perfect world' scenario, and will give an indication of possible gains and losses but cannot take into account every possible variation. I believe Warpspeed is better at me than manipulating it, I have only played with my cam timing and that is all, but yeah, I will give it a go if you can find out the specs